Saturday, September 30, 2006

A Night Out in Cusco and a Band plays


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Fashion Parade & more at the PF


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Friday Night in Cusco

Last night Elena and I went out in search of Fernando. We visited a few places where street kids hang out or are given a bed for the night. We took some missing posters with pictures of Fernando and stuck them up wherever was appropriate. It sure is a different way to see other aspects of Cusco that would not normally be seen by visitors and Elena is such a good guide.

The first place we went to was a house for children to sleep and no questions asked, and police. The guy there was very helpful but had not seen Fernando. He now has a poster and will ask the other kids to keep an eye out for him. He seemed hopwful of a good outcome.

The second place we visited is very hard to describe, and was an extremely harrowing experience. The place is for people from the countryside (el campo) who are lost in Cusco with nowhere to stay. Mostly older men. They are charged only a few centimos but get a bed for the night. When we arrived there was a political rally taking place in the courtyard. According to Elena it was a left wing rally but I'm not sure which party, could have been trying to organise a new party. Would have liked to know more but not possible in the circumstances. The speaker got loud cheers when he finished anyway.

We were then able to speak to the guy in charge who told us there was a foung boy asleep upstairs but he did not know who he was. He told us to go ahead and see for ourselves. The room upstairs was a large room with lots of bunk beds and guys occupying most of them. It was a bit scary. We could not see any boys until we were about to leave I saw movement under a mattress. It was obviously a small person. I went over and lifted up the mattress and found a foung boy maybe 10 years old staring out at me. He was absolutely terrified. He had the look of a trapped animal. I doubt I will ever forget his face. It kept me awake last night thinking about him. God knows how he came to be there but he certainly should not have been there. I was in tears leaving that boy behind. He would have been better in the PF despite what I've said about that place in the past. We spoke the the guy running the place and he promised to look out for him, but i suspect he was off to bed. He offerred us a bed for the night, as he was about to lock us in. We declined his offer.

That made me more depressed about the whole business of Fernando being lost.

We spoke to lots of other street kids, at least Elena did, and they all promised to look out for F. I will need to tell you more about Elena some time as she has quite a story about her work with street kids.

A piece of good news. We met other friends of Elena's on the street. One of these has a brother who works for Pan Americana TV news as a journalist. This is a main news channel in Peru. They have taken all F's details and will put it on national Peru news this weekend. They have his photos; ones from my blog, and also have Elena's and my name and phone numbers. So I might appear on TV news, or at least my name, though not in any circumstances I would have wanted.

Must go now. Post later all being well.

Friday, September 29, 2006

Fernando is missing

I have kept putting off doing this posting in the hope that I had better news, but no such luck.

Fernando was taken back to his mother and step father last Monday, 18 September, by the police. Its very difficult to keep informed about what happens to the children in La Policia de la Familia, as most do not have anyone to look after their interests,and the police do not seem too keen to keep us up to date. He was not moved to an orphanage as I had previously been told.

His parents live in a place called San Salvador, which is a small town or large village about an hours bus journey from Cusco. Elena and I travelled out there on Tuesday to visit him and bring him some clothes and toys. We did not have an address for him so had to go to the police station to find out where he lives. We met two very helpful policemen on our way there and they knew at once who we meant.

Fernando had stayed only one night with his parents and had run away the next day. Apparently he took the bus out of town and made his escape, with a little money and a radio. The police directed us to his house. We met an old lady on the way there, who turned out to be his step father's mother and she then took us to the house.

We spoke to his step father for some time. His mother was hiding from us, as she had been threatened with jail if she allowed Fernando to escape again. We learnt a lot about Fernando, which helped us put together a better picture of his life, but its not for here. His step father seemed like a decent sort from what we saw.

San Salvador is in a beautiful spot on the Rio Urubamba, which is the sacred river of the Incas, and goes up to Machu Picchu. I followed it last year for part of the way on the Inca Trail, through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu. However not much use in a sacred valley or river for a troubled young boy like Fernando. His house sits right on the bank of the river, but it gave me no joy to be on its banks this week. I will put some photos of San Salvador on here next week.

Since then Elena and I have spent a morning going round all the places she knows about where young street kids hang out or are given a place to sleep. We did not find him but did make one contact who sugested an orphanage to call. Elena phoned there on Wednesday and was told that Fernando had been picked up by the police there on the Tuesday he left home. He spent a night in the orphanage but then ran away the next day. This is in a town called Sicuani, which is half way to Puno on Lake Titicaca. He has not been seen or heard of since then, which makes it 9 days missing. It gets very cold here during the night. Needless to say I am very concerned for his well being, although at the same time i do know that he is very resourceful for a 10 year old, and knows how to survive. But still I am worried and upset.

Elena and i are going out tonight at 9 pm to go round all the places where street kids go at night and also take a picture of him to show to other street kids. However I somehow dont think we will find him. I suspect he may have made his way to Lima, where he did show up last time he was missing for so long.

The police in Cusco where he had spent 3 weeks did not get a report of his disappearnace until last Friday, 4 days later. They told us that they would not be reporting his disappearance to Lima police as he had escaped and was not considered to be missing as such. They seem to draw a distincion between kids who "esacape" and those who go missing without any previous history. How they can be so casual about it is beyond me. And I'm being circumspect with my words, t osay the least.

Elena is doing everything she can to track him down and checking with all her contacts. We will need to report to Lima Police ourseleves I reckon.

So thats the story of Fernando to date, at least as much as I want t osay on here. Keep your fingers crossed that he turns up over the weekend. I miss him a lot. he gives me sleepless nights. I just hope he is found safe and well and that I see him again before I leave here.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

Graffiti

Last weekend a great piece of graffiti appeared on the wall in La Policia de la Familia. Roughly translated it said "fight the system which is oppressing us".

It gave me a wee boost to say the least. I kept looking for some sign of hope and resistance and thats the first I have seen.

The boy whom I think did it is a 15 year old called Brian. I only saw him for one night as he was away next day before I arrived. I would have liked to have talked to him some more, but at least I know now that there is some cause for hope for the future. He was also very artistic and was doing a lot of drawing and such like with the younger ones. Will put a picture of his graffiti on here soon, all being well.

Saw my first political rally a couple of days ago. Unfortunately was in a taxi at the time so did not get to listen. I think it was a rally for the Party for Peru, which as far as I can make out is a socialist party. I will have to try to find out more, but am not allowed to become involved in any political stuff. But no harm in asking.

Went out last night to a couple of bars near Plaza de Armas. The second place we went to was called Mandela's and had a great local band playing. Didn't get their name but will be going back to see them again and will buy a cd or two off them.Took some photos for my blog. Gotta go now, visit the PF before lunch, then a quiet afternoon taking in the sun and strolling round this beautiful city. Might even visit a church see how they are doing.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

A Fashion Parade & Snap in Santiago Cop Shop

Its Saturday morning and another beautiful day in Cusco. Very hot. Been to Molina Mercado which is not far from our house. Now at the college to update my blog. Lunch will be served at 13.00. Great. Wonder what Juanita has prepared for us today and tonight. Its a hard life. Juanita was trained by a top French chef and she sure knows her onions from her turnips.

Its been another busy week down at the Policia de la Familia, which is situated in Santiago suburb of Cusco, and not exactly the most appealing of locations. You would not want to buy a house there. Having said that I wonder about the streets there looking for food and stuff and feel safe enough. Would not do that at night and I always pick up a taxi outside the PF if I'ts after dark when I leave.

Claudia, my Spanish teacher donated a big bag of clothes for the girls at the PF. There were 4 teenage girls there last week and most of this. Three of them have run away from an orphanage they did not like, and have ended up in the PF. They are very independent minded girls, but even so they need more support than they get. Elena is now trying to provide some for them. They call themselves "Los Gatos" for some reason. They are all very artistic. They were in an art class run by Elena last year and were doing well. If you are lucky you might see some of the drawings they have done for me when I get back. One of them, July, wants to go to art college. Lets hope she makes it, though things do not look exactly promising right now on that front.

Rowena and I took the clothes up there on Monday. Neither of the two women who look after them was working and the kids were locked up on there own. The girls and 2 younger boys. All the rest were away at court or something. The girls were delighted withe their clothes and insisted on trying them on. I discreetly turned my back so they could do so and played card games with the two boys.

I have never seen some second hand clothes bring so much delight. They paraded round their small room, showing off their new gear to each other and us, and insisted on having their photos taken. I hope to get a couple on here next week. Its nice to spread a little joy and happinesss in the world, even if reality soon crashes down on them again. They all wrote very touching letters of thanks to Claudia, telling her how much her act of kindness meant to them. One girl had her 15th birthday a few days before and had had no presents as far as I could tell, so Claudia's stuff meant even more to her.

A couple days later I arrived at the PF to find Elizaban all on his own, and locked out of their two rooms. Apparently all the others had to go to court or some such and there was no-one to look after him so he was left to wonder about on the landing and in police room on that floor. As soon as I arrived he came rushing up to me and was so pleased to see me, but there was nowhere for us to go as the room was locked and no key could be found. So we ended up sitting on the stairs playing with some flash cards I had brought along. Its unbelievable how much use I,ve had out of these flash cards, yo ucan do lots with them. We ended up learning the numbers in English and he was making good progress, sitting there on the stair.

We were interrupted by the arrival of another young boy aged 8, who was brought in by the police and more or less abandoned with me, with little or no explanation. I think they just assumed I would know what was going on, which I do now to some extent, but a little more of a "do you mind awfully taking this young chap too" would not have gone amiss.

Anyway what does one do sitting there on the stair in santiago Police station with thes two young guys to keep occupied, especially as we soon exhausted my Spanish. The second boy was a Quecha boy and so different.

Fortunately I had my other pack of cards with me and I explained the intricacies of the game of snap to them. They are bright lads and soon picked up all the rules and proceeded to have a very competitive game with me dishing out the cards and acting as referee. I didnt want this game to lead to an outbreak of civil war. We continued to do that, with police men and women passing us on the stairs and stepping round our cards as if it was a daily occurrence. Eventually Gabriella arrived with keys and rescued us all.

And depite the unusual circumstances I really enjoyed it and the boys thought it was great fun, giving the cops hard looks for stepping on the cards etc. Its certainly a great way to win their confidence and get to know them. But most of these boys are in and out in a few days so its quite hard really. I often wonder what becomes of them all. I dont suppose I will ever know, but I think most of them will remember the short time they knew me for. Least I like to think so.

Will be going with Elena to see Fernando on Tuesday. He lives in a place called San Salvador, about an hour away by bus.

Friday, September 22, 2006

Vladimir & Denis

Working at Colibri is great fun. The boys are boisterous and the girls sometimes moody, but all so very friendly. They all give me a hug and a the girls give a wee kiss on the cheek, which is nice. Personal space is not a concept that the Peruvians seem to have any truck with, and it took me a few days to get used to the fact that all the women expect a cheek to cheek greeting. Am getting better at it now, but its not something that comes naturally to us from the UK, except maybe in families.

Denis and Vladimir (yes I know, and he even looks like him, just a wee beard and he's there)are two brothers who come to the class regularly. Denis is about 8 and Vladimir is about 11,and looks out for his brother so well. They are both quite bright boys, if a bit unruly at times. Denis was wearing a complete new outfit last night and looking very smart.

When I left last night they left with me and walked down from Colibri, down Calle Suecia to Plaza de Armas with me, on their way home. It just feels so good to have that level of acceptance in a totally new culture. We were able to chat a little about where they live and what their plans were for next day, which is a special children's holiday here. I was invited by all the kids to join their school outing to Pisac but unfortunately I could not accept as I'm otherwise engaged, which was a real shame as I would have loved to have gone with them. Lolita could not go either, as they did not tell us about it till too late.

I feel more at home here evry day. The pub and restaurant owners in Calle Suecia see me passing twice a day on my way to and from Colibri. Some of them like to chat and they know what I do here and ask me how its going. There are lots of street traders on my route too and an old lady who walks about with her llama and asks meto take photos; at a price of course.

Its 9 am and I have to go and get some money changed as I ran out last night. Elena, the volunteer co-ordinator and I are off to visit an orphanage where Fernando spent 4 years to try and find out more about his background. Thelady who runs the orphanage knows him well and is fond of him.

The police have not been very helpful and have not kept any of their promises to keep us informed. Elena had to go to the court to get more information and fortunately met a decent woman there who told her about the orphanage and gave her the contact there.

More later and a fashion parade at the PF as well as playing snap on the stairs in the police station.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

A Reiki Experience

This is strange but true. I had been feeling a bit unwell over last weekend (nothing serious, just a bit of a cold) but was well enough to carry on as usual. I'd just finished my Spanish class and was heading out for some Peruvian sun before it set for the day and I headed off to Colibri.

Who should I bump into but Stephanie, whom I've not mentioned before, but who is a really nice friendly lassie from Australia via Germany. She speaks excellent Aussie English with a German accent. Most endearing. Anyway I'd spoken to her a couple of times previously at the College and I liked her a lot.

On this particular occasion we did literally bump into each other at the bottom of the stairs. After exchanging the usual pleasantries she looked at me a bit funny as it were, and asked if I was ok. I explained about feeling a bit off colour over he weekend but was getting better and should be ok tomorrow. She asked if I'd tried any alterntive medicine, which I have not, other than a few pints of beer over the years and the occasional alternative substance.

Well anyway its turns out that Stephanie is a qualified reiki practioner, amongst other things. She said that she could feel I was unwell because of the powerful force she was getting from me. I kid you not. Not wishing to upset my new friend I continued with our conversation as if nothing unusual had been said. She was very insisitent that she could feel these forces or vibes or whatever they are called, and that she was concerned for my well being, and indeed she did look quite worried.

We continued to talk about reiki and other things and she told me that she would feel bad if she did not offer to do some reiki massage to alleviate my situation, and well one thing lead to another and I agreed to have some reiki massage. This you have to understand was as much so as not to upset Stephanie as anything else. i told her that I was a total sceptic and aethiestic to boot. This didnt seem to maater too much as reiki works whether or not you are a believer. Which seems like the best of both worlds. Just like a justified sinner.Perhaps.

So there we were at the end of this corridor in college in Cusco, behind a noticeboard and mostly out of sight. Reiki does not require any undressing. Its all to do with powerful life forces which need to be controlled and redirected somehow. If you want to know how it works you will probably have to study it for a few years, but if you do not have the time you could google it.

This I must say was a most odd experience, and I remain sceptical, though maybe not quite as sceptical as before. It all lasted about 20 minutes and mostly involved her moving her hand in a massage like way just in front of my chest. She claimed to feel all sorts of forces moving about and leaving me through her. I seemed to give har a bad headache at one stage.

Afterwards I felt kind of light headed but this is probably due to the unlikeliness of it all. We remain friends and have spoken couple of times since and are even considering a repeat performance in more appropriate circumstances.

I need to go home now. Just back from Colibri where things continue to go well.

Tomorrow Elena and I are going to meet some one who knows more about Fernando and hopefully Elena and I will get to see him next week. More at weekend when things are clearer.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Bing & Walt

Question: What's the difference between Bing Crosby and Walt Disney?
Answer:Bing sings and Walt disnae.

Have just finished reading "Night Song of the Last Tram" by Robert Douglas. Highly recommendable, very funny, laugh out loud in parts, and also incredibly sad, but inspiring. A must read I would say.

Thats all the bedtime reading I took so now onto S. America, Julia Alverez to be precise.

Must go,will tell you about my reiki experience next time round.

ps Fernando moved to an orphanage today, hope to arrange to see him there this week, more later.

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Colibri more

Sorry about that but got called away rather abruptly this morning. So post was not checked for mistakes etc, but still makes sense.

Am just on my way to PF and called in at Maximo Nivel to check the results. Oh dear me got that one wrong, but never mind its early days yet. And anyway Hibs won.

Teaching at Colibri is great experience and very enjoyable, especially with such great kids who obviously want to learn. Having said that they are not an easy bunch to control but we get there ok. Lolita is good with them and I get lots of ideas from her. I generally help the boys at the back of the room. Why do boys always sit at the back? But more and more the girls are asking me to correct and help with their work so thats really nice.

Lolita teaches them "to have" minus the "h" so its you 'ave and 'ow are you etc? The kids might think I've given them a new verb when I start teaching on my own. Its a bit like that French Resistance comedy set in a cafe, can't remember the name, but I'm sure you will know the one. She is going to teach French in Puerto Maldonado in a couple of weeks, which was my strart off point for the rainforest last year. I dont know what the demand for French is in the rainforest but there must be some.

PF last night was its usual busy Saturday night.18 altogether, including 5 under age of 11. I brought them bread rolls, apples and chocolate, all which went down well. They also had rice pudding like stuff for their meal. Cooked in that kitchen I told you about. My cooker has arrived but not been fitted in yet, maybe tomorrow.

Because the older boys were hogging the table we had to play our games on the floor. When Fernando saw me sit down he immediately went for a blanket off one of the beds for me to sit on. He made it into a cushion for me and stuck it under me. I was impressed to say the least.

The teenage boys then decided they wanted to join in and came and joined the rest on the floor. They even squeeze in and want to sit beside me. So was very pleased with that too. They seem to trust me more and more as time goes by and know that I'm not just there for a day or two. Though having said that leaving will be hard.

One of the new young ones who arrived last night, Abel, can't read or write his name either so joined in when I was doing the alphabet with F. Two of the older girls have promised to do the alphabet and their names with them this morning, so will be interesting to see what transpired. It may be that F only does it for me because he likes me so much and might not do it for anyone else. I had missed a day on Friday and he practically squeezed me to death when I walked in last night. I really hope he finds a place soon, either with his mum or a suitable placement. I'm going to suggest to Maximo Nivel that we try to find him a permanent volunteer for when I leave.

Colibri

Colibri is a community centre, which was set up by Cusco police to offer street children a place to go after school and when their parents are at work. They are not children who are homeless but whose parents work on the street selling stuff in markets and who sometimes have to help their parents. There may be other children attending in other circumsatnces that I'm not yet aware of.

The centre is not far from Plaza de Armas, up a very steep street called Suecia and then up two sets of steep steps. By the time I get there I'm exhausted with the effort.

It consists of two rooms in a very old building. The rooms do not appear to be used for any other purpose, which is not surprising as there is no water or toilet facilities. Very basic indeed. The place is locked up when we arrive and we have to open up. By that time there are usually a number of children waiting for it to open. I usually go there from 5pm to 7pm, which is too long without a loo break. I have to go down the hill to a small internet cafe, whose owner doesn't seem to mind letting us use his facilities, as its Colibri. At least I don't think he minds.

The front room of the centre is used as a play area for those kids not in the English class. The backroom is set up as any other classroom, though quite small. It has desks for all and a white board. It is a bit cold though, as there is no heating. We have managed to take possession of a small heater which helps.

The teacher is called Lolita and is French. She is a good teacher and gets on well with the kids. The fact that she is also reasonably fluent in Spanish is a help. She leaves in two weeks time and I believe the plan is that I take over till the new paid teacher arrives, some time in my last two weeks. Which is quite exciting.

The children are very friendly and bright. Very different from those in PF. Ithinkj they have taked to me ok. They call me Professor Don, or just Professor or even Prof. They also call me this when they see me in the street, which is quite strange, but satisfying. They call me Don too, as Lolita thought this would be ok and would not lead to confusion.

I'm still learning all their names, but its name like Javier, Julio, Abel and Miguelangelo. We also have a William and even an Elvis. The girls' names are harder as they tend to sit at the front and Lolita works with them, but am working on it.

They seem to have made good progress in English being as they have only been learning for 6 months, and they seem keen to learn too.

I really enjoy being with them. Gotta go now.

Saturday, September 16, 2006

Chicha Morada

Juanita made some chicha morada for us at the house yesterday and it was delicious. If you want to know more about chicha morada you can google it or check wikipedia. But it is an Andean drink, with a small alcohol content I believe. And no Juanita did not have to chew any leaves or plants or anything else. Juanita is a great cook.

I,ve now managed to post some photos on to my blog. Hope you all like them or at least some of them. Sorry there are so many but I was on a run this morning so decided to keep going. For those of you at work and viewing this maybe best not to spend too much time on my photees whilst keyed in. Would not want you all on a disciplinary now would we? If you hover over a pic you will see the title and if you click you will get an enlarged view. Enjoy.

The pizza party was great. It was good to see the young ones enjoy it; even for the few minutes it lasted. I will always remember that night.

Got to go now. Will definitely post about Colibri tomorrow, as its Sunday and all I'm doing is visiting the kids at PF.

Big day for Man U tomorrow, but should be ok with Rooney back and Arsenal not the force they were of course.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Jesus Loves Me

Its been a very busy week at La Policia de la Familia (PF). This is Friday at 6.00 pm and first chance I've had to post an entry. Have to be home for my dinner soon.

On Monday I went with Gabriella and a couple of the kids to pick up their dinner from what can only be described as a soup kichen. Its way up in hills above Cusco and the view is awesome, but the circumstances a bit grim. We were taken in a Peru Policia, Range Rover, with two police men up front doing the driving and navigating. They were playing REM on their cd player. It was a wierd experience listening to "Losing My Religion" up there and in those circumstances. Apparently this is a daily occurrence. Not REM but the soup kitchen run. The kids have to carry a big huge pot (prais mhor) and have t queue to get it filled up.

We had 25 kids in there on Monday and about the same on Tuesday night. The police picked up a group of school kids who appeared not to be doing anything more then skipping school and visiting an internet cafe. About 8 or 10 of them in their school uniforms still. They looked a bit lost and bewildered. They were then kept there overnight for what would appear to be punishment. Enough said.

By Wednesday night we were down to 16 kids. This included three 8 year olds and two 10 year olds. Can you imagine what it must feel like to seem abondoned at such an age. There were also lots of older kids, more street wise but still kids. Gabriella is so good with them and she seems able to win their respect very quickly, which makes things so much easier. She is always in her own clothes which does help.

Anyway we decided to put on a pizza party for them on Wednesday night. I went up there about 7.30 and we ordered pizza from Pizza Express home delivery service ( not the one in Morningside Road) and took in coca cola and chocalate for afters. The kids loved it even though we had no plates for them. They enjoyed eating from their hands, which are needless to say, not exactly spotless. Have some pics which might get on here eventually.

Afterwards we just sat and let them play for a bit. The young ones all crave affection and want to hold on to me all the time. Fernando does not like competition for me. The other 10 year old who was there is called Jesus, and he just spent the rest of the night holding on to me and wanting cuddles. After some time he whispered in my ear "I Love you Donald" in Spanish, of course. And I think he meant it with all his heart, even if only for that moment. I tried not to make too much of his comment but I was close to tears. As luck woud have it Claudia had just covered that verb on the same day in my Spanish class, otherwise I would not have known what he had said, as its not obvious from the verb itself, unless you know the expression of course.

So now I know for sure, and in real life that "Jesus loves me". I dont think its exactly what Rev Macaulay and co had in mind, but it feels a lot better and feels more real.

Soon after that Gabriella sent them all to bed. The boys in one room, 8 year olds and grown teenagers in one room, with no light or windows and the girls in the main room, with Fernando.

Latest on Fernando: he punched the judge last week and judge told cops not to bring him back. Apparently he does not like being hit. Fernando has lots of spirit, just a shame he can't direct it so well. Or maybe he does.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

A hot day in Cusco

Its Sunday afternoon and I'v just walked from the house to the college. Very hot here today. Am glad I'm not doing the Inca Trail this year; I dont think I could manage it. In fact I wonder how on earth I coped last year.

First of all today apologies to Khue for spelling her name wrong, even though I knew the correct spelling. I just wrote it as its pronounced, so now you all know a little Vietnamese. Khue's dad was one of the "boatpeople" and its a hell of a story she tells about his experiences. She joined him in USA along with rest of the family when she was 12 and she now lives in Seattle. She is a real nice person and has been a pleasure to get to know. She lives in Seattle, which funnily enough is one of the few cities in USA that I've been to. Khue is volunteering in an orphanage in Cusco.

Before Khue and I went out last night we decided to take some food the the kids at Policia de la Familia. When we got there the boys had been joined by two girls, a 7 year old and a teenager. There was some kind of panic on so we agreed to stay with the children so that Gabriella could go out for an hour to do some stuff some place. Khue spent the hour with the wee girl on her lap, comforting her, as she cried for her mammy constantly. The other girl cried too and was looking for comforting. One of the older boys was very good to her and she got by. The food was devoured with gusto. Fernando was ok and tried to sleep, which is a bit difficult with all the commotion and broken windows. Gabriella eventually returned and we left. The kids were all then allowed to go down stairs to the reception area and watch TV. We were so tired we had to give up on going anywhere and went home.

This morning I took some food up for them at 10.00 am. This is not expensive. I bought bread for all of them, which is very different and much better than the stuff one buys in Edinburgh best shops, yoghurts and apples, all for 7 soles , which is about $2.00 or a quid. So it hardly makes much difference to my finances if I take them some grub every day, especially as I,m so well fed at home. The food is greatly appreciated by the kids, especially those teenagers, they pounce on me when I get in, but can be made to take it easy and conduct themselves in an orderly british queue kind of way.

Of course I immediately realised that Fernando was not around as he usually jumps all over me. He had done a runner earlier in the morning and who can blame him. Gd knows what goes on in that head of his. I wont say much about it except that he was "captured" and brought back not long after. Poor chap didnt have the savvy to go much distance from the police station or maybe he was too frightened to. Needless to say he was in a seriusly distressed condition and hiting out in his anger. I wont go into the details its all too much. He eventually calmed down and had his bread and yoghurt and gave me a big cuddle. He listened to some beatles musica and was quite calm and content by the time I left at midday. The police had brought a TV to the room for them to watch and he was enjoying cartoons. I left him being looked after by Francisco who is a bit older and more sensitive than the ther boys who can be a bit cruel sometimes, though unknowingly I think. Francisco wrote out some poems which he was copying from a book and gave to me. Will have to ask Claudia to translate the bits that I cant, which is most of it.

Today we had beef stew for lunch, with yuca, zapallo, zamaoria and repollo. Huge serving and then we have dinner later. We hepe to go to a bar/restaurant with folk music tonight, if we can get in without buying a meal.

Chao

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Alpaca stew, salsa & pizza party and a break-in

Isn't life exciting. Last night we had alpaca stew for dinner and it was most delicious. Just like the stews my mother used to make. Then I went to Colibri and helped to teach about 15 kids some English. Only one class last night because of a festival of some sort here in Cusco. I then helped to distribute powdered milk to all these kids from Colibri and more. That says enough about their lives, but I have to give credit to the police who organise it all. Children are very welcoming and friendly.

Went home to change and then off to a salsa and pizza party. Salsa dancing is most popular hereabouts and everyone seems to do it so well. But you can imagine my surprise when the party started with "Paint it Black" and "Oh Carol". But that didnt last too long. Maybe dj was making me feel at home.

This morning I woke up to discover we had a break - in overnight. Wont bore you with the details. They only stole from the kitchen, and dining room. Microwave, fridgefreezer and TV gone. Nobody heard them which probably as well. Security is being increased with a security man all night from tonight.

This morning I was at the Policia de la Familia for 2 hours. I was shown into the locked room and left there with 6 boys aged from 10 to 17. Gabriella was held up some where, and had not turned up by time I left at 12. One of the boys spoke a little English so with my pigeon Spanish we got by. Spend about an hour teaching Fernando the Spanish alphabet, for which I had bought a nice coloured chart. The other boys were happy to entertain themselves and help out with Fernando's alphabet. He can almost write his name now. Even the few times I've been helping him seems to have benefited the wee chap. I had some face paints so the older boys had fun with that. Dont know what the 4 new ones were in for, but police were back and forth a couple times asking stuff and took one away for a while.

I was with then for over 2 hours. Room was locked all the time. No food or water was provided in that time apart from the biscuits I took in. Four of them had no shoes to wear. Wanted me to buy them shoes, which I would have done had Gabriella been around. Maybe next time it will be possible.

Fernando was into "Yellow Submarine" today. He is able to shout out Yellow Submarine along with the boys and its one of the funniest things I have heard in a long time; but it makes him so happy and puts a big sunny smile on his face, its all just so sad and happy at the same time its hard to know what to say. Except the 50 quid for my mp3 player was money well spent.

I left them at 12, not because I had to, but it was all just a little too much and when your language runs out it is all too frustrating. I banged the door and a ploice woman came to let me out and let F go for a pee. As I left 3 boys pleading for shoes and telling me how little they cost.

Must go now, going out tonight with Kway all being well. She is away river rafting just now, the brave girl.

I see Man U not letting me down in my absence. XXXX

Thursday, September 07, 2006

La Policia de la Familia

It's Thursday already and so much has happened this week its hard to know where to start. So at the beginning is always best. Monday morning and Kway (another new volunteer) from USA, via Vietnam, and I were given our induction and an introduction to our various placements. She to an orphanange and me to La Policia de la Familia, more of which shortly, and Colibri. Our induction was done by Elena, who is the volunteer co-ordinator here. Like everyone else I have met here she is absolutely brilliant and can't do enough to help.

My Spanish classes began at 2 pm on Monday and will continue for 2 hours a day for 2 weeks. My teacher is called Claudia and comes from Uruguay, which means I have now had a Mexican, an Argentinian and a Urquayan attempting to get me to learn Spanish. I am the only student in the class, which is nice. Claudia is very patient with me but has been bad today by given me homework to do. She is a brilliant teacher, its just a shame that I am not as good a student as she is a teacher. Have to be nice about her as she will be reading this blog soon.

My first placement was on Tuesday morning and quite frankly is almost beyond words. Its called La Policia de la Familia (Family Police, for want of any better translation). There does not seem to be a Social Work type of department, so the police are left with a lot of duties which I think are done by Social Workers elsewhere, but I dont really know enough about it to comment.

It consists of two small rooms above Santiago Police Station, in Cusco, which are as grim and disgusting as anything you can imagine. To have adults living in them would be a crime but to subject children to these conditions is atrocious. There is supposed to be a room for boys and a room for girls but most of the time they seem to be all mixed in together. The rooms are very small and have bunk beds and some single beds provided, but some times not enough beds for all the children who end up here, so they have to share. Bedding is minimal. One of the rooms has a large window with no windowpane. God knows how anyone can sleep in there. There is a shower in one room which does not work but constantly leaks, so that the children have to clean up about 6 inches of dirty water every day to stop the smell from over-powering everybody. It is just appalling. There is a filthy kitchen with a 2 ring gas cooker which should have been thrown out a long time ago. For food they seem to rely on charity, as police don't see it as part of their job to feed them. I might say more about this place another time. I have to be take care not to say too much I guess.

There are so many good people that I've met I'm sure the State will soon catch up with them and get round to putting these things right. Well we can but hope. Just about the only good thing about all this is that Maximo Nivel have done so much for the children at Policia de le Familia. They have been providing volunteers for some time and have put in a working toilet and shower. I got so upset today that I paid for a new cooker, only 50 soles but it will make a little difference.

Anyway to this hell hole the police bring any children from off the streets who may or may not have committed a criminal offence. Some times they are just abandoned children or some how no longer in touch with their parents, or runaways. They are kept here until the police can re-unite them with parents or till a court decides what to do with them, usually an orphanage or if they are lucky good foster parents. They can be here for a day or a month or more, and are all ages.

When I arrived there at 8.30 Tuesday morning a wee boy aged 10 called Fernando was in his bare feet in a few inches of water cleaning out the dirty water from the broken shower room. He is a sweet little boy who has had very,very bad things done to him and who now behaves in challenging ways himself. One orphanage has refused to have him but whats worse refused to his face. I played some games him and the other children, and they just love a little attention.

In all this squalor they are looked after by Gabriella and Jenny. I have not yet met Jenny but if she is anything as good as Gabriella she will be wonderful. Gabriella is just so loving and caring about these children it brings tears to ones eyes. I think it is very hard for her sometimes to have to cope with it all. There were 2 teenage girls and a 10 year old girl there on Tuesday along with the 2 boys. Gabriella put on some music and had these girls up dancing with her to cheer them up and help thing about better times coming. Gabriella is a brilliant dancer ( Brad would love her) and she had these girls laughing and smiling and if only for a few minutes they could forget what was happening to their lives. I will never forget those few minutes, just awesome.

Then we had a visit from two priests. They seemed like very nice boys, but then they started to do what all priests seem to have to do. Quite frankly I found it somewhat repellent behaviour. They conducted a service (mass I assume, but no takers for holy communion) which lasted best part of an hour. As an old man said "its the heart of a heartless world and the sigh of the oppressed etc". Apologies for not getting that right if I didnt. But I never thought I would have to come to Peru to see it all come together. If only the priests had brought a plumber or paid for one instead of taking advantage of these poor children who are so vulnerable anyway. Enough about religion. At least for now.

This posting is rambling now and I've hardly begun. Not told you about taking Ferando out today with Gabriella and Rowena who is another lovely person I've had the pleasure of meeting. We took him to a park and on way out we met a llamma. Unfortunately the llamma chased Gabriella and Rowena into the loos and Fernando out the gate. The llamma followed right out the gate and onto Ave del Sol. We took a taxi and made our escape. Went to an ice cream cafe and Ferando listened to my mp3 player which just happened to be on Bob singing Step it out and Go. The wee fellow loved it and just wanted it repeated. I'm sure NJ and CA will appreciate the wierd way things work out. Who would have thought that 40 or more years after you brought Bob back from Edinburgh on that old reel to reel tape I would be playing it all again on some thing called an mp3 player for a wee boy in Cusco. Amazing.

Lots more to tell you about but no time meantime. Maybe at week end will have time to tell you about Colibri, which is equally inspiring but in a different way. So many people to tell you about too. Just not enough time. I'm just so glad that there are good people like those who run Maximo Nivel in the world and that I've had the good fortune to get to know them. I hope I can be of some help, and I hope I've not said too much here. Till next time xxx

Sunday, September 03, 2006

A NEW HOME

Moved this morning to my new home. Its like a small hotel. I can hardly believe my luck. Just didn,t expect such high class accommodation. I have my own room, lovely bathroom and use of lounge with tv and books etc. We have our own private courtyard where we can lounge in the sun all day. Everything is provided for us, including 3 meals a day and all our washing done for us. Which means of course I took way too much stuff. Its a short 20 minute walk from the centre or dos nueve soles by taxi. 3.18 nueve sols to the $, seeing as you ask.

The weather is scorching during the day but a bit colder after sunset, which is about 7 pm. The locals think its cold but to me its just a beautiful warm evening. Did a wee self guided tour of bits of Cusco off the usual tourist bits and finished the afternon in a cafe lookng down on Plaza de Armas, when these 3 Argentinian women walked in and started playing their musical instruments and singing for me, and ok one or two others too. I got talking to an Israeli guy in the Plaza, he was on his S. American tour, and heading off for Buenas Aires. Didnt like to ask his views on Palestine or Lebanon, but he seemed like a nice guy anyway.

The kids all try to sell you postcards and like to chat to you. I got talking to some French girls too, just like some one else of my acquaintance. They were being harassed by the kids so went to their rescue. Actually the cops here keep a good eye out for stuff and just blow a whistle to grap folks attention, usually bad drivres or kids trying to make a living. Very high tech with their whistles.

Can hardly believe how many folk I've spoken to since I came her even despite my lack of local lingo. I speak to more here in one day than I do in a month of Sundays in Edinburgh. Amazing. Maybe I should stay.

Its Sunday afternoon and have been chatting to some teachers in the internet room. Two from USA and one from S. Africa. Have an early start tomorrow for an induction at 8 am. You tend to go to bed a lot earlier here and get up about 6 as its so nice to be up and about.

Hopefully will know all about my placement tomorrow.

Saturday, September 02, 2006

A BEAUTIFUL DAY IN CUSCO

Its Saturday morning and am sitting in the internet room at the College I will be attending. I will have free use of this computer room for the six weeks I'm here, and its open 8 to 8 everyday. So no excuse for not keeping this up to date I hear you say. It is a bit harder as its all in Spanish and I can't seem to get Blogger with English instructions at all, even though I can get Google in English. But it will all help with my Spanish, so thats ok. Have been using my "poco Espanol" already and its amazing how much has been retained by my old brain. Start my lessons on Monday with a test of my level of knowledge so far and they will then know which class to place me in.

Flight over the Atlantic was uneventful. I slept most of the way, listened to Modern Times on my nice new MP3 player, which was a very sensible purchase indeed. Most exciting thing that happened was at our refuel stop in Bonnaire, where I got talking to a bunch on new agers from Denny and Falkirk who are on there way to Machu Picchu to look for a shaman they heard about. Hope they find him though I think it unlikely but didnt want to spoil there fun by telling them so.

It took an hour and a half to get though immigration at Lima and was a bit worried my pick up driver would not wait. But he did of course and my luggage arrived along with me which was a bonus. Driver spoke English a bit and couple who run hotel both spoke it so had a chat with them till I went to bed at 10. Slept all night. Hotel was excellent. An large old Spanish colonial house whch they converted beautifully. Very close to the Pacific Ocean. Took a walk along its shore on Friday morning. It reminded me if walking along the Broad Bay shore. Funny how the sea sounds the same wherever you hear it. I got nostalgic for a bit along the shore.

The flight from Lima to Cusco was absoutely incredibly amazing. Everyone should come over just for the experience of flying over the Andes and then flying through them to land at Cusco. I took a window seat, which I dont normally do, and it was so worth it. Brand new plane Airbus A-320, so knew pilot would be careful. The sky was practically cloudfree. Took some pics which may be on here eventually. South Americans give a round of applause when plane lands safely, did so in Lima and in Cusco. I could see the point in Cusco, but they could have been applauding the Andes as well as the crew.

I was met at Cusco airport by Jonathan who works and studies English at the college. Took me to the college to meet the main folk here and got some idea as to what my volunteering will involve but will leave that for another posting. He showed me around the building and dropped me off at the Savoy Hotel. He will pick me up tomorrow morning to move me to my permanent home for next 6 weeks. More of that later.

Am very excited to be here and all the planning and time spent on my TEFL course and Spanish evening class have proved to be time well spent indeed.