Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Sunday, November 09, 2008

Highway 61 Revisited

Best cure for the blues is a few hours of Bob, and what better than this old favourite. How many times has this saved your sanity then?

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Last day in Lima

It's now Wednesday and I fly back tomorrow. I will be very sad to leave here but I guess I must go back sometime, and before my money runs out.

I've had a great time here in Lima. I've stayed in two differnt flats which were both exceptional. And I managed to get a special price because the company mixed up my booking.

I've met lots of people here. My pal Ervin is a chef and comes round to cook for me sometimes. He makes excellent chicha morada.

I have to go now. I will put some more pics on of my time in Lima once I get home.

Chau from Peru.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

El beso de la mujer arana.

Those of you who speak Spanish, and there are a few, will know thats the Spanish for Kiss of the Spider Woman. I saw the movie and read the book years ago. Both memorable.

We went to see a theatre production in Spanish, here in Lima. Because I knew the book and film it was not dificult for me to understand. I probably followed 80% of it. A brilliant production. The theatre is a bit like the Traverse, except better. We were very near the front. Third row in fact.

Both actors turned in fine performances, and the guy who played Molina, the William Hurt character, was exceptional. Better than Hurt I thought.

Another memorable night in Lima.

Must go now, meeting someone shortly. The Peruvians are always late, but I mustn't follow their example.

Mamma Mia

This posting is specially for you Chris. Hope you are still reading my blog. Not many entries recently as I've not had much chance to and don't have daily access to internet as I have in Cusco.

I went to see Mamma Mia in Lima last week end and enjoyed every minute of it. The Limenos know all the songs. We had a great night.

So you will be glad to hear Chris that you won't have to accompany me to see it in Edinburgh. No Tarantinoesque blood and gore, of course.

For a nights entertainment its definitely worth it. Great music and some laughs.

Friday, October 17, 2008

The last day

Wednesday was my last day at Elim. I was very sad to be leaving there, but the boys made it a memorable day for me. One of those special days that come along every now and then.

The prevous day Heber had been showing me his newly discovered musical abilities, which then lead to a few boys joining in in an impromtu session. How do you spell such a big word? I've seen lots of music sessions in my days, some of you may even have been with me, but none could touch this one. I managed to video it and brought along a DVD copy the next day. It lasts about an hour, and they were thrilled with it.

I was so pleased to see Heber being allowed to develop his talents. I never knew he had such musical gifts and I'm sure he didn't either. So all thanks to Elim for that, and especially Hilario who teaches them all to play.

And so to my last day. The boys must have realised I was impressed with their musical talents, so they decided to put on a special wee concert for me. Only this time Hilario was with them to keep things together. They were all dressed up in their traditional costumes.

Heber started it all off by making a wee speech to thank me for being with them. I had to fight back the tears, I can tell you. Then they played for about 20 minutes and two of the boys sang a couple of songs. I will never forget them. Its on video for those of you who want to see it. They are very talented boys.

Heber finished it off by presenting me with a model ship in a bottle which he had built for me. The boys build these to raise funds for the orphanage. I've told him it will have pride of place on my new fireplace. He's made me promise to send him a photo once I get home.

Heber will start at MN in January all being well. He's looking forward to that. I hope he keeps to his promise and stays at Elim. He needs a teacher meantime and I've given Jeremy a couple of suggestions, as to who might help.

So that was my last day with the boys at Elim. I've probably forgotten lots of things I meant to say. I've promised to come back. Lets hope I'm up to it.

Dany moves on

Dany came to meet me on Sunday. He's agreed to move into Elim and he will come with me on Wednesday which will also be my last day there as I'm leaving Cusco on Thursday. Its all too much for my lungs up here in the sky. My doctor has suggested I give myself a break down at sea level, and who am I to argue.

I had a good time with Dany on Sunday. He met me at MN and he was able to use the internet to download some fotos I had of him and his pal Antony. All the kids here, or lots of them that I know use a site called Hi5, which is a Facebook type thingee.

He was able to meet my new pal Kathy, who is a nice young Canadian lady of my acquaintance. Thanks Kathy, and of course you are a young thing. Kathy took us to an ice cream shop. Which he loved.

Him and I then went to the market where I treated him to some clothes and shoes. We met my pal Miller and had some chicken, at a place near the stadium. After which I got him back to his night shelter. I really hope he settles in at Elim. With any luck Kathy might visit him.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Avenida Liverdad



Elim orphanage is at the top of this street. Its a bit like Milking Hill used to be in my young days, for those of you who remember it, which won't be many. Taxis do take me up, otherwise I doubt if my lungs would cope with the stress.

My Flock

Heber & Edison

Heber the Musician & Scotsman


Thursday, October 09, 2008

National Strike Day




Tuesday was a national strike day against the president Alan Garcia, who is not too popular in these parts. There were lots of demonstrations and a rally in the Plaza de Armas.

A whole wall was covered with these posters in English, as well as lots of cartoons. Maybe Garcia doesn't speak Spanish. The language is a bit rich, but there were worse, which I won't show on here.

National Strike


Monday, October 06, 2008

Heber and Robin

I've stopped working in La Policia as there are now so many volunteers working there from another organisation they really don't need me too. I'm now working a few hours a day at Elim.

Heber is still at Elim but Robin has run away yet again. Hopefully he will come back. I worry about him as he seems to have fallen in with a bad crowd. He needs lots of support but often rejects it. His story is not a happy one but its not for here.

Heber seems to have settled dowm reasonably well here but I think his brother's disappearances are bad for him, as it's destabilising. He only gets to school one day a week which is not going to allow him to catch up on all his lost education. Jeremy, who helps his mother Nilda run the orphanage says that Heber has good command of Spanish, better than Robin who uses lots of slang.

Heber tells me he wants to be a tourist guide, a dream for lots of kids here, so I've offered to pay for English lessons for him at Maximo Nivel, starting in January. Nilda has agreed to this as long as he settles down here and does not run away. Maximo have also agreed and will look at giving him a bursary if he does well in the first six months, by attending regularly and passing his tests etc. He will go for an hour every day and will have use of all their facilities. I will introduce him to some of the staff as he may need a little support from time to time.

I hope he can take up this chance. It gives him an incentive to settle down here over the next few months and do well.

Jose

What with one thing and another I've not had much time to add to my blog recently. I've bought myself a few llamas and been busy with them. I go to the llama fanks for the dipping etc. Keeps me out of trouble.

Jose phoned me at Maximo Nivel last week, having just returned to Cusco from his job in a gold mine. I met Jose at La Policia last year when he was 15. There's a photo of him there in my blog from last year. He looks a lot older now.

He came to see me at MN and I've taken him out for lunch a couple of times. Like many of the kids I've met here his life is hard, and maybe harder than most.
He has spent all this year working in a gold mine, which is two days travel from Cusco. It involves a bus journey, them 12 hours on the river in an open boat,like a motorised canoe, then another journey by bus and then walking the last bit. The mine is somewhere in the jungle between Peru and Brazil.

He goes with his father and older brother. They work all day and only get paid for the gold they manage to find, which often is none at all. They share a hut with another 8 or 9 men. They have no toilet facilities but just go into the jungle. They have to wash in the river as there are no washing facilities. He says it is ok as the water is always warm if not hot.

Needless to say he does not like it there. He says its very dangerous because of the wild animals all around and even worse the angry men with guns. He saw one of the bosses being shot dead because of an argument over being paid. He reckons a lot of the men have guns. I didn't like to ask if his father does too.

He came back to Cusco on his own and left his father and brother working in the mine. He had not found any gold for weeks so had no money to bring home. He says he's come back to help his mother look after his two younger brothers, his parents are separated. He lives with his mother and two brothers in a house on the outskirts of Cusco with no electricity or hot water.

He says he will have to go back to work in the mine in January if nothing else turns up. This seems unlikely. We talk about what he can do, but as he has no qualifications, and poor education his options are limited. Education costs money and time and so do qualifications. He's such a happy kid, I wish you could see his smile when I say lets go for lunch.

It makes the credit crunch, Bush and Brown and all the rest seem like an irrevelence. Until of course I read that gold is now where the rich bastards put their ill gotten gains to keep them safe, and its all too relevant of course. Boys like Jose make them rich, and give their wives their gold to wear. And when they visit Cusco as rich tourists they despise him and his pals.

I will see him again before I leave here and buy him some shoes. Wish I could do more. I could teach him the Internationale I suppose, you never know where it might lead.

The spelling checker doesn't work on these pcs, so any mistakes are entirely intentional.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Shopkeeper

The first day I went along to La Policia I called into the wee greengrocers across the road from it, to buy some fruit and bread for the kids.

The couple who run the shop recognised me from last year and were awfully pleased to see me again. It's nice to feel so welcome in a place. I bet I don't get any welcome back from the shopkeepers of Morningside, even though they,ve taken enough of my dough over the past 30 odd years.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Coca Cafe with Claudia

I moved to my new hotel this morning and am very pleased with it. Nice big double room with shower etc and staff are suberb. The receptionist is called Sandra and looks after me a treat. Am looking forward to my stay here over the next week. Sorry to leave my apartment but will be back there next Saturday. His father came to help me move this morning. He has one of the apartments in the house and seems like a decent cove. He gave me a lift in his car. His driving leaves a lot to be desired.

I was out with Claudia on Thursday night. We had dinner in Granja Heidi, a rather nice wee restaurant in San Blas. I like Claudia a lot and we chatted for over 3 hours. Its nice to chat in two languages, though her English is far superior to my Spanish.

She took me to the Coca Cafe where we had mate de coca as it should be made. It tasted very sweet to me. The owner, Cristo or Christo, came over to chat and explained that all was well with my mate as it was made with all natural ingredients. He only uses unrefined cane sugar and he brought some over for me to try. Will go back there, even if it is at the top of a hill in San Blas.

Claudia and I are meeting up again next Thursday. I am so pleased to have got to know her over past couple of years, she is a very special person. I will ask her if I can put her photo on my blog.

Dancing in the Road

I was walking home late last night, at about 10.30, when I heard some music nearby. I followed the sound and there's this big group of kids dancing away to the music provided by two of their mates on drums and something like a tin whistle.

Looked like they were doing a Strip the Willow or some such. I stopped to watch for a while before heading off home via my local police guard.

I suppose its their version of "dansa cean a' rathaid" . Hope my spelling is there or thereabouts. Its hard to get three languages right all the time.

Diane

I was walking along the road to my apartment and saw this woman walking towards me carrying a huge piece of chocolate cake on a plate. As we passed she stopped to explain that the lovely lady who runs the cafe had made this cake and she was just taking it back to her hotel to consume in piece. We got to chatting and ended up going for dinner the next night in Trotamundos cafe.

We spent a pleasant evening chatting away. She's travelled most of her life and spent 20 years working as a mountain guide in the Himalayas. She now owns a house in Romania, though she is from USA. Has no plans to go back there, except to visit her aging mother. She plans to go back to Romania to work with some women there. Aparently older women in those parts get a shit deal all round.

We got to talking politics as one does but when she claimed not to know anything about USA involvement in South America I decided not to pursue the subject. I don't think my views would have gone down too well and best not to spoil things over a few CIA criminal activities.

We decided to meet again on Saturday morning as she was taking me to a market where a Peruvian woman makes special fruit juices to order. She checks your pulse and then decides whats best for you. Sounded like a great way to spend a Saturday morning.

Unfortunately I was too ill to leave my bed that morning so never made it. Fortunately I bumped into Diane later in the week and she was fine about it. I will call her at her hotel next week.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Cristina Inn

My apartment is a short walk from Plaza de Armas and just along from the police station. There are usually two cops hanging about with their AK47s or whatever. I don't know if I feel safer or less safe with them there. They all seem so young to be hanging about with their guns slung over their shoulders. I walk quickly by and try not to look, it feels more sinister at night somehow.

I really like my apartment, especially as its so close to everything I need and only a 20 minute walk to MN every morning for my Spanish class,where Mabel is usually waiting for me, or sometimes me for her. The walk is just whatthe doctor ordered for my BPand fortunately downhill all the way.

I've added a link to the site for the guy who owns the apartments.Its in an old colonial house which has belonged to his family since they arrived in Cusco in 17... and buil the place. They also own an hotel in Ave el Sol.

I'm paying $200 per week which seems like a good deal. The cheeky bugger agreed $200 and then when I went alongto the hotel to pay him,in cash,as requested,he tried to up it to $250. I resisted his advances,which was a bit easier as he had just told me that his father or his uncle or some one I'm sure never to see, had let the flat out for next week but had forgotten to mark it up.

So the end result is that he has offered me a week in their hotel at no extra cost, breakfast etc included. I would prefer not to have to move, but he's agreed to help me move on Saturady morning and then moveme back on the following Saturday. Do you reckon I should make him pay for the taxi?

And the hotel is called Cristina Inn or Hostal Cristina,which I rather like.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Altitude Problems

Cusco is about 2 miles or more up in the sky somewhere and it's not doing my pressure any good. I can't believe that I was able to do the Inca Trail just a few years ago. It would be out of the question today I'm afraid. So that's what ageing does for you, as well as a few other minor problems, which I needn't go into here.

On top of coping with the altitude I've developed a chest infection, so had to go see the medico yesterday having spent the weekend or most of it laid up in my apartment. He's changed my BP pills and given me stuff for my infection, and today I'm lots better. BP is back to normal, which is a relief as I was worried I might have to leave Cusco. I have been lucky to find a good doctor, Dr Paul, who seems to know his stuff. Have to go back to see him Thursday just for a check up.

Which is why I've not been able to post anything on my blog for past few days. I won't be going to La Policia this week, or maybe a couple hours on Friday. My Spanish classes will be back on tomorrow though.

Thankfully I have a really nice flat so being confined to barracks over the weekend was not such a drag, and I was able to watch the Man U game from my bed at 7 am,live on Fox sports, which was not too bad. They show lots of European footie on lots of channels. My apartment is on the first floor and RHS of the photo I posted.

I was in Chinatown in Lima and saw these flagstones. So my bros were here before me.

I was out with Claudia on Friday night, which was first time I've seen her since I got here. She's great company and helps me with my Spanish. MN asked her at the last minute if she could teach me this year, but she was already booked up. Will be seeing her again on Thursday when she's taking me to a coca cafe. And on Saturday she's taking me to see Elena, who was one ofthe first people I got to know here in Cusco.

Must go now. More on Heber and Robin in my next posting.

Chinatown, Lima


My Apartment

Monday, September 15, 2008

Elim Cusco

I've added a link to the site for Heber's orphanage. It gives a good idea of the area where it's located and the work they do. There's so many kids needing help sometimes the task seems hopeless, but they do lots of good work here and have plans for more in the future.

When I was there on Saturday it was a young ex street kid who was looking after them. He'd been living there for a number of years and they kept him on in some capacity and have given him training and of course he understands what the boys lives are like and can empathise with them.Its his story thats told in the web site.

Eliza has arranged for us to go to see the woman in charge on Wednesday afternoon.

As you can see they are always short of funds and need all the help they can get. There's a bit on the site about sponsoring one of the kids and if anyone is interested that would be great. Let me know if you want more info.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Cusco

Cusco is still much the same, but more expensive than of yore. The flight into Cusco must be one of the most difficult in the world for pilots and exhilarating for the rest of us. You can almost reach out and touch the mountains as you fly down into the valley. I reckon a flight over the Andes and into Cusco is a must do experience. Having done it a few times I feel like an old hand at it.

I need a few days to get used to the altitude,so have been taking it easy over the weekend. I went to meet Heber yesterday. He,s now living in an orphanage called Elim, but he,s allowed to visit his dad's house which is just down the road, and which is where he was when I met him yesterday. He was having lunch on his own in his room. He,s an incredibly happy boy, despite it all. He had all the cards and xmas cards I ever sent him stuck on the wall above his bed. It never ceases to amaze how much something so insignificant to me means so much to him and them.

We then walked up to his orphanange, through some of the poorest bits of Cusco. I met some of the other boys and Heber showed me around. They are planning a trip to Macchu Picchu some day soon and he wants me to go with them. Will have to check this out with the staff. I will go back next week to see him and Eliza has promised to come with me.

I took a taxi into town and was strolling round the Plaza de Armas when who should I bunp into but his brother Robin. He'd been staying in Elim but ran away and is now staying with his mother and helping her out with her stall. I can see why Elim would be a bit boring for Robin, he´s more adventurous shall we say. I´ve arranged to see him at Maximo this week but I´ve forgotten which day. I´m sure he'll find me though.

Met a few of the other boys too. Dany and Anthony are in an orphanage outside of Cusco. They came in to see me today. They wanted to go to a fairground, so we had some juice in Maximo and I took them along. Fortunately they did not mind that I had no desire to stay. I paid for a few rides and left them to it. They know their way around, having been street kids. Dany wants me to meet his girlfriend and his granny, not sure which is most important to him. He wants me to go and see some horses he rode when he was a wee boy, but its at some distance from Cusco, in the countryside somewhere, I think near his gran. My Spanish began to fail me at this point, so will need to see if its raised again.

I'm away to eat now. Tengo hambre. Chau.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Hotel Bolivar, Lima

Hemingway stayed here as did Orson Welles and John Wayne, who it seems married a Peruvian high society woman. I probably slept in Hemingway,s bed, which was nice, as he himself would have said, I,m sure.

The hotel was splendid, full of character, a little run-down and in need of a lick of paint, but very comfortable, and the staff were very friendly too. So I decided to stay a bit longer than planned. All the web sites I checked said how dangerous Lima central is, but I felt quite safe and had no bother at all.

The place is full of history of course. I had a guide for my first morning and she took me to see the Congress building, which is their parliament. She introduced me to a congressman and a congresswoman, who shooks hands with me, and yes I did use my right arm. I didn,t think a left hand shake would go down too well and after all I was representing my country. Anyway no harm done, they shook gently. They welcomed me to their country and invited me to join the government, but I had to decline as I was going to be busy for a few days.

I spent a morning getting a free personal tour of the Museum of the Inquistion. Free because they do hourly English tours and no-one else showed up. The girl refused to accept a tip as it would cost her her job. It was a gruesome trip.

My main memory of Lima is the polution, which fair takes your breath away, literally. Despite this I managed to get my head sun-burnt, at least my bald bits. Its ok now, only lasted one day.