Saturday, September 29, 2012
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
El Cóndor
The condor is the national symbol of Peru and I think of a few other countries as well. It's said to be the largest bird in the world, at least it has the longest wing span of any bird. It doesn't hunt or kill as it's just not cut out for such nastiness due to poor design maybe. It feeds on carrion which it can see from way up in the Andean skies, at about 5000 metres up. It has a very strong sense of smell and a very strong beak which enables it to tear apart the carcasses it feeds on, such as cattle or deer.
The male bird (el cóndor macho) is said to be more beautiful than the female (el cóndor hembra). They are monogamous and once they've chosen a partner, if it dies the condor will remain faithful as long as it lives, and not take another partner. It spends most of it's time gliding way up high where it can keep an eye on things, and only comes to rest to feed or sleep. It can fly hundreds of miles a day.
Thats all I know for sure about the condor, but I've been told lots of stories about condors and sometimes it's hard to separate fact from myth. My friend Daniel claims that the male condor, when it reaches old age, knows that it's time to go, so commits suicide by diving full speed into a mountain and ending it all. I like this story and can just imagine the old condor flying around and saying goodbye to family and friends before he heads off to what he probably thinks is a new life on the other side. However my pal and teacher Eric is not quite so keen on this story, probably an Incan myth/legend, and he reckons that the old bird thinks he is still a young thing and can fly as fast as he could in the days of his youth, but of course he can't, loses control of his dive and crashes to his death. Eric reckons the condor is unable to reflect on life, like us humans and so could not decide to finish it all. But if not how can he think he wants to fly like a young thing. I think overall I prefer Daniel's myth, and who knows anyway what that fine bird thinks?
Daniel also reckons that the condors do a special little dance when they find carrion to feed on, as a kind of celebration, and then the chief bird has to eat first before the rest can pile in. Eric reckons the condor is a lonesome soul and doesn't like group activity, and has never heard about the dance.
The Incas of old venerated the condor, especially as it kept the earth clean of rotting carcasses and the earth was worshipped too, pachamama, and still is in some places. This is why you might see older Andean folk, when they drink chicha, will pour a little out on the earth first to feed pachamama. So I'm told anyway.
The reason for all this about the condor is that I'm off to Pisac, in the Sacred Valley tomorrow to visit the market there and also to go to the zoo where I will be able to see some condors. Apparently held there to recover from injuries and then released when they are fit. So they say but I'm a bit sceptical. These will be my first condors.
If you're from Peru and you're reading this and it's a load of crap please let me know so I can educate myself. I would hate to be misleading folk around the world.
The male bird (el cóndor macho) is said to be more beautiful than the female (el cóndor hembra). They are monogamous and once they've chosen a partner, if it dies the condor will remain faithful as long as it lives, and not take another partner. It spends most of it's time gliding way up high where it can keep an eye on things, and only comes to rest to feed or sleep. It can fly hundreds of miles a day.
Thats all I know for sure about the condor, but I've been told lots of stories about condors and sometimes it's hard to separate fact from myth. My friend Daniel claims that the male condor, when it reaches old age, knows that it's time to go, so commits suicide by diving full speed into a mountain and ending it all. I like this story and can just imagine the old condor flying around and saying goodbye to family and friends before he heads off to what he probably thinks is a new life on the other side. However my pal and teacher Eric is not quite so keen on this story, probably an Incan myth/legend, and he reckons that the old bird thinks he is still a young thing and can fly as fast as he could in the days of his youth, but of course he can't, loses control of his dive and crashes to his death. Eric reckons the condor is unable to reflect on life, like us humans and so could not decide to finish it all. But if not how can he think he wants to fly like a young thing. I think overall I prefer Daniel's myth, and who knows anyway what that fine bird thinks?
Daniel also reckons that the condors do a special little dance when they find carrion to feed on, as a kind of celebration, and then the chief bird has to eat first before the rest can pile in. Eric reckons the condor is a lonesome soul and doesn't like group activity, and has never heard about the dance.
The Incas of old venerated the condor, especially as it kept the earth clean of rotting carcasses and the earth was worshipped too, pachamama, and still is in some places. This is why you might see older Andean folk, when they drink chicha, will pour a little out on the earth first to feed pachamama. So I'm told anyway.
The reason for all this about the condor is that I'm off to Pisac, in the Sacred Valley tomorrow to visit the market there and also to go to the zoo where I will be able to see some condors. Apparently held there to recover from injuries and then released when they are fit. So they say but I'm a bit sceptical. These will be my first condors.
If you're from Peru and you're reading this and it's a load of crap please let me know so I can educate myself. I would hate to be misleading folk around the world.
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Pentwater
Pentwater is a small town on the east coast of Lake Michigan where Michigan folk like to spend their summers and where I spent a few days some years back with my US cousins and their families. I went to a wedding there and also had an excellent swim in the Lake. Though no one else wanted to join me. Which reminds me I've yet to swim in the Pacific Ocean, which I should do seeing as I've swum in the Atlantic Ocean, The North Sea (at Kieran's instigation I hasten to add, almost drowned me the so and so) and in the Med. Mind you the waters off Miraflores are not exactly inviting so may have to do my Pacific swimming elsewhere.
Anyway to get back to Michigan and my Pentwater story, I was chatting to one of my Spanish classmates who comes from Chicago and telling her about my visit to her fine city and how much I enjoyed it and hoped to go back one day. I mentioned that we had gone up to a place called Pentwater after our days in Chicago and wondered if she knew it, and to my astonishment not only did she know it, but she has spent all her summers up there.
Her family have been going there since the early seventies, I'm not sure if they own a place there, like my US cousins, but probably they do.
I know there are a few people who read my blog from time to time who have very strong connections to Pentwater, life changing connections for one or two of you, I would say. So maybe you know this young lady and her family. Just in case you do her name is Sarah Klaiber, and her father is a friend of Johnny Schwarz and his brothers, who are apparently a well known clan in the town.
I reckon that must be getting close to the six degrees of separation theory, though I don't quite know how to get to Kevin Bacon from here, nevertheless it's a strange and pleasantly enjoyable coincidence at least for the purposes of this post.
I would love to hear from those of you with Pentwater connections if you have heard about or know these folk. And Don K when are you bringing your mum to Scotland?
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Pachacutec
This is my four hundreth posting to this blog so I thought a picture of the mighty Pachacutec up there on his lonesome in La Plaza de Armas in Cuzco was appropriate to celebrate the event. Perhaps the greatest of all the Incas he seems to be pointing the way to a better future.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Degrees of Separation... how many?
Yesterday I met Doug who comes from Ontario, Canada and has come to Cusco to do the Inca Trail but can't because it's fully booked, so no more spaces, so he's off to do another trail, which involves mountain biking, river rafting and trekking all the way to Machu Picchu. I said that Doug was a good Scottish name and unsurprisingly he told me that his grandfather came from Arbroath and emigrated to Canada many years ago.
Doug and his mother or maybe he said his father, visited Scotland last year and spent some time in Arbroath, where he had a pint of real ale in his grandfather's local pub. He waxed lyrical about Arbroath Smokies, which is haddock smoked in a special fashion known only to a few, or maybe more than a few. It has a very strong taste that is just delicious with a plate of potatoes, but probably does untold damage to the blood pressure and other vital symptoms. So not to every ones taste I don't suppose but definitely worth trying.
It's not every day one has a chat about Arbroath and it's most famous product and to be doing so in faraway Cusco seems correct in some way. We had a chat about all the places he'd visited, including my own fine city of Edinburgh. He somehow managed to get a ticket for T in the Park, Scotland's second best music festival. How he managed it I didn't ask but he thought it was one of the best he'd been to, where everyone was stoned or drunk or both and the music was loud. It was a bit wet too, but no-one worries about these small difficulties in Scotland. He left me to go off to his bed as he had an early start for his trip to Machu Picchu the next day and would be his last night in a bed for a few days. Says he will look out for me to tell me how it all went.
This was meant to be a two story post about degrees of separation but I've run out of time. It's Saturday night and one must go out to play....
Doug and his mother or maybe he said his father, visited Scotland last year and spent some time in Arbroath, where he had a pint of real ale in his grandfather's local pub. He waxed lyrical about Arbroath Smokies, which is haddock smoked in a special fashion known only to a few, or maybe more than a few. It has a very strong taste that is just delicious with a plate of potatoes, but probably does untold damage to the blood pressure and other vital symptoms. So not to every ones taste I don't suppose but definitely worth trying.
It's not every day one has a chat about Arbroath and it's most famous product and to be doing so in faraway Cusco seems correct in some way. We had a chat about all the places he'd visited, including my own fine city of Edinburgh. He somehow managed to get a ticket for T in the Park, Scotland's second best music festival. How he managed it I didn't ask but he thought it was one of the best he'd been to, where everyone was stoned or drunk or both and the music was loud. It was a bit wet too, but no-one worries about these small difficulties in Scotland. He left me to go off to his bed as he had an early start for his trip to Machu Picchu the next day and would be his last night in a bed for a few days. Says he will look out for me to tell me how it all went.
This was meant to be a two story post about degrees of separation but I've run out of time. It's Saturday night and one must go out to play....
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Me and Bobby McGee
There I was sitting in La Plaza de Armas watching the world go by and thinking I should be doing my Spanish homework but putting it off for a few more minutes to enjoy the scene around me whilst avoiding all the kids offering to shoeshine me out of existence, when along came this beautiful young girl and sat herself down beside me and starting singing "Fever", which I'm sure is a song you are all familiar with from years gone by. A lovely wee tune I think we can all agree on.
I could hardly believe that I was giving this young woman fever all through the night being as I'd only known her for a few minutes and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe we'd met in some other existence. But I guess she must have had someone else in mind.
We got chatting and she told me her name was Haylly, which is a Quechua name, though she does not speak the language. She loves singing , it's her passion and is hoping to get some gigs locally with some jazz/blues group she knows.
Then her friend Albero turned up with his guitar and happy attitude. He's an architect student in his third year but not at classes because of the teachers/lecturers strike. We got to talking about music we all liked and books and stuff. He is a Morrison fan, Jim not Van. Don't think he knows much Van. But he likes to call himself Al Morrison, as a tribute to the late Jim. So Haylly says, but she may have been in jest.
Meantime she has taken his guitar and is playing away happily and singing some Beatles tunes. She said she knew some Dylan songs but then began to sing a Janis Joplin song I'd never heard before. I asked her if she knew "Me and Bobby McGee", which she did and a couple of minutes later she is singing and playing it for me. She knew the whole song, beginning to end, and it's not a short song to remember. She sang it beautifully, and a few wise people stopped to listen.
You can find Janis Joplin singing it on YouTube. Or even Kris Kristofferson himself, its one of his finest songs, if you don't Sunday Morning Coming Down and Help me make it Through the Night, and a few others which escape me right now.
I just love being in Cusco. It's moments like these and many others that make it all so worth while, never mind the joys of spending time with the kids at La Policia. I cannot imagine any beautiful young girls back in Edinburgh, stopping by to sing me a song; though there was one time when someone sang Lakes of Pontchartrain for me in a private, intimate performance but that was different, we were both young and beautiful. I still am of course. You can still find a very young Paul Brady sing that particular song on YouTube.
Albero was telling me he was an anarchist himself and didn't think we should have to work for a living. He was taken aback when he heard that I'd had the misfortune (or fortune depending on how you see it) of having worked for 40 years. I don't think the idea appealed to him and I could see the sense of what he was saying as we sat there in La Plaza listening to Haylly serenade us.
I showed him the book I was reading "The Wild Places", as he was fond of all things natural, mountains and rivers and stuff. He produced a mathematics text book from his bag, and said "for me this is beautiful". Impressive young guy, hope he finds all he seeks in life. I'm sure he will make a fine architect. My second architect of this trip.
Haylly, not to be left out of things, produced her current reading, which turned out to be some book by a fifteenth century Italian philosopher, name of which and whom I forget, but had an introduction by Borges, who was a fan.
Enough rambling for now. I might put a picture of Haylly up but I'm not sure as I'm in it as well, and don't wish to upset my readers. I handed my camera to Albero to take a photo, which is not something I would normally do, but he decided to include me in it as well, so I took one of him.
Teachers are still on strike, after two weeks. There were big demos in Lima and other cities yesterday, but not in Cusco, or at least not that I'd seen anyway. The workers united.
I could hardly believe that I was giving this young woman fever all through the night being as I'd only known her for a few minutes and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe we'd met in some other existence. But I guess she must have had someone else in mind.
We got chatting and she told me her name was Haylly, which is a Quechua name, though she does not speak the language. She loves singing , it's her passion and is hoping to get some gigs locally with some jazz/blues group she knows.
Then her friend Albero turned up with his guitar and happy attitude. He's an architect student in his third year but not at classes because of the teachers/lecturers strike. We got to talking about music we all liked and books and stuff. He is a Morrison fan, Jim not Van. Don't think he knows much Van. But he likes to call himself Al Morrison, as a tribute to the late Jim. So Haylly says, but she may have been in jest.
Meantime she has taken his guitar and is playing away happily and singing some Beatles tunes. She said she knew some Dylan songs but then began to sing a Janis Joplin song I'd never heard before. I asked her if she knew "Me and Bobby McGee", which she did and a couple of minutes later she is singing and playing it for me. She knew the whole song, beginning to end, and it's not a short song to remember. She sang it beautifully, and a few wise people stopped to listen.
You can find Janis Joplin singing it on YouTube. Or even Kris Kristofferson himself, its one of his finest songs, if you don't Sunday Morning Coming Down and Help me make it Through the Night, and a few others which escape me right now.
I just love being in Cusco. It's moments like these and many others that make it all so worth while, never mind the joys of spending time with the kids at La Policia. I cannot imagine any beautiful young girls back in Edinburgh, stopping by to sing me a song; though there was one time when someone sang Lakes of Pontchartrain for me in a private, intimate performance but that was different, we were both young and beautiful. I still am of course. You can still find a very young Paul Brady sing that particular song on YouTube.
Albero was telling me he was an anarchist himself and didn't think we should have to work for a living. He was taken aback when he heard that I'd had the misfortune (or fortune depending on how you see it) of having worked for 40 years. I don't think the idea appealed to him and I could see the sense of what he was saying as we sat there in La Plaza listening to Haylly serenade us.
I showed him the book I was reading "The Wild Places", as he was fond of all things natural, mountains and rivers and stuff. He produced a mathematics text book from his bag, and said "for me this is beautiful". Impressive young guy, hope he finds all he seeks in life. I'm sure he will make a fine architect. My second architect of this trip.
Haylly, not to be left out of things, produced her current reading, which turned out to be some book by a fifteenth century Italian philosopher, name of which and whom I forget, but had an introduction by Borges, who was a fan.
Enough rambling for now. I might put a picture of Haylly up but I'm not sure as I'm in it as well, and don't wish to upset my readers. I handed my camera to Albero to take a photo, which is not something I would normally do, but he decided to include me in it as well, so I took one of him.
Teachers are still on strike, after two weeks. There were big demos in Lima and other cities yesterday, but not in Cusco, or at least not that I'd seen anyway. The workers united.
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Padre Donald
The boy with no name is still at La Policia de la Familia, but is now called Antonio, but still no contact from parents or anyone else. That's him in the photo with another volunteer who is helping out there too. He's a lovely wee chap and seems content enough. Hopefully he will be found a place in a good orphanage soon, with lots of love and care on the go.
Guido is still with us. Goodness knows where he will end up. He says he is very bored which is no surprise really. He's been stuck there for a long time, weeks in fact. He seems to have toned down his aggression. He's a very bright intelligent boy. Whenever we play memory games he always wins. I get them to read some poems to each other from a book I bought for them which consists of poems about Peru and its history etc. He can read a poem beautifully and next day he will remember some lines from it. Such a shame his life chances are so restricted. Lets hope he will meet someone who can help him achieve a little of his potential.
That's him in the middle of the game of twister. And yes I know there shouldn't be three of them playing all at once, but the boys make their own rules which they like, and game ends with a total collapse and no winner, which amuses them.
I met the man who paints The Stadium of Light the other day in some cafe where I was helping him make his order. That's where Sunderland FC play for those not acquainted with English Premier League. He tells me he's met Steve Bruce who was very amiable and chatty, but he's not yet had the pleasure of meeting the saintly Martin. So that's a nice job to have. He's in Peru with his wife to do the Inca Trail, but he was suffering badly from the altitude. I told him he needs about four or five days to acclimatise, so fact he was off to the trail next day didn't seem too encouraging. I didn't know when I told him five days that he was off the next day. Geordies are softies don't you think?
My hairdresser here in Cusco is called Juan. When he heard my name he told me he knew one other Scottish Donald, except he was a priest called Padre Donald. Takes his confessions etc. So good to see that us Scots and especially the Donalds are doing our bit. I guess he will be a Celtic supporter so will look out for him tomorrow watching the gemme in some Irish bar.
Guido is still with us. Goodness knows where he will end up. He says he is very bored which is no surprise really. He's been stuck there for a long time, weeks in fact. He seems to have toned down his aggression. He's a very bright intelligent boy. Whenever we play memory games he always wins. I get them to read some poems to each other from a book I bought for them which consists of poems about Peru and its history etc. He can read a poem beautifully and next day he will remember some lines from it. Such a shame his life chances are so restricted. Lets hope he will meet someone who can help him achieve a little of his potential.
That's him in the middle of the game of twister. And yes I know there shouldn't be three of them playing all at once, but the boys make their own rules which they like, and game ends with a total collapse and no winner, which amuses them.
I met the man who paints The Stadium of Light the other day in some cafe where I was helping him make his order. That's where Sunderland FC play for those not acquainted with English Premier League. He tells me he's met Steve Bruce who was very amiable and chatty, but he's not yet had the pleasure of meeting the saintly Martin. So that's a nice job to have. He's in Peru with his wife to do the Inca Trail, but he was suffering badly from the altitude. I told him he needs about four or five days to acclimatise, so fact he was off to the trail next day didn't seem too encouraging. I didn't know when I told him five days that he was off the next day. Geordies are softies don't you think?
My hairdresser here in Cusco is called Juan. When he heard my name he told me he knew one other Scottish Donald, except he was a priest called Padre Donald. Takes his confessions etc. So good to see that us Scots and especially the Donalds are doing our bit. I guess he will be a Celtic supporter so will look out for him tomorrow watching the gemme in some Irish bar.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Gabino Aguirre Segovia
It rained in Cusco yesterday. Lets hope that climate change hasn't brought forward the start of the rainy season. Having said that it's a fine and sunny this morning, so maybe yesterday was a one off. I would hate to think the rain is following me around the world. Surely the heavens have sent me enough rain this year back in Edinburgh to do me a life time.
However perhaps the rain and the heavens brought me a piece of good fortune. I was sheltering under the eaves of a cafe in Plaza San Blas as I waited for my pal Ernesto to show up. As I was standing there watching the rain teaming down and folk running to cover their stalls and disappear for shelter I was joined by this old guy, well as old as me anyway, and we got into conversation as one does, about the weather and climate change and stuff like that. Funny how the weather is always a great way to get to know people, don't you think?
It was looking as if we would be there for some time and no sign of my pal so we introduced ourselves. Turns out that he is a Peruvian artist called Gabino Aguirre Segovia who paints and works with textiles. He told me that he is 80 years old and when I expressed some degree of astonishment he stuck his hand in his pocket and produced his DNI card ( that's his national ID card). He was a warm welcoming guy and happy to converse and tell me about his life and put up with my Spanish.
He has an exhibition starting tomorrow in Salon Contemporaneo de le Municipalidad del Cusco and he has invited me to attend the official opening at 7 o'clock tomorrow night. When the rain eventually stopped he went to his car and brought me back a copy of the catalogue and an invite. I will of course be going along and maybe even buy a painting, which he assures me are "muy economical". I can roll it up and stick in a tube to carry back to UK in my suitcase. I'm sure they will be able to provide such things at the exhibition and I can go back to collect it when it finishes on 29 September, just before I go back to Lima. Well lets see how it goes anyway.
Gabino is one of those older guys whom I find an inspiration as I get on in years myself and look to my retirement in a few months time. I've been lucky to have met a few people like him over the years, to provide inspiration and ideas. So Gabino helps me look forward to the next part of my life, though he doesn't realise it. Let's face it I guess I have far fewer years ahead of me than I have to look back on, so it's incumbent on me to make the most of them and to take all the inspiration I can find to help make the next few years as good as those that have disappeared in the distance. Where do all the years go to anyway?
Bob Dylan has been an inspiration to me ever since him and I were young together, give or take a years or two. Some day soon I will write about how I got to know Mr Dylan as it's a nice wee story, so if I forget someone should remind me. I reckon my relationship with Bob goes back pretty near fifty years, with all it's ups and downs, though mostly ups, and now as we both get on in years and he produces some of his finest work at the age of 70 he is even more of an inspiration. Thank you Bob, and thanks too to the person who first made me listen to him. You know who you are!
I have to leave this post now, but I will write about someone who has inspired me on a personal level over the past few years in Edinburgh in a later posting.
The trip to the womens' collective/micro business was postponed at last minute but will be back on next week. Hence no report on it so far, but more soon I hope.
However perhaps the rain and the heavens brought me a piece of good fortune. I was sheltering under the eaves of a cafe in Plaza San Blas as I waited for my pal Ernesto to show up. As I was standing there watching the rain teaming down and folk running to cover their stalls and disappear for shelter I was joined by this old guy, well as old as me anyway, and we got into conversation as one does, about the weather and climate change and stuff like that. Funny how the weather is always a great way to get to know people, don't you think?
It was looking as if we would be there for some time and no sign of my pal so we introduced ourselves. Turns out that he is a Peruvian artist called Gabino Aguirre Segovia who paints and works with textiles. He told me that he is 80 years old and when I expressed some degree of astonishment he stuck his hand in his pocket and produced his DNI card ( that's his national ID card). He was a warm welcoming guy and happy to converse and tell me about his life and put up with my Spanish.
He has an exhibition starting tomorrow in Salon Contemporaneo de le Municipalidad del Cusco and he has invited me to attend the official opening at 7 o'clock tomorrow night. When the rain eventually stopped he went to his car and brought me back a copy of the catalogue and an invite. I will of course be going along and maybe even buy a painting, which he assures me are "muy economical". I can roll it up and stick in a tube to carry back to UK in my suitcase. I'm sure they will be able to provide such things at the exhibition and I can go back to collect it when it finishes on 29 September, just before I go back to Lima. Well lets see how it goes anyway.
Gabino is one of those older guys whom I find an inspiration as I get on in years myself and look to my retirement in a few months time. I've been lucky to have met a few people like him over the years, to provide inspiration and ideas. So Gabino helps me look forward to the next part of my life, though he doesn't realise it. Let's face it I guess I have far fewer years ahead of me than I have to look back on, so it's incumbent on me to make the most of them and to take all the inspiration I can find to help make the next few years as good as those that have disappeared in the distance. Where do all the years go to anyway?
Bob Dylan has been an inspiration to me ever since him and I were young together, give or take a years or two. Some day soon I will write about how I got to know Mr Dylan as it's a nice wee story, so if I forget someone should remind me. I reckon my relationship with Bob goes back pretty near fifty years, with all it's ups and downs, though mostly ups, and now as we both get on in years and he produces some of his finest work at the age of 70 he is even more of an inspiration. Thank you Bob, and thanks too to the person who first made me listen to him. You know who you are!
I have to leave this post now, but I will write about someone who has inspired me on a personal level over the past few years in Edinburgh in a later posting.
The trip to the womens' collective/micro business was postponed at last minute but will be back on next week. Hence no report on it so far, but more soon I hope.
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Saturday
Saturday morning and I've been up since 7 o'clock. My dawn chorus here is the noise coming from the rail shunting yard nearby which fortunately coincides with my getting up time, though of course one would prefer a more avian type chorus such as I'm blessed with in Edinburgh.
I've been watching the Man U game since 9 o'clock which I guess means a 4 o'clock kick off back in Manchester. Chicharito missed a penalty after 5 minutes but we're now three up and Powell has come on for Giggs and Van Persie for Scholes. Very satisfactory. I see Arsenal are going well this season. Wonder what Van Persie will think if they win the league this year? Powell has just scored a goal which Scholes himself would be proud of and Buttner has his first.
Last night I took a taxi home from La Plaza as it was a bit late and don't like to walk home much later than 9.30 or so, unles I've got company. Taximan was as per usual in a hurry. I keep telling the taxi drivers that it's quicker going down Ave El but they see to think they know best so they go another route.
This takes us round the back way and along a very narrow one way street with tall buildings either side so it seems as if the buildings are crowding in on top of you. Can't remember what it's called. It has a pavement (sidewalk) down the left which is no more than a ledge really but folk still walk along it. Along the other side the pavement is a little bigger, maybe about two feet or so.
The Spaniards didn't think of Peruvian taxis when they built on top of old Inca streets. This particular street is always busy with pedestrians on both sides, and there's a club or disco half way along so at night it's even busier. This doesn't cause my taximan to go any slower as he belts along swerving round the pedestrians as we go even though he can see a queue of cars at the end waiting to hit the main drag.
Once we hit the main road we are diverted by the traffic cops and go another way altogether which takes us right into what seems to be a riot going on. Streets are crowded with people and still we go full steam ahead. We hit another queue of traffic, mostly other taxis which he tries to overtake going into oncoming traffic and when this doesn't work he goes inside, nearly taking out a few rioters (as I thought they were).
I asked him what was going on and turns out it was a rock concert crowd waiting to get in or maybe coming out, but in any case very excited. Meantime a policeman on a motorbike is riding alongside us telling this guy to hurry along even though we were in a line of traffic. Father Ted came to mind as I'm thinking to myself why are you telling this mad fecking fecker to go any faster? But your man gave it a shot as I knew he would.
We eventually reached a street I knew and we were home safely. I was in such a state of excitement myelf I gave the guy a one sol tip for his heroic efforts. This is a lot as taxis here do not get tips as a rule.
I'm off to get a Peruvian haircut now and meet a pal at two o'clock. Man U have won and Stoke have managed an excellent draw with City. So happy days. ps I have some news for USA readers regarding Pentwater so look out for that as I know some of you have been know to spend time there.
I've been watching the Man U game since 9 o'clock which I guess means a 4 o'clock kick off back in Manchester. Chicharito missed a penalty after 5 minutes but we're now three up and Powell has come on for Giggs and Van Persie for Scholes. Very satisfactory. I see Arsenal are going well this season. Wonder what Van Persie will think if they win the league this year? Powell has just scored a goal which Scholes himself would be proud of and Buttner has his first.
Last night I took a taxi home from La Plaza as it was a bit late and don't like to walk home much later than 9.30 or so, unles I've got company. Taximan was as per usual in a hurry. I keep telling the taxi drivers that it's quicker going down Ave El but they see to think they know best so they go another route.
This takes us round the back way and along a very narrow one way street with tall buildings either side so it seems as if the buildings are crowding in on top of you. Can't remember what it's called. It has a pavement (sidewalk) down the left which is no more than a ledge really but folk still walk along it. Along the other side the pavement is a little bigger, maybe about two feet or so.
The Spaniards didn't think of Peruvian taxis when they built on top of old Inca streets. This particular street is always busy with pedestrians on both sides, and there's a club or disco half way along so at night it's even busier. This doesn't cause my taximan to go any slower as he belts along swerving round the pedestrians as we go even though he can see a queue of cars at the end waiting to hit the main drag.
Once we hit the main road we are diverted by the traffic cops and go another way altogether which takes us right into what seems to be a riot going on. Streets are crowded with people and still we go full steam ahead. We hit another queue of traffic, mostly other taxis which he tries to overtake going into oncoming traffic and when this doesn't work he goes inside, nearly taking out a few rioters (as I thought they were).
I asked him what was going on and turns out it was a rock concert crowd waiting to get in or maybe coming out, but in any case very excited. Meantime a policeman on a motorbike is riding alongside us telling this guy to hurry along even though we were in a line of traffic. Father Ted came to mind as I'm thinking to myself why are you telling this mad fecking fecker to go any faster? But your man gave it a shot as I knew he would.
We eventually reached a street I knew and we were home safely. I was in such a state of excitement myelf I gave the guy a one sol tip for his heroic efforts. This is a lot as taxis here do not get tips as a rule.
I'm off to get a Peruvian haircut now and meet a pal at two o'clock. Man U have won and Stoke have managed an excellent draw with City. So happy days. ps I have some news for USA readers regarding Pentwater so look out for that as I know some of you have been know to spend time there.
Friday, September 14, 2012
Maté de la Felicidad
I've been eating in Restaurante Granja Heidi now for a few years and always have their house maté (infusion) which is made to their own secret recipe. It consists of seven different herbs and you can have honey added, if such is your desire, but not mine as it makes it all too sweet. It's a delicious maté and better for me than chicha morada, which, though also delicious, has lots of sugar added.
Anyway, the point of all this, is that the restaurant owner insists on keeping the ingredients a family secret. He has had botanists coming from all over the world but none have been able to identify all of the herbs, which he says are not uncommon, which I guess must be the case as he would not be able to find enough if they were truly unusual.
He tells me that South America's most famous botanist (Argentinian I think he said) has identified most but not all of them. The poor man must be in some state. He will go to his death bed wondering. I had been hoping to write on my blog what it was made of, but as you can see this is not going to be possible. So we will all just have to wonder, bit like the coca cola family, don't you think.
I was in La Bondiet cafe last night awaiting my pal's arrival. So decided to try their fresh fruit salad (ensalada de fruta), which was absolutely enormous. It consists of nine different fruits and comes in this huge bowl along with a little jug of yogurt and a bowl of granola. Because it was fruit I decided it would do no harm, but of course fruit has lots of natural sugar, so when I got home my sugar level had gone through the roof and remains so this evening. What to do?
Today I got chatting to a lovely young woman, Lorraine, from California. We were photographing the same building, except she was doing it from a professional point of view as she is an architect and designs hotels, and she's working on one now in Cusco. We had a nice wee chat about the state of the world and went our ways. She's off to do the Inca Trail. A credit to her country I thought.
Finally for tonight I thought you should know that the street I live in here is named after Peru's greatest cyclist, Ramon Zavaleta. All I can find out about him is that he took part in the men's road race at LA Olympics in 1984, but didn't manage to finish the course. So not quite up to the standards of our own Sir Chris, though I am told on good authority that he did win some important races in South America.
Anyway, the point of all this, is that the restaurant owner insists on keeping the ingredients a family secret. He has had botanists coming from all over the world but none have been able to identify all of the herbs, which he says are not uncommon, which I guess must be the case as he would not be able to find enough if they were truly unusual.
He tells me that South America's most famous botanist (Argentinian I think he said) has identified most but not all of them. The poor man must be in some state. He will go to his death bed wondering. I had been hoping to write on my blog what it was made of, but as you can see this is not going to be possible. So we will all just have to wonder, bit like the coca cola family, don't you think.
I was in La Bondiet cafe last night awaiting my pal's arrival. So decided to try their fresh fruit salad (ensalada de fruta), which was absolutely enormous. It consists of nine different fruits and comes in this huge bowl along with a little jug of yogurt and a bowl of granola. Because it was fruit I decided it would do no harm, but of course fruit has lots of natural sugar, so when I got home my sugar level had gone through the roof and remains so this evening. What to do?
Today I got chatting to a lovely young woman, Lorraine, from California. We were photographing the same building, except she was doing it from a professional point of view as she is an architect and designs hotels, and she's working on one now in Cusco. We had a nice wee chat about the state of the world and went our ways. She's off to do the Inca Trail. A credit to her country I thought.
Finally for tonight I thought you should know that the street I live in here is named after Peru's greatest cyclist, Ramon Zavaleta. All I can find out about him is that he took part in the men's road race at LA Olympics in 1984, but didn't manage to finish the course. So not quite up to the standards of our own Sir Chris, though I am told on good authority that he did win some important races in South America.
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Boy with no name
We had a young boy in La Policia de la Familia today, picked up from the streets of Cuzco last night, abandoned there. He's about eight years old and unable to speak or explain anything. He clearly has learning difficulties. No-one knows who he is or where he is from. A boy with no name or identity. He answers yes (si) to all questions, and just smiles at you, with his big brown eyes.
Unless his parents come for him, which seems unlikely now, he will eventually find his way to a good orphanage where he will be looked after and given some of the love and affection he needs. Poor wee chap was so dirty and hungry and cold, it having been a cold night last night and there being no such luxuries as heating for these kids at La Policia.
As the saying goes it fair makes you think. Police women were quite nice to him, but I had to ask them to take him for a shower, which they did and managed to find him a pair of cleanish trousers and a top. So he was much better though dribbles all the time.
I'm busy with these kids every morning and enjoying it, though enjoyment is maybe not the right word to use, when I see all these kids in such conditions and so distressed and worried and tearful. So not enjoyment but a certain satisfaction. I wish I could spend longer with them but its just too tiring, and my diabetic control could be better, so all in all a morning there is good going.
I've bought a beautiful new book for them tonight so should have some educational stuff for them tomorrow.
Today I saw this young couple in my regular restaurant, the girl wearing a Keele University top, so went to speak to them about my visits there back in the sixties, and my nights in the students union there, where I saw many bands, including the great Pentangle, just after their first album was released, maybe 67 or 68.
Well it turns out that she goes there and that they come from Stoke on Trent, where as some of you may know I spent three very happy years. Such a small world don't you think? They were a lovely couple doing the tour. They had never heard of Pentangle, but I guess that's no surprise, but they promised to seek them out. I guess there must be some of their stuff on you tube. However they were Stoke City supporters so we had a wee chat about our passion for the potters.
I was going to tell you about the six women from USA but it's late so will leave that for another day. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going on a visit to a very special project juat outside Cusco, which is a micro finance business type thing helping some of the poorest women hereabouts provide for their families. So looking forward to that and more later.
Unless his parents come for him, which seems unlikely now, he will eventually find his way to a good orphanage where he will be looked after and given some of the love and affection he needs. Poor wee chap was so dirty and hungry and cold, it having been a cold night last night and there being no such luxuries as heating for these kids at La Policia.
As the saying goes it fair makes you think. Police women were quite nice to him, but I had to ask them to take him for a shower, which they did and managed to find him a pair of cleanish trousers and a top. So he was much better though dribbles all the time.
I'm busy with these kids every morning and enjoying it, though enjoyment is maybe not the right word to use, when I see all these kids in such conditions and so distressed and worried and tearful. So not enjoyment but a certain satisfaction. I wish I could spend longer with them but its just too tiring, and my diabetic control could be better, so all in all a morning there is good going.
I've bought a beautiful new book for them tonight so should have some educational stuff for them tomorrow.
Today I saw this young couple in my regular restaurant, the girl wearing a Keele University top, so went to speak to them about my visits there back in the sixties, and my nights in the students union there, where I saw many bands, including the great Pentangle, just after their first album was released, maybe 67 or 68.
Well it turns out that she goes there and that they come from Stoke on Trent, where as some of you may know I spent three very happy years. Such a small world don't you think? They were a lovely couple doing the tour. They had never heard of Pentangle, but I guess that's no surprise, but they promised to seek them out. I guess there must be some of their stuff on you tube. However they were Stoke City supporters so we had a wee chat about our passion for the potters.
I was going to tell you about the six women from USA but it's late so will leave that for another day. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going on a visit to a very special project juat outside Cusco, which is a micro finance business type thing helping some of the poorest women hereabouts provide for their families. So looking forward to that and more later.
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Cusco, Andy and an Aussie Intervention
There I was sitting in a cafe in Cusco last night trying to follow the tennis on the Grauniad's website, having watched most of it at my apartment, when this Australian woman joined me and was insistent on conversation, which normally is fine by me, but when it's the last set and our boy is about to make history, well one could do without these pesky Australian women causing a diversion. But I was typically polite and switched off my iphone in order to give her my full attention.
Turns out she was in Cusco with her parents and they were heading off to do the Inca Trail in a couple of days, so I was able to give her the benefit of my experiences on the Trail, which I did in 2005, would you believe? Well yes you would I'm sure, seeing as I say so. She had sent her parents off to bed to rest, them being 60 years old (youngsters really), and she had popped out to see Cusco by night.
Anyway to cut a long story short I explained about my predicament re the tennis and she was very understanding so we followed the last couple of games on my iphone together and then had a wee shouty of yippee and celebratory cup of latte, though she preferred cappuccino, and then we discussed why Australia no longer produced great tennis players. We didn't know, but we were able to remember lots of names. She told me she was an accountant, and she was pleased to hear that my wee brother was one too. She tells me he must be very rich being an accountant in Edinburgh and that.
Cusco is as beautiful as ever, hot during the day but cold at night, one needs to wear different clothes in the day to those for night time excursions. My friend Miller has left Cusco and is now working on a cruiser in the Mediterranean so I miss his company and Spanish assistance. I met for a few hours last Thursday in Lima, before his flight to Europe, Milan via Amsterdam, on Friday. Needless to say he was very excited and maybe a bit nervous. His first time for so many things. Lets hope all goes well for him.
I'm writing this in my apartment, which now has wifi, new large flat screen tv and brand new suite. Very cosy, and wifi is great addition to my comforts. How did we manage in the centuries before wifi one can but wonder? Not be very techno myself its a complete mystery to me and having been able to do so much online is astonishing for a slight techno phobe, though getting better as time goes by.
I've started my Spanish class with Ana Maria as my teacher, and two other students, one from USA and other from New Zealand, so we're very cosmopolitan. Was trying to explain to Ana Maria about the delights of haggis, but not with much success, though she says she likes the sound of it. This came up in an exercise on el imperativo negativo, and don't ask me how we got there.
I've also started work in La Policia de la Familia yesterday. More later, but Guido was there. Apparently he's been in and out since my last visit last year. What a boy! A trifle aggressive but a nice kid none the less. Needs some loving care in his life but his chances of that at the age of 14 is zilch, lamentably.
Turns out she was in Cusco with her parents and they were heading off to do the Inca Trail in a couple of days, so I was able to give her the benefit of my experiences on the Trail, which I did in 2005, would you believe? Well yes you would I'm sure, seeing as I say so. She had sent her parents off to bed to rest, them being 60 years old (youngsters really), and she had popped out to see Cusco by night.
Anyway to cut a long story short I explained about my predicament re the tennis and she was very understanding so we followed the last couple of games on my iphone together and then had a wee shouty of yippee and celebratory cup of latte, though she preferred cappuccino, and then we discussed why Australia no longer produced great tennis players. We didn't know, but we were able to remember lots of names. She told me she was an accountant, and she was pleased to hear that my wee brother was one too. She tells me he must be very rich being an accountant in Edinburgh and that.
Cusco is as beautiful as ever, hot during the day but cold at night, one needs to wear different clothes in the day to those for night time excursions. My friend Miller has left Cusco and is now working on a cruiser in the Mediterranean so I miss his company and Spanish assistance. I met for a few hours last Thursday in Lima, before his flight to Europe, Milan via Amsterdam, on Friday. Needless to say he was very excited and maybe a bit nervous. His first time for so many things. Lets hope all goes well for him.
I'm writing this in my apartment, which now has wifi, new large flat screen tv and brand new suite. Very cosy, and wifi is great addition to my comforts. How did we manage in the centuries before wifi one can but wonder? Not be very techno myself its a complete mystery to me and having been able to do so much online is astonishing for a slight techno phobe, though getting better as time goes by.
I've started my Spanish class with Ana Maria as my teacher, and two other students, one from USA and other from New Zealand, so we're very cosmopolitan. Was trying to explain to Ana Maria about the delights of haggis, but not with much success, though she says she likes the sound of it. This came up in an exercise on el imperativo negativo, and don't ask me how we got there.
I've also started work in La Policia de la Familia yesterday. More later, but Guido was there. Apparently he's been in and out since my last visit last year. What a boy! A trifle aggressive but a nice kid none the less. Needs some loving care in his life but his chances of that at the age of 14 is zilch, lamentably.
Friday, September 07, 2012
Lima once more
Back in Lima once more but only until Sunday when I'm off to sunny Cusco which is just as well as it's a cloudy Lima that I've arrived in. Hopefully when I'm back here in October Lima will be back to normal weather.
Teachers in the state schools are on strike just now, at least for a few days. Not sure if it's well supported but it has got the government all excited and of course the strike has been declared illegal. Funny how it's the same all over.
Shining Path have made the news here as one of their leading lights seems to have been shot dead near Ayacucho. He's known only as "William" as he's used so many identities in the past. They haven't been able to establish his true identity so far but they insist they've got the right man. One can but wonder though.
Only other important piece of news involves the famous cats of Miraflores. One of their number got stuck up on the church steeple but the priest wouldn't let anyone climb up to rescue him. There is now a big argument going on, mainly on Facebook and twitter as to what should be done with the cats. There are numerous abandoned cats here in Parque Kennedy and folk continue to dump there unwanted cats. Some folk want the cats to be allowed to continue living here and some don't so they fight it out, though not quite coming to blows. I believe things have got quite heated though no blows exchanged so far.
This is being written on my iPad and it's not exactly brilliant using the Blogger app. Will have to try without using the app. The problem with it is that I can't see what I've typed as I go along.
Teachers in the state schools are on strike just now, at least for a few days. Not sure if it's well supported but it has got the government all excited and of course the strike has been declared illegal. Funny how it's the same all over.
Shining Path have made the news here as one of their leading lights seems to have been shot dead near Ayacucho. He's known only as "William" as he's used so many identities in the past. They haven't been able to establish his true identity so far but they insist they've got the right man. One can but wonder though.
Only other important piece of news involves the famous cats of Miraflores. One of their number got stuck up on the church steeple but the priest wouldn't let anyone climb up to rescue him. There is now a big argument going on, mainly on Facebook and twitter as to what should be done with the cats. There are numerous abandoned cats here in Parque Kennedy and folk continue to dump there unwanted cats. Some folk want the cats to be allowed to continue living here and some don't so they fight it out, though not quite coming to blows. I believe things have got quite heated though no blows exchanged so far.
This is being written on my iPad and it's not exactly brilliant using the Blogger app. Will have to try without using the app. The problem with it is that I can't see what I've typed as I go along.
Saturday, September 01, 2012
TEMPEST
A new Dylan album is always an important event in all our lives. One still gets that thrill of anticipation waiting for the first listen that one just does not get with any other artiste.
And I feel even more excited than normal waiting for his latest, which will be released in about ten days time. The man is over 70 now and no sign of him hanging up his guitar and putting his feet up. For which one can only feel truly grateful not to say inspired.
Reason for this post right now is that I've just seen the album being reviewed on BBC2 and Paul Morley almost wetting himself with excitement as he couldn't wait to tell us all how brilliant it is. As good as Blood on the Tracks or even Blonde on Blonde he said. Which is high praise indeed.
In fact all the reviewers were ecstatic about it. Morley also called Bob a psychedelic historian, whatever one of them may be, it sounds like fun anyway. I hope that's how it's spelt, it's a long time since I've had to use that word.
It's a double album, like Blonde on Blonde, for those of you who remember such pleasures. One song, about the Titanic is said to be 45 verses long, but I think what's her name was probably exaggerating, just a little. Also has Bob's tribute song to his friend John Lennon, which for me is enough on its own to warrant the wait.
So all in all I'm even more excited than normal waiting the big event. As I will be in Peru at the time of its release I think I shall have to buy it from iTunes, and get the cd when I get back to UK. Await further reports on here asap.
And I feel even more excited than normal waiting for his latest, which will be released in about ten days time. The man is over 70 now and no sign of him hanging up his guitar and putting his feet up. For which one can only feel truly grateful not to say inspired.
Reason for this post right now is that I've just seen the album being reviewed on BBC2 and Paul Morley almost wetting himself with excitement as he couldn't wait to tell us all how brilliant it is. As good as Blood on the Tracks or even Blonde on Blonde he said. Which is high praise indeed.
In fact all the reviewers were ecstatic about it. Morley also called Bob a psychedelic historian, whatever one of them may be, it sounds like fun anyway. I hope that's how it's spelt, it's a long time since I've had to use that word.
It's a double album, like Blonde on Blonde, for those of you who remember such pleasures. One song, about the Titanic is said to be 45 verses long, but I think what's her name was probably exaggerating, just a little. Also has Bob's tribute song to his friend John Lennon, which for me is enough on its own to warrant the wait.
So all in all I'm even more excited than normal waiting the big event. As I will be in Peru at the time of its release I think I shall have to buy it from iTunes, and get the cd when I get back to UK. Await further reports on here asap.
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