Tuesday, November 29, 2011

N 30, strike day

Tomorrow is the Big Strike day in old UK. So here I am in Cusco thinking of you all back home preparing for the big day. All of you in your different ways. But my thoughts will definitely be with all those of you who are heading out for the odd picket line. I wish I was with you, well almost.... just like me to miss the biggest strike day since ... well since I don't know when.

I hope it's hugely successful. I don't expect it to bring down the Tory government but we have to start somewhere. I hope the Edinburgh demo is enormous. Good luck with that.

Today was another hot day in Cusco. There were seven kids in La Policia when I arrived and eight by the time I left. We had earthquake evacuation practice while I was there, so had to help escort the kids down into the street where we all gathered. Cops and kids and me. They had drawn a circle in the middle of the road and we all had to stand in a circle. I didn't see anyone doing a count but I guess they must have done.

I buy food for them everyday as rations are meek if not non existent in La Policia. The folk whose shop I go to near to La Policia remember me from way back. They even missed me last week when I was off with my bug. They are so welcoming and always ask about the kids. I buy some bread rolls, apples and drinks for them. They love it. The pregnant girls is away. Don't know where she went in the end. Hope she got to be with her boy friend.

There are a lot of kids there who speak Quechua in La Policia just now. We had a late arrival this morning who says he left home in the countryside because of the beatings he suffers. Him and another boy who is fluent in Quechua were soon chatting away in their native tongue. Which was great to see/hear. The cops don't speak the lingo so it doesn't go down well. I'm told that there is a lot of discrimination against Quechua speakers. Though I've not personally witnessed any so far in La Policia.

Must go home to take a pill and then come back to meet my lawyer friend Fernando who has become a father since my last trip.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Granja Heidi

The picture of the rocoto was posted from my iPhone and as can be seen it cut off a little bit of the plate even though the whole thing is there in the original photo. But you get the idea and it was another delicious dinner in Granja Heidi. It was preceded by a lovely crema de camote, it being a small type of sweet potato thingee though not actually of the potato variety. The restaurant owner always keeps examples of the produce ready to hand to show to customers who enquire and is always willing to go on at length about it's origins and uses, and I mean at length. I've never really been to a restaurant quite like it.

Right that's enough. Dr Grober tells me that amlodopine, which I take here in Cusco is known to cause hand tremors in some people, but will stop once the pills are stopped, so typing on my iPhone is even more exciting. Mind you it's less bad today and maybe even only in my imagination which does seem to hide lots of weird stuff.

Some reading ideas

I started reading "Life and Fate" while I was in Lima but have had to change my reading habits here in Cusco for logistical reasons. It's a rather large volume indeed, I forget how many pages but as big as if not bigger than War & Peace. So it's way too heavy for me to carry around with me, as well as my Spanish books and notebooks and stuff for keeping the kids at La Policia entertained, such as drawing paper, pencils and books, of which there are none available on site. As well as which I carry a light weight waterproof. Mind you I don't actually carry all this all of the time as I'm able to leave the bits I don't need in Maximo along with my laptop.

So anyway Life & Fate is back on the shelf until I get back to edinburgh. From what I've read so far it's a stunning piece of work. A bit complex and complicated but the BBC provided a kind of family tree for all the main characters which I printed out before I left and which does help.

So instead I'm reading Peter Carey's book "Parrot and Olivier in America" which I'm thoroughly enjoying. I think I've recommended one of his books before, The True History of the Kelly Gang. He's one of my favourite authors of the modern variety, up there with Roth etc. His research is as usual phenomenal so it's a history lesson combined with a great read. Set at time of French Revolution and moves from there to USA with trips to UK as well.

I think I will finish with a quote from it which fairly made me squirm with delight. They don't do sex like this anymore and God knows where he gets his descriptive powers from but they are "amazing" and there's lots more besides. So here it is and I hope he doesn't demand any fees:

" I ate her, drank her, boiled her, stroked her till she was like a lovely flapping fish and her hair was drenched and our eyes held and our skins slid off each other and we smelled like farm animals, seaweed, the tanneries upriver. She lay in my arms, exhausted, slippery, weeping with relief, and after what we had been through, ............. It was meet and right that we should cry. "

Brings back memories?? Does it not? Enough sex for tonight.

I see Kilmarnock did well today too so more rejoicing in Kentucky if not elsewhere. Thank you to Liverpool for a little help today. And RIP Gary Speed.


Saturday, November 26, 2011

Rocoto relleno con carne de res

Rambling

I don't seem to have mentioned the footie much this time round. As I write this at about 12 pm Peru time, I'm following the games online with the Guardian, and Stoke have just beaten Blackburn 3-1, which is good news as we were getting a bit worried that our Euro adventure was turning into a bit of a nightmare. So well done boys. And Newcastle have just scored a penalty at Old Trafford. And Celtic have scored five, which should bring some joy to certain households around Scotland and maybe even in Kentucky.

Yesterday and today I've got back to normal and feel fully adjusted to the altitude here in Cusco. It does take a while to get used to things and this time round had to get over my foodie problem as well. So I feel brand new today. And shortly off to eat at Granja Heidi Restaurante which is as good as ever it was. It's my wee food bolt hole, I always know its going to be ok there. I do try other places but always go back.

Started my Spanish classes this week and my teacher is Dante once more. He's very good and patient. An excellent teacher, as are all the teachers I've had here at Maximo. First day there we had an earthquake tremor which fairly shook the old building, which is in Ave El Sol, one of the old streets of Cusco. We looked at each other but just stayed in our places. It's not a good feeling but we laugh it off. Funny! No I don't think so. I don't know where the epicentre was as I don't buy El Comercio in Cusco as it costs more than $1.00 and it's not worth it. They charge an extra sol for the carriage from Lima, a bit like petrol to Stornoway. Also it's a bit to the right, so to speak, but it does have reasonable cultural coverage and all the footie news from around the world. They supported Keiko in the presedential elections as far as I can make out, and are none to keen on Huamala.

I don't remember why I started this posting, hope its not too boring for you all. It's a beautiful hot day in Cusco right now. We might get a bit of rain later, but it never lasts. Question is should I stay home tonight and continue to recover or should  I venture out to catch some music in a bar maybe??? Decisions, decisions.

I see Newcastle have managed a draw, so good luck Liverpool tomorrow, though you won't like doing us any favours.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Ricardo Palma and friend in Lima

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Medicine Women

There I was minding my own business having a cup of coffee in a cafe near Plaza de Armas, when this hippy couple walked in and sat down at table next to me and began to chat very loudly.

"I've met this amazing Alaskan Medicine Woman, she's truly amazing"

"Thats nice" says he

"Yes I'm so happy, she just amazing. And she's doing a world tour with a big drum. Can you believe it? And tomorrow she's doing a ceremony in Pisac" ( Pisac a market town near Cusco popular with tourists)

" I think we should go honey, it will be awesome" at this point they are joined by another couple and the amazing story is repeated for their benefit.

"And she was with an amazing medicine woman from Cusco, and they will both be in Pisac for the ceremony tomorrow. We must go it will be an amazing experience"

"It only costs $30 each to attend. Just amazing!!!!!"

Well maybe the conversation was not quite like that but pretty close, and very amazing. And they decided to go. There is indeed an Alaskan medicine woman constantly touring the world with her drum. I've checked on Google so must be true. Essentially a nice little earner,  just another business woman, pretending to heal the sick of mind.  And meantime all around is chaos.

I met and was chatting to an American woman,  maybe a bit younger than me, who has spent the last year here in Cusco studying shamanism. She's left it all behind back in USA to come here to study this bullshit. I think she saw my scepticism and gave up.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Street fighting years

I live in a street called Pasaje Zavaleta which is a dead street off Confradernidad, but Confradernidad is being re surfaced just now so it's closed to traffic. This means the taxis can't take me all the way to my apartment which is at the end of Pasaje Zavaleta, which is no problem usually, as it's not far and quite well lit.

I was walking home, not too late on Friday night, and as I approached Zavaleta I could hear loud disturbances, and as I reached saw a gang, or two gangs of youths, and some older men, who obviously should have known better, engaged in a full out fight. A little perturbing as they completed blocked the street. I could see that the fight was making its way down to Confradernidad and would soon arrive there. Maybe one lot were trying to make their escape. I knew I had to beat a retreat but couldn't work out which way they were likely to turn once they got to the end of the street. Thinking quickly as it were, this all having taken seconds so far, I decided to go back the way I'd come.

Fortunately for me they went the other way and carried on their fight along the street. Once they'd moved some distance I made my way back to my apartment. Very relieved too.

I have to walk across a railway line which cuts Confradernidad in two. It's not often in use and seems to be only for a depot of some kind. Maybe it's used more at night. I was walking along Condradernidad to pick up a taxi, and almost walked out in front of a reversing train. There was one guy stopping the traffic but no-one telling pavement walkers to hold on. It was a close shave indeed. That would have been some end, under a dirty old train in Cusco.

We've had some heavy rain here over past couple of days so I assume the rainy season is with us. The rain is usaully preceded by some loud thunderstorms. When it rains it's as if someone is pouring a bucket of rain right over your head. It's a different kind of rain to Scotland's. When the rain stops, usually after a couple of hours, sometimes more, sometime less, it gets very hot again, and the sun shines down on us all.

La Policia de La Familia

I've been back to work with the kids at La Policia again, though I've only been able to go a couple of time due to my affliction, which is much improved today.

It is somewhat improved since my last visit though still quite grim. They've put down a new tiled floor which makes it more comfortable and easier to keep clean. The walls have been newly painted and the bathroom has had a much needed renovation with a new toilet and wash basin. There's also a shower which they can use but only with cold water, but better than no shower at all.

Other than that the place hasn't changed much, though I don't think there are so many children taken there anymore. Certainly not the twenty or thirty we had in the past. But the need remains the same for the kids who are there. And I think the police do their best in difficult circumstances, after all they are not social workers, just the same as cops back in UK.

There were seven kids there on my first day. David a wee boy of 11 years who had run away from his home somewhere in The Sacred Valley, many many miles away from Cusco. How he was able to make it I have no idea. But here he is. He will be taken back home I think once they make contact with his family. But why he left is something else and he doesn't seem keen to explain. He speaks Quechua and I got him to write a wee bit for me. Told him he must try to keep learning it and never to lose it.

Jerson is a boy of 13 years who ran away from his home in Cusco because of the beatings administered by his parents. He refuses to go back and police and courts have agreed so he is now waiting to find a place in a childrens home, which in fact has now been found, so I said goodbye to him and don't expect to see him again. He wants me to visit him there, but I doubt if I will be able to. Will see how things go.

There were also three teenage girls there who had been lifted on Friday night for being at a disco underage. The punishment seems harsh. They were still there three days later. Their parents don't seem too bothered or in too much of a rush to collect them. Wonder what happened to the owner of the disco. Certainly not been locked up for a few days, but maybe they will close the place down for breaking the rules.

There's also the fourteen year old girl who is pregnant and been thrown out by parents for refusing an abortion. Happy days. She hopes to go to live with her boyfrind, the father,  who is 19 and lives with his folks. Don't know how that works out here. Not sure of legal ages etc.

All for now.

Bad food

For the first time in all my visits to Peru I've had food poisoning and it's not been a pleasant experience to say the least.

I ate in a bar, which shall remain nameless, in Cusco on Sunday night and I was pretty sure they were the culprits. I just wanted something quick and easy while watching some footie. Well it was certainly quick but with utterly devastating consequences. I won't go into the details, so as not to upset folks, but if you've ever suffered it you will know what I mean.

Had to see Dr Grober about it and he gave me the diagnosis, though I was fairly sure what the problem was. He gave me some pills and checked me out. Blood pressure doing well.

Am seeing him again in about half an hour for a quick check up. I've discovered this morning that three teachers from Maximo Nivel ate at the same bar over the weekend and all are down with food poisoning. So there's no doubting the source of my affliction.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Bus to Villa Maria, Lima

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In Cusco again

Arrived in Cusco lunch time yesterday and was immediately hit by the altitude and the heat. It was a bit overwhelming to say the least. I keep thinking that it will be easier every time, but it never is. Still today is Friday and I'm beginning to acclimatize already. It usually takes a few days so by Monday should be ok. I'm sitting in Maximo Nivel cafe writing this post and getting greetings from all the people here I know from previous years.

We have a new director of International Programs called Amy and her best friend lives in Edinburgh and is the sister of Andrew Driver, who plays for Hearts. She's been to visit Edinburgh and few times and goes to Tynecastle to watch the boy play, and is now a fully fledged supporter of the Hearts. Which should please my pal Colin to know his team has a supporter in Cusco.

There's a rock concert on here tonigh, with some group from USA who play classic rock numbers from days of yore. I might just pop along to that if I can find someone to accompany me.

Will post some more photos later if I find the time. Not that I'm busy but still time disappears. Must be some way to slow it down surely. If anyone knows please let me know.

Elio & Jenderson deep in discussion

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Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Thank you messages

Yesterday was my last day in Villa Maria this time round. It's hard to believe really. I've had a great time with the kids there yet again and working with Flor is always a pleasure.

It was very sad to be leaving, but I will be back in Lima in December for a few days before I fly back to Scotland. The kids have invited me along to their Xmas party on 19th December, so am looking forward to that.

I've given a wee donation so that they can pay for a clown or some kind of show to come in to perform for them at the party. Thanks to Marian too for her donation to the kids of INABIF before I left Edinburgh. It will go towards the party funds too.

The kids wrote me very touching thank you letters. They are always so glad to see me and sad to see me go. One of the boys siad in his message that he wanted to come with me, which came completely out of the blue. All their messages were moving and had me near to tears... well not quite in tears but you know what I mean. It really amazes me because I feel as I'm doing so little there,but obviously they think otherwise.

So tomorrow I'm off to Cusco. It's Wednesday morning and I'm about to head off out to check in at the travel agents. Don't have a printer here so can't do it online. Will maybe post some more later. Will see how time goes. Fast as usual I guess. Got some pics to post too.

Work, work, work

I've just had a call from Heber to tell me he got the job in Chosica and actually started work today. I'm so happy for him, he deserves some success in his life. I just hope he settles down there and can eventually find his own place to live, maybe nearer his work. In any case meantime it's great news. He's like a family member to me nowadays. I'm so glad to be able to encourage him along the road of life.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Ecuador 2 Peru 0

Qué pena! Qué Lástima!

This was a world cup qualifier in Ecuador. Watched the end of the game with some fans in the street here in Miraflores. It was being shown on a biggish screen in some shop or other. Saw the second goal and then we all left. With about 3 minutes to go.

One of the kids in Villa Maria asked me if Scotland had ever played Peru. Unfortunately had to tell him about our 1978 world cup embarrasment ( how do you spell that again?).

The boys found this quite amusing.... as indeed do I.

Monday, November 14, 2011

Chorrillos

I suppose it's time to bring this blog up to date before I leave Lima later this week. I've been very busy of late and hence the absence of postings.

Since last year Blogger has introduced some new features such as keeping stats showing number of page views and countries where it's viewed. So far my blog has been viewed 2,623 times and over 300 times since my arrival here this time round. It's been read in UK, USA, Peru, Russia, Canada, Germany, India, Brazil and Latvia. So I guess an update for all my readers out there is well overdue. And I've also been read in Korea.

I saw Heber at the weekend. I think he's fully recovered now from his taxi moto accident. He has an interview on Wednesday for a job with some electronics company, maybe Siemens, then again maybe some other company. He has an uncle who works there and he's arranged it for him. It's in a place called Chosica which is some distance from Villa Maria, but he will be able to share transport should he get the job. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for him tomorrow.

He will be given a training in electronics or some such and he's talking about them paying for him to go to college. Sounds like a great opportunity for him, but like everything else in his life it's all quite precarious. He has two aunts here in Lima and unfortunately they are now talking about leaving. I've been encouraging him to look for accommodation in Chosica if he gets the job there. But it's a very different kind of area, socially speaking, and he may not feel comfortable there. There is a fair bit of discrimination against the less economically endowed amongs the middle classes hereabouts. Though they would deny it of course.

We went to visit Parque de las Tradiciones where there is a statue of Ricardo Palma, sitting on a bench reading a book. The park is named after him as are many other places and streets round about here. He is one of Peru's most famous historical figures, mostly famous for his literary work and his rescue of Peru's national library which was more or less detroyed in the Pacific War between Peru and Chile in the late 19th century. He was able to rebuild it to its former glory and to recover 10s of thousands of books from the Chilean authorities. Chile is not too well liked in Peru. I will post couple of pics of Ricardo's statue. I'd been meaning to go for some time so very pleased that we went.

I also visited Chorrillos which is along the coast from Miraflores, another suburb of Lima which is a lot older than Miraflores. It is a bit of a beach resort, though I didn't take the opportunity to go for a swim, the water looks clear and clean but not worth the risk. There is a huge statue of Christ on a hill called Morro Solar, which can be seen from all around the area. Especially at night as it's all lit up. Will post a photo or two for your delectation. It was also the scene of a big battle in the War of the Pacific, in which the Chileans are reported as having behaved in an unacceptable fashion, including the usual rape and sacking of the town of Chorrillos, which they set on fire and destroyed. And so it goes on.

I took the metropolitano out to Chorrillos. It's a newish transport system here in Lima which is fast and modern, and a big improvement on the bus service. It's also very busy and so standing rom only, but not too hard to handle as it's quick and smooth. We will soon have "el tren electronico" up and running but thats another story, A bit like the Edinburgh trams saga.

Thursday, November 10, 2011