Tuesday, December 06, 2011

Student demo and Cusco Cathedral

Today we had a students demonstration in Cusco which was quite impressive. I watched the start of it as I set off for work and when I got back into town for lunch they were still protesting. As far as I can make out they were protesting over a fare increase on the buses or combis. I've heard that some combis were spay painted during the demo, whilst full of passengers. All the buses belong to private companies. I also heard that some stones were thrown , but that may just be a rumour, put about by the companies. Go good luck to all you students in Cusco.

Today was also national police day here in Peru, so the Plaza de Armas was taken over for the celebration. Which I guess is why the students could not get into the Plaza. I was only there for a few minutes to watch the proceedings as I passed by on my way to lunch. There were lots of police, of all kinds on show and parading round the Plaza, and taking lots of applause from the onlookers. Also all the high ranks up there in front of ther cathedral trying their best to look impressive and important. The dog team were there parading with their dogs, some of whom could walk on their hind legs and were maybe even doing a little dance to the marial music. Police on horseback showing off how they could stand up straight on their horses backs, whilst taking a salute. One does feel so safe....

I took a tour of Cusco Cathedral on Sunday, as I'd not been since my first visit here. The place was built on top of an Incan Palace, from 1550 and took a century to complete. One of the altars is made of solid silver, and there's lots of gold to be seen too. There's a painting of the Last Supper, by a guy called Marcos Zapata, which features a cuy (quinea pig) as main meal. I don't actually know what the Last Supper main dish was, it could have been cuy for all I know.

As one would expect there are lots of Saints one can pray to. Saint Antoni of Padua is partcicularly interesting. He's the guy that women can pray to when they are looking for a husband, and he seems to oblige. Apparently some women have little icons at home, which they keep upside down and once a week turn him right way up to remind him of his duties. Or maybe they just turn him upside down once a week. Notes are left for him in the cathedral, and indeen I could see some, and was very tempted to have a look. Some are thank you notes for work well done by Antoni.

There's also a Senor de los Temblores, or lord of the earthquakes, who is a black Christ figure in the Cathredal. I can't remember how he turned black, maybe from candles, I don't know. Cusco was struck by a huge earthquake in 1650 which destroyed most of the city and left thousands dead. There's a painting of the earthquake happening in the Cathedral which shows the Plaza as it was then and the buildings falling down, explosions and slates falling off roofs.

They also have on display the first Cross brought over by the conquistador Pizarro and his Spanish pals and used to convert the natives to christianity or maybe I should say to terrify them into believing.

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