Quotes

"But something had frightened her or disappointed her, or perhaps the rigour of being a god botherer had turned her bottom into stone."

"She was a masculine German with a metallic accent and an imperious gaze that had no relationship to her puerile passions."

Don't you just love it when a sentence comes together in perfection? The first woman is a possible future mother-in-law and the other one is a busybody nun type.

One quote is from Peter Carey and the other is Gabriel Garzía Máquez. Think you can guess which is which? And have you ever know such women? Were there not a few in Lewis with the bottoms of stone? and looking a bit masculine and Germanic even? Tell me now if you've ever met any?

Granja Heidi with the blue shutters

Túpac Amaru

Reading in Peru

I finished reading "Parrot and Olivier in America" some time ago and it's another minor masterpiece from Carey. The main chareacters are unforgettable narrators of their respective stories, and provide a brilliant account of postrevolutionary France and America. Great stuff, very funny, brilliant imagination, huge amount of research and knowledge, as always with Carey. Just a terrific read and well worth the effort. Not sure which I prefer, this one or "The True History of the Kelly Gang", so why not go for both.

Since then I've finished reading "The Reader" by Bernhard Schlink, which has been on my agenda for some time now, so I guess it was about time I got round to it. It's also a great piece of writing, which sure makes you think. I just did not expect that ending. It was quite troubling I thought as he plays with your emotions something rotten. I will have to watch the movie now, see what they make of it, but doubt it can be a match for the book itself.

I recently read "Fateless" by Imre Kertesz, which also deals with the holocaust but from a totally different perspective. More like Primo Levi's books, but better I think, if one is allowed to say such a thing. I have the DVD of the movie at home and keep meaning to watch it, but never quite got round to it. It's a suberb piece of writing, incredibly moving and based on his own expeiences of life in Auschwitz and Buchenwald, where he grew up and became a man. Kertesz was awarded the Nobel Prize a few years back for his work, and well deserved it was too.

I've also read "The Yacoubian Building" by Alaa al Aswany, which is set in Cairo and taught me a lot about life there. " when your house has collapsed and the government has left you sitting with your children in a tent on the street , when the police officer has insulted you and beaten you .......... then you will know why we hate Egypt". I also read "The Siege" by Helen Dunmore, and thoroughly enjoyed it, thanks Gayle for the recommendation. Not quite as unforgettable as that other Anna, but well worth the effort. But you need to read Anna K. I hope Iain has got round to reading the copy I gave him this summer. Well have you Iain?

I gift all my books, well most of them, but not Roth, whose  book "The Humbling" I've also read, in fact I think I read it on the flight over here, to my pal Daniel in Cusco. He loves his books and his English is first rate, so he is able to read all my stuff. He's a teacher of English in one of the local schools here. In return he has given me "Love in the Time of Cholera" to read. It's even better than "One Hundred Years of Solitude" though it's many years since I read it and maybe a reread is due.

All for now.

Stoke City for Champions League

Another mighty victory for Stoke City today. That puts an end to Spurs unbeaten run. Next year the boys will play in the Champions League, I have no doubt. Someone will have to sort out these Spanish teams, don't you think. Can Barca or Real handle our long throws and the lanky boys upfront? No, exactly, I don't think so.

For those of you who don't know, the reason for my love of Stoke City is the three splendid, unforgettable years I spent there in the sixties, when Stoke were in the old first division, though I do recall some relegation fights  which caused some serious annoyance in the pub where I used to work.

Quite often on a Saturday morning Gordon Banks and I used to go to the same cafe in Stoke centre, near the old Victoria Ground, he to prepare for his game and me to prepare for whatever the day may bring. I suspect he fancied the waitress behind the counter. For those of you who don't know, he was the world's greatest goalkeeper at the time, and in fact probably the greatest ever. He seemed like a very friendly bloke with his funny eye and all.

And Stan Matthews was one of the best players ever. I just missed his fianl season in 1965. I once saw a friendly between Stoke and Rangers. I can't remember the result now. Stoke probably won.

So there you have it.

Donkeys' willies

Yesterday was a very busy day at La Policia, with twelve kids there. And we were blessed with a visit from some missionaries from USA. They told me that they work with some orphanages and seemed to be looking for recruits for said orphanage. Guy told me " we are particularly interested in these three boys".... which seemed a strange way to put it. I pointed out that the boys future was decided by a judge in the court, and due process etc (well didn't quite say due process, but you know what I mean). I guess he has their best interests at heart, but I can't help wondering if their time would not be better spent back in the USA, where I feel convinced there are plenty of the unconverted types to assist on the road to salvation. Still good luck to them.

After they had left I spoke to the three boys in question. They are all shoe shine boys working in La Plaza, and are in touch with other organistions working with street kids. They were a cheeky bunch of boys and very lively. I got them drawing and they found it really hilarious to draw donkeys with big willies. What laughs we had!!! I was wishing the missionaries had seen the donkeys, which were indeed impressive and well drawn. They do have some talent.

I see Man U are back to winning ways at last.... shame about Champions League and Vidic being out for rest of season, but I reckon the boys are good enough for the league again... I will support Arsenal in Champions league, but only for this once mind, this is a big big concession I'm making for you Arsenal fans, especially for you Lewis....and for old man Wenger, I think he deserves it... but the Spaniards are looking good ...

Shaman Shopping

Paper seller in Cusco

Dia de la Purísima Concepción

Today is a national public holiday in Peru so no-one goes to work, or so I'm told. The teachers here in Maximo have a day off so I've no Spanish class today, which gives me a few minutes to update my blog. Apparently Peru has the highest number of public holidays in the whole of South America, mostly of a religious variety.

I of course went to work as usual  at La Policia which was busy with six kids. Sorry to relate that Romiro arrived back this morning. He had been sent to stay in an orphanage, Jesus mi Luz, which I know, and is one of the best I've seen. However his stay didn't last long. He escaped through a window and was picked up by the police doing a spot of thieving. Not sure of what variety but doesn't really matter. This is the boy who wants to be my son, so I'm doubly disappointed in his return to La Policia. I've tried to speak to him but I don't think much gets through. He's an orphan, doesn't know his parents and does not want to live with his grandmother. Will have to see how things work out for him, but the future does not blossom with promises.

We had two brothers aged three and five there yesterday, abandoned by drunken parents. They both cried and screamed a lot, but we got them calmed down and eventually I walked them along to their medical, ably assisted by one of the policewomen. All the kids at La Policia get a medical. The centre is only two blocks away. The boys were quite happy when I left and I've no idea what became of them. This happens with lots of the kids here of course.

Two of the other boys, Julio and Kevin, have also been sent to Jesus mi Luz, and they have been asking for me to visit them. I will try to do so before I leave Cusco next week, but time is short.

Student demo and Cusco Cathedral

Today we had a students demonstration in Cusco which was quite impressive. I watched the start of it as I set off for work and when I got back into town for lunch they were still protesting. As far as I can make out they were protesting over a fare increase on the buses or combis. I've heard that some combis were spay painted during the demo, whilst full of passengers. All the buses belong to private companies. I also heard that some stones were thrown , but that may just be a rumour, put about by the companies. Go good luck to all you students in Cusco.

Today was also national police day here in Peru, so the Plaza de Armas was taken over for the celebration. Which I guess is why the students could not get into the Plaza. I was only there for a few minutes to watch the proceedings as I passed by on my way to lunch. There were lots of police, of all kinds on show and parading round the Plaza, and taking lots of applause from the onlookers. Also all the high ranks up there in front of ther cathedral trying their best to look impressive and important. The dog team were there parading with their dogs, some of whom could walk on their hind legs and were maybe even doing a little dance to the marial music. Police on horseback showing off how they could stand up straight on their horses backs, whilst taking a salute. One does feel so safe....

I took a tour of Cusco Cathedral on Sunday, as I'd not been since my first visit here. The place was built on top of an Incan Palace, from 1550 and took a century to complete. One of the altars is made of solid silver, and there's lots of gold to be seen too. There's a painting of the Last Supper, by a guy called Marcos Zapata, which features a cuy (quinea pig) as main meal. I don't actually know what the Last Supper main dish was, it could have been cuy for all I know.

As one would expect there are lots of Saints one can pray to. Saint Antoni of Padua is partcicularly interesting. He's the guy that women can pray to when they are looking for a husband, and he seems to oblige. Apparently some women have little icons at home, which they keep upside down and once a week turn him right way up to remind him of his duties. Or maybe they just turn him upside down once a week. Notes are left for him in the cathedral, and indeen I could see some, and was very tempted to have a look. Some are thank you notes for work well done by Antoni.

There's also a Senor de los Temblores, or lord of the earthquakes, who is a black Christ figure in the Cathredal. I can't remember how he turned black, maybe from candles, I don't know. Cusco was struck by a huge earthquake in 1650 which destroyed most of the city and left thousands dead. There's a painting of the earthquake happening in the Cathedral which shows the Plaza as it was then and the buildings falling down, explosions and slates falling off roofs.

They also have on display the first Cross brought over by the conquistador Pizarro and his Spanish pals and used to convert the natives to christianity or maybe I should say to terrify them into believing.

Ají de Gallina

Santa behind bars in Cusco

Sex education in Peru

There is a huge need for sex education in these parts, especially out in the countryside. I was told a story by one of the workers in the international office here in Maximo about how she was working out in some schools in the countryside and doing some sex education. She decided to get the adults in to give them some lessons too. She was demonstrating how to use a condom, using a brush handle, as one does when pushed, and they all seemed to get the hang of it. So she went back a few weeks later to see how things were going, and yes they told her they were all using condoms now and yes they seemed to be working. But I'm sure you can guess how they were using them. Yes, lots of brush handles were taking the necessary precautions. This is a true story, I'm told.

On a quite unrelated matter, I meant to say thanks to Marian, my pal and Spanish teacher in Edinburgh. Thank you for your donation to the kids of Villa Maria. It will go towards their Xmas party. The books you lent me have gone down well in La Policia de la Familia. The kids love reading them, especially "No Te Rías Pepe" and "El Gallo Quirico". They've been well liked by the boys and girls here and they love to read them out loud, even the ones with the poorer reading skills. I wish you could have seen the look on Jerson's face when he realised he could do it. It was a picture of happiness, brought tears to my eyes. I guess they don't often get anyone to sit down and read with them. They also like to draw all the characters, so thanks again, you have done your little bit for these kids.

Granja Heidi restaurant was even more busy than usual one day this week, when we had a delegation of about twelve folk arrive from the World Youth International. Not one of them looked a day under thirty, reminded me of the Scotish Youth Parliament, which once had K as it's chair and he must have been 25 or even 26 at the time. So if these guys from WYI are youths then I'm just a young man.

I was in a taxi this week and thought I recognised the song he was playing, which turned out to be The Doors song "LA Woman", it having been a long time since I heard it I was quite pleased to be reminded how great a band they were. Had a chat with the taximan about old Jim and he knew all about him, including his burial in Paris,though the name of the cemetary escaped me and him. But you all know where I mean, some of you have even visited, though I hope not defaced it like so many do. I think all my Doors albums are on vinyl, maybe I should do something about that.

Sunday morning in Cusco

Another beautiful sunny day in Cusco. Wonder what the temperature is? Must be quite high, well into 20s I would say. So will have to go out and enjoy the sunshine. It's Sunday morning and sitting in Maximo, which is surprisingly empty right now. I think everyone goes out on Saturday nights to discos and such like and they don't get home till dawn or later even. Ahh well nowadays I prefer the early night and early rise, to enjoy the early morning pleasure of Cusco. Too many earlies in that last sentence, but what the hell.

Speaking of good English reminds me that my Spanish is coming along nicely. One day I hope to be able to write in Spanish for this blog. I could do so now but it would not be good for those of you who are not privileged to speak that fine language, and it would not be good for the native Spanish speakers to see their language messed about by me. But one day I will try. I'm by no means fluent but I can hold a good level of conversation so long as people speak nice and slow for me. 

I was out with my pals Fernando, who comes from Lima, and Ricardo who is Brazileno, from Sao Paulo, and neither of them speak English, but was able to survive for three hours or more, with a little help from them, so felt quite pleased with myself. Sao Paulo is the biggest city in South America, and apparently, according to Ricardo has a bigger population than all of Peru. But I've not checked his facts. Anyway Sao Paulo is huge and I hope to visit it someday soon, once I've finished with DWP.

Lima is the biggest city in the world built on a desert, although maybe Cairo is bigger. Who really knows? Fernando says Cairo is bigger but  Wikipedia says the reverse.One region of Peru, called Loreto, mostly  made up of forrest, is bigger than Germany and France combined. So Peru is a big big place and most of it sparsely populated.

Cusco from above

Deplorable

Some things happen that really piss me off, and getting pissed off does my pressure no good, but sometimes you just can't help it.

I was at La Policia yesterday morning with Amy who is in charge of the volunteer work here at Maximo Nivel, and a lovely pesron too. She's the Hearts fan, but nothing wrong with that, I say. She had come along to see the project and to work out how else Maximo could help. I think they have decided to start sending food along every morning for the kids breakfast.

I was just introducing her to all the kids and showing her how we spend our time, when in walks this group of primary school age kids accompanied by their teacher and a couple of cops. There were about 20 of them and all dressed up in their immaculate uniforms and crowded into our room which is quite small and dominated by the kids bunk beds etc. In fact not a very nice place at all.

So the teacher begins to tell her kids, that this is where all the bad boys are brought when they have done bad things etc etc. It was like bringing a gang of kids to the zoo. The boys just stared and like us could not believe it. I looked at Amy and could see she was none too chuffed. It took all my willpower to restrain myself from saying something to the idiot teacher.

I'm still angry when I think about it. These kids have been given a seriously poor start in life and to be used like this is quite deplorable. I really felt for my kids. Most of them are either abandoned by their families or ran away from the abuse they suffer. Few of them have ever done anything worse than I'm sure that bloody teacher did in her life.

I better not say anymore about it for now. More posts tomorrow.

Quiero ser tu hijo

Romero hadn't been getting involved very much at La Policia for the past few days, he's been there for five days, so I've spent four days working with him. While all the other kids like to draw and read and stuff like that, he just wanted to mess about, nothing bad but nothing constructive either. But we'd got on well and he always seemed very pleased to see me.

Today when I arrived he told me he wanted to read with me, so as soon as I'd got the other five kids doing something I sat down with him and he read the whole bloody book with me, aloud. He reads well, not perfectly, but as good as most of these kids and was so happy with himself. He just wanted to read and read. Then he took me completely by surprise when he decided that he wanted to draw, having told me all week that he didn't like to draw and that he couldn't do it anyway. In fact it turns out that he's very good at drawing and colouring.

I was so pleased for him, and that he was joining in. He did tend to snatch the pencils he wanted from the rest of them, but after a few words of encouragement and a request for a bit of "tranquilo" he was fine.

A few minutes later he came up to me and giving me a big hug he told me "quiero ser tu hijo" , I want to be your son. Hard to know what to say to that. I was quite taken aback and a little bit upset for him. But I guess it's as big a compliment as I could get, by way of a thank you. And he meant it too.

It's been a busy week at La Policia. There's only one girl there just now. She's a lovely 14 year old who gets beaten up by her step father and then dumped at La Policia by her mother. I've been chatting to her quite a bit and encouraging her to make a report to the police and get him charged but her mother discourages her. I hope she can go to live with her real father which is what she wants.

We were chatting about her education and bits like that. She goes to school in the morning and then to an academia in the afternoons. You can imagine my surprise when it turns out the she is studying karate. So I told her about my tai chi classes and it turns out that she does tai chi too at her academy. She hopes to have her own school one day and teach karate and tai chi. Lets hope she gets all her desires come true. She deserves it and more. I didn't like to ask her if she fought back against her step father with some karate kicks. Lets hope so, or maybe not. But you do just wish that some one would. Maybe Rick could come to sort him out. Rick is my tai chi professor. btw.

Must go hunger calls. Will post more soon.

N 30, strike day

Tomorrow is the Big Strike day in old UK. So here I am in Cusco thinking of you all back home preparing for the big day. All of you in your different ways. But my thoughts will definitely be with all those of you who are heading out for the odd picket line. I wish I was with you, well almost.... just like me to miss the biggest strike day since ... well since I don't know when.

I hope it's hugely successful. I don't expect it to bring down the Tory government but we have to start somewhere. I hope the Edinburgh demo is enormous. Good luck with that.

Today was another hot day in Cusco. There were seven kids in La Policia when I arrived and eight by the time I left. We had earthquake evacuation practice while I was there, so had to help escort the kids down into the street where we all gathered. Cops and kids and me. They had drawn a circle in the middle of the road and we all had to stand in a circle. I didn't see anyone doing a count but I guess they must have done.

I buy food for them everyday as rations are meek if not non existent in La Policia. The folk whose shop I go to near to La Policia remember me from way back. They even missed me last week when I was off with my bug. They are so welcoming and always ask about the kids. I buy some bread rolls, apples and drinks for them. They love it. The pregnant girls is away. Don't know where she went in the end. Hope she got to be with her boy friend.

There are a lot of kids there who speak Quechua in La Policia just now. We had a late arrival this morning who says he left home in the countryside because of the beatings he suffers. Him and another boy who is fluent in Quechua were soon chatting away in their native tongue. Which was great to see/hear. The cops don't speak the lingo so it doesn't go down well. I'm told that there is a lot of discrimination against Quechua speakers. Though I've not personally witnessed any so far in La Policia.

Must go home to take a pill and then come back to meet my lawyer friend Fernando who has become a father since my last trip.

Excellent shopping opportunities

Granja Heidi

The picture of the rocoto was posted from my iPhone and as can be seen it cut off a little bit of the plate even though the whole thing is there in the original photo. But you get the idea and it was another delicious dinner in Granja Heidi. It was preceded by a lovely crema de camote, it being a small type of sweet potato thingee though not actually of the potato variety. The restaurant owner always keeps examples of the produce ready to hand to show to customers who enquire and is always willing to go on at length about it's origins and uses, and I mean at length. I've never really been to a restaurant quite like it.

Right that's enough. Dr Grober tells me that amlodopine, which I take here in Cusco is known to cause hand tremors in some people, but will stop once the pills are stopped, so typing on my iPhone is even more exciting. Mind you it's less bad today and maybe even only in my imagination which does seem to hide lots of weird stuff.