Lewis on a bench in Holyrood

 

Lewis in the Park July 2007

 

 

 

Qoricancha

At Qoricancha, Ave el Sol

This is Qoricancha (Koricancha) which is opposite Maximo Nivel in Ave el Sol. The photo was taken by Eber.

Qoricancha was one of the most important temples in the Inca empire. It was home to 4,000 priests and also the main astronomical observatory for the Incas. Dedicated to worship of the sun, the temple was a glittering palace of gold: Qoricancha means "courtyard of gold" in Quechua.

Its walls were lined with gold panels, housed life size gold figures, solid gold altars, and a huge golden sun. Much of the wealth was removed to pay ransom for the captive Inca Atahualpa at the time of the Spanish conquest, but the Spaniards looted the temple anyway and emptied it of gold and used the polished stone walls to build the Dominican Convent of Santo Domingo on the site.

The Road to Chile

This is the road to Chile just south of Lima. Some day
I will drive down this road to Chile.

The Pacific Ocean near Lima

A farewell party

I leave here tomorrow morning and have just said all my goodbyes to everyone at Maximo Nivel. Its been such a hectic few weeks and I've met so many people, and have so much to think about. Tonight the staff here gave me a gift of a beautiful bound notebook with lots of messages written for me. I had to stop reading them as I was going to cry. Will read on plane tomorrow.

Yesterday was my last day at La Policia and the other volunteers who work there organised a party for me. Its was most unexpected. The children all did drawings for me. More drawings. So many I will have to pay extra for my baggage. The literate ones wrote me really kind messages, which say lots of nice things. I will post some of them when I get back and have more time. One boy told me that Peru waits for me with open arms. Lots more.

I saw Fernando in the street and I watched him from across the road as he did some gentle shop lifting. He is ace at it. He came to MN and borrowed one sole off Heidi. We think the police have just let him out to get rid of him. He says he goes back but I reckon he is back on the streets. Certainly not been seen at La Policia for last few days.

Robin and Eber were here with me today. They will miss me lots and me them. Maybe I will come back and open that restaurant Eber wants.

Must go now. PS the kids made me dance. I survived. My blood pressure must have been sky high.

Mandela's Bar, Saturday Night

Saturday night I went to Mandela's Bar for the last time, at least this time round. The band were on tremendous form. I reckon they knew it was my last night so they rocked the joint one more time just for me. At least that's what I like to imagine. They are a seven piece band in quite a small room, playing various instruments, some of which I have never seen the like, and they all sing. Just brilliant.

I've put some pics in this posting from the bar, but I can't put any on of the band as they are still in my camera and every time I try to download from my camera it messes up my memory card. The nice man in the camera shop I use told me that this is a common problem with XD cards. The ten commandments is worth enlarging to check out how much more sensible they are than thou shalt not kill , or the one about graven images and no other gods etc. The latter is certainly ignored in these parts. Give me some Calvinistic austerity please, I've seen too many virgins for my own good and as for the images of Christ bleeding away up there and down there in his grave, well its all too much for a simple man like me.

Tonight I'm off to see my bluesmen for the last time. Hope he does his Dylan number for me.

Homework, cops and thieves.

Yesterday Eber and Robin came to meet me at Maximo Nivel. Its quiet on a Sunday and they can get to use the PCs to their hearts content. I managed to persuade them to bring in their homework and we did that together once they had enough of the PC games.

I did my Spanish and Eber worked on his Spanish writing, which I was able to help him with. Robin had some maths to do, long division, which he was having dificulty with. They seem to do it different here to what I'm used to, or at least was used to. So when Eber finished his the three of us got stuck into Robin's long division. It proved too much for me. I never was much good at maths, but I have clean forgotten how to do long division. I blame calculators. I just kept thinking where's Coinneach when you need him. You should be here to help these boys you know, seeing as you're the mathematician in the family. The end result was that Robin is going to ask his teacher for more help. I wish I had asked them to bring their homework before now, but as my mother would say you live and learn.

Last week Eber had told me that he wanted me to adopt him and starting calling me papa. Cheeky monkey. Yesterday he decided it would be better if I came back next year and the three of us opened a restaurant together and him and Robin would then have good jobs. Tempting. I think he gets the idea from Yanapay Restaurant. He's always asking about Yuri. They don't believe he comes from Peru. I think this is because of the social class diference. Yuri comes from a totally different social background and they are not used to mixing with that class. But they do fine.

Eber and I had a discussion about religion and belief the other day. He is a believer but does not like church. He thinks God is up in the sky watching us. I think I heard that one before. I didn't give him too much atheism. But he was interested in why I didn't believe. He's a good kid. They both are. We decided to agree to disagree.

I walked them to their bus stop and I had to stop to take their notebooks out of my bag. A policeman came up and gave Robin a clout on the head. Hard. this was totally without reason. He then turned to me and told me to watch my bag as these boys would steal from it given the chance. By then Robin was ready to cause a serious disturbance, and I could not blame him really. But I had to calm him down. I told the cop I knew them and that they were with me. I spoke their names and asked them to walk along with me so that he would be in no doubt that they were with me. He just looked at me as though I was nuts. Its no wonder these boys find it hard to accept the police. It was bloody awful. I was a bit worried that I might have a diplomatic incident on my hands. Fortunately Robin decided to walk away from the provocation. They rightly did not like the idea of me thinking they were a couple of thieves, which I don't think for one minute, but I do understand their being upset. They want me to think the best of them, and I do.

Cuesta San Blas

Cuesta San Blas with Jack's Cafe on the left hand corner. No queues yet as its early. I usually rest at the bottom before climbing home. Lots of cafes and one or two bars hereabouts.

This is the view of Cuesta San Blas half way up, as I go home. Usually its dark by then. Taxis come down this hill so you are forever stepping off the pavement to dodge people and back on to dodge taxis. Its a struggle to get to the top without resting. My blood pressure can't take all the excitement. I'm still trying to work out how I managed Camino Inca a couple years back.

Going down every morning is easy. The bakery El Buen Pastor is on the right.

Plaza San Blas and Atoqsayk'uchi

Plaza San Blas is just along from my apartment. The bar where the bluesmen play is just above this fountain. Its called Muse.

Atoqsayk'uchi is my street. Its the one at the end with the blue doors. My apartment is just up to the left from these doors. See previous posting for pic of apartment. Click for better view. The word is Quechua and means "tired coyote". Someone told me why but I forget. If I remember I will get back to it sometime. Its in Barrio San Blas.

My Apartment

My apartment is the door on the left and my balcony is the one you can see just above. Me gusta. This was taken early in the morning as the sun was rising.

My last pic of Fernando, unless he comes back

This is him looking cheeky and innocent as the day he was born, and with a feather in his hair. Sorry pic is on its side but thats the way it is and to change it I would need to save on this pc etc. I'm sure it can be viewed right way round tho.

Basilio listens to The Beatles

This was my last visit to him and he was a little unwell as can be seen. The photo is taken in the study room at Jesus mi Luz, which is where we did his homework etc. He's beginning to grow up now. I notice a difference since I arrived even. Not too sure what he thinks about going back to his dad.

"I will always remember you" - José

Last visit with Basilio

Today was my last time seeing Basilio this time round. He was unwell and in his bed when I called but got up when he saw me. We just sat in the study room and he did some drawings and listened to the Beatles on my mp3 player. He likes them a lot, as do many of the kids.

Some of the other boys joined us and played some games. I gave him an origami kit as a parting gift which he seemed to like.

It was a funny feeling leaving him and not knowing whether we will see each other again. Lets hope things work out for him at home and I've promised to visit him there if I come back next year.

I had meant to post a couple of pictures but me camera is playing up. Just seen the bad news from Wembley. Still we are league champs and will be even better next year.

José, Cristian and Jorge

I've worked with lots of kids in La Policia over the past few weeks and liked them all. Its hard to remember them all but some do stay in my memory for whatever reason. Mostly because they have been there longer than the rest but also because I got on so well with them, as I do with all of them really.

José has been there for a few weeks but expects to move to an orphanage today. Though he has been saying so for a few days now. I know the orphanage and will try to visit him before I leave next week if indeed he has gone. José likes to draw and has given me many drawings to take home as well as a dream catcher he made this week. I suggested he give it to Martha, another volunteer who had been helping him, but he insisted it was for me. Today he gave me another of his drawings on which he had written a message to say thanks and ended with "I will always remember you". He brought a tear to my eye and even now it moves me. He's 13 and has not had an easy life, like most of the kids there, so for him to go to the bother of writing me that message was for me one of the best things that have happened here. Its hard for me to explain to him how much it meant though I suspect he knows from my reaction.

Cristian is another boy who likes to draw for me and just gets on well with me. He did a drawing for me earlier in the week on which he had written the message, "God bless you and thank you for all your kindness to us all". Also a bit overwhelming to say the least. He's a good kid and for him to thank me on behalf of them all was a great moment. And all because I bring them a few apples every day and spend time playing and chatting to them. Brilliant kids. I wish I could do more for them.

Jorge is another boy who is no longer in La Policia de la Familia. He is also 13 years old and went home to stay with his parents again. Yesterday I had my lunch in a restaurant called Granje Heidi, which does an excellent 3 course lunch for 18 soles, about 3 pounds. I was sitting in Plaza de Armas letting relaxing in the sun before going back to MN, and minding my own business, when I saw this boy running towards me a shouting my name. Of course it was Jorge who was there selling postcards, which is a popular alternative to shoe shining. He was so pleased to see me I can hardly explain it. He'd said before he left the PF that he would come to see me at MN but I never really expected to see him there. He was sitting on the bench chatting to me and telling me about how he has to work because he has 10 younger brothers and sisters - they like big families here, good Catholic country - when a man came to talk to him. Jorge stayed facing me and did not turn round to answer the guy, who was asking him about how much money he had. Obviously up to no good. Eventually he left and I also had to leave, but he aked to come with me. As I was heading for MN I told him just to come along. I assume he wanted just to get away from the guy. I'm told there is some kind of "mafia" who control and take advantage of the children. He ended up back at MN with me and I introduced him to Heide and Eliza. He told me the man was bad to him and when I asked if he hit him he said yes. He played on the computers here for about an hour and was happy. I took him to his bus stop and sent him off home. He also goes to school at night 3 times a week, like Eber and Robin. I hope to see him again before I leave and he knows he can come to MN anytime.

No news on Fernando today. Heidi is going to Calca this weekend and will look for him.

La vida en Cusco

He estado en Cusco cinco semanas hasta ahora. Me gusto mucho la vida aquí. Vivo en apartamento en el barrio San Blas. El apartamento es pequeño pero es muy cómodo. Los Peruanos dicen departamento no apartamento. Es como un "loft apartment".

Hay un balcón y dos ventanas en el techno. Antes de dormir puedo ver las estrellas y le luna de me cama (algunos veces).

Un amigo en Cusco, quien vive cerca de mi apartamento me ha prestado una radio y tambien tengo dvd player pero no he mirado muchas peliculas porque estoy cansado cuando regresso a casa.

Camino a mis clases de español a las siete y media del dia y compro dos panes en la panaderia del Buen Pastor en la Cuesta San Blas. San Blas es muy alto con muchas gradas. Cuando voy a Maximo Nivel en la manaña es facil, pero es muy difícil cuando regreso en la noche.

Fernando has left the building

Today Fernando was taken to court and I was not told despite being at La Policia when they took him away.

This week I eventually got a psychologist to see him. She is a friend of my Spanish teacher, highly qualified and experienced in working with street children. She came to meet Fernando for the first time on Monday at La Policia de la Familia. We decided to take him away from the PF and took him to a park so that she could get to know him and make initial observations. The main session was set for Tuesday at her house.

Everything went well and he got on famously with Wilma. He played with some dolls which were for use the next day at the full session. Heidi and I left Wilma at her house and got a taxi back to the PF. I suggested we take him to a cafe for an ice cream as he'd been so good, which he often is. This was a mistake. We asked him not to take the dolls back to the PF as they would get lost or broken. He refused and when we insisted he made a dive for the door to escape. Fortunately he was wearing a big jacket which I was able to grap as I jumped after him. After this everything went down hill rapidly. He basically lost the plot and would not or could not calm down and kept trying to escape. He kicked a table and a couple of chairs over and eventually I had no choice but to hold him on the floor till help arrived. Heidi called the police and one of them came and we took him back to the PF in a taxi, still struggling wildly.

The end result of all this was that the police refused to let him out with me anymore and would not themselves take him to the psychologist. So the meeting on Tuesday with Wilma had to be cancelled. It was a huge disappointment to me and everyone else who has tried to help over past few weeks.

Since then he has calmed down and been a good boy. He apologised to me the next day, so at least he understands that he was out of order. But at the same time I don't think he can help it as he seems to have no control over his behaviour or any idea about the harm he is doing to himself. He definitely has some kind of mental health problem and from her initial observations this is what the psychologist thinks too.

Today I was at the PF in the morning as usual. The police came for him and took him away. We eventually discovered that he had been taken to for a court appearance but the police didn't ask me to go this time. To cut a long story short the court today decided to send him back to Calca to live with his grandparents. When I got back to Maximo Nivel at one o'clock Heidi was looking for me to tell me all about this and also that the guy at the court whom I'd met previously had been trying to get hold of me to accompany Fernando back to Calca, which is about an hour and a bit away. Fernando, had understandably kicked up a fuss about their plans and made sure they knew he was not willing or wanting to go there. They thought that I might help him adjust to the idea of going back. Even though I was not in agreement with their plans I would have gone with him so that he would at least have someone he knew and trusted. But I suspect he would not have had time for me either. Fernando in a fury is no easy matter and like someone once said "is not for turning" until he is ready.

We phoned the court but by then they had taken Fernando away to Calca so I was unable to accompany him anyway. I'm sure the police must have known my whereabouts and could have told the court.

I'm very upset about all this, if only because I was not able to say goodbye to him. I recall same thing happening last time. But not only that he has some serious unresolved health problems. His scabies is the least of them. Heidi from Maximo Nivel, and I took him for further blood tests last week and we are still waiting for the results to come back from Lima.

I'm sure that Fernando will not stay with his grandparents and will escape at the earliest opportunity. He may even have done so as I speak. If so with any luck he will make his way back to Cusco and I will see him again before I leave next week. Lets hope so. Life for him on the streets will be hard. I just hopè he comes to no harm.

Waterboys

I have a ticket for the Waterboys concert at The Festival Theatre, Edinburgh on 20 May 2007. As I'm not now going to be back in Edinburgh until 25 May, I will not be going. If anyone would like to use it email me at donald.maciver@gmail.co and I will let you know how to get your hands on the ticket. There will be no charge for the ticket unless you feel very strongly about it.

Saturdays

Saturday mornings I get up late, at 8 am. Leisurely shower and shave then stroll down Cuests san Blas for breakfast in a friendly wee cafe where I get a full English for 18 soles. About 3 Scottish pounds or the price of a coffee in Borders. Yummee. If there is no-one chatting at my table, and there usually is, I read my book. Now in Paul Auster's New York Trilogy. For which, many thanks to Chris. And I can see why you like it so much. Just your kind of story and a bit of philosophy thrown in for goo measure. Excellent choice. But I don't think I will be taking you on board as a political adviser. Lets stick to movies. Have you seen Walk the Line yet. Great scene when he plays Folsam Prison Blues for Sam the first time and the band pick up his tune.

Back to Saturday. I meander down to Plaza de Armas where I sit in the sunshine for half an hour, and get chatted to by lots of postcard sellers. Which reminds me of last Wednesday in Ynapay with Robin and Eber. I heard this wee voice calling my name but could see no-one. Then this face appears from behind another table and its a wee fellow who remembered me from La Policia. His name is Jose Antonio and he is only 9 years of age. He must have followed me into the cafe. I bought him lunch with Eber and Robin and we chatted. He said he loved the apples I bought to La Policia every day, and wanted to know if I has an apple tree. Sweet kid. He sells chiclets in the street, like little sweets. He says he does not go home till after 9 pm. Lives with mum. On leaving he tried to sell me some. Cheeky monkey.

After my rest in Plaza de Armas its off to Jesus me Luz ro visit Basilio. He is in good form today and delightlful company. We spend 30 minutes on homework, reading and maths, have a chat with Elita, who runs the orphanage, and she shows us the folder which she keeps with a record of what they have spent all my donations on. A nice moment and complete surprise. Basilio is expected to go back to live with his dad in August. I left him some money for when he moves to pay for school etc. Made another donation for rest of the kids. I will miss Basilio and I think he will miss me, but we've had good times so good memories for him and whop knows I will be back next year. Next week will be last Saturday I will see him this time round.

On leaving Jesus mi Luz I walk along Ave Grau heading for Maximo Nivel. When I'm tapped on the shoulder by Eber who has come along to see me at MN. No Robin.

Eber is with me now at MN playing games on another pc. Tomorrow is Mothers Day. We are off to buy some flowers for his mum. His idea and my money. Pennies really.

No spell check today. PC is nuts. Must go. More later on Fernando and his ongoing saga.

At Ollantaytambo

These photos were taken in Ollantaytambo

The guy with the big cudgel is Inca Ollantay, an Inca prince. I'm not sure what he is famous for. Someone tells me he lead a rebellion against the Spaniards. He had no chance. No wonder the Incas lost everything. Cudgels v guns? Nice cudgel, mind.

Its good to see Hearts doing outreach work in Peru, don't you think.

Eber in The Sacred Valley

The tour of The Sacred Valley was exhausting but exhilarating. Robin didn't make it for reasons unknown, so it was just Eber and me and a coach load of mostly Europeans with one or two yanks and Aussies. It was a small group which made it more friendly and intimate. They all wanted to know about Eber of course and to talk to him.

It was a 12 hour day which included a 2 hour hike round the ruins at Pisac. I was more tired after that than I was after the Inca Trail. Pisac is one of the most important Inca sites after Machu Picchu.


The first photo is Eber with Rio Urubamba and The Sacred Valley behind him. He enjoyed his day but I think he was pretty tired by the end of it all. He fell asleep on the coach back.


This is him admiring a hole in the rocks as we walked round the mountain. He collected lots of flowers and stuff to take back to his mum.

More photos on next posting. Its easier just to post photos on their own. Or so it seems to me.

The Sacred Valley

There are many important Inca sites in The Sacred Valley. Mostly destroyed by the Spaniards and now only ruins remain, with Spanish buildings on top of most of these ruins. Much like Cusco itself. There are too many for me to visit them all. I've been to a few already, including Machu Picchu and other sites along the Camino Inca, and some last year when I went in search of Fernando.

Many people from Cusco have never visited these places, and of course most Peruvians have never been to Cusco, never mind The Sacred Valley.

I'm going on a day tour tomorrow to visit four of the most important ones. I've decided to take Eber and Robin with me. Eber and I went to meet their mother today to get her ok. Robin was using the school computers, as Saturday is one of their school days, so Eber had come to meet me on his own.

Of course mama was delighted. I'm never quite sure of the dynamics of this family. It seems to change frequently. The boys live such chaotic lives. I met a sister aged 15, whom I never knew existed. They are all very friendly to me. I just hope I don't get invited back for dinner. A refusal often offends as they say. Dad is nowhere to be seen at present and does not seem to have been around since I arrived here. They appear to have moved in with mama on a temporary basis. Which may or may not be good news.

Eber and I then went to SAS Travel in Plaza de Armas to buy our tickets. This is the company who organised and provided guides for the Camino Inca three years ago. There are still the same people running it and they are very helpful, and cheaper than the rest. Including getting the boys into the sites for free, which the other companies won't do. They will also drive us up to the ruins at Pisac, which are very high up and not included by other companies. We walk back down; which is nice. Going to Pisac and not visiting the Inca site seems daft.

Its an early morning start for a Sunday. 8.30 am and return at 6 pm. We will be visiting Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Lunch will be in Urubamba.

So while the rest of you are watching Arsenal beat Chelsea, to help Man U clinch the title for the ninth time for Fergie, I will be in The Sacred Valley. Lets hope Wenger and his crew do us all a favour. The least said about other football events this past week the better.

"Everyman"

Not much time for reading here in Cusco but I manage to fit in enough time to read my old friend Philip Roth's latest masterpiece. And masterpiece it sure is. I've been recommending Roth to lots of people over the years and even bought him for a few. Don't know how many have taken my advice, some I hope, but "Everyman" is another work of genius from America's finest. The UK has no-one to compare.

I was reading "On Beauty" on the plane over here and kept Roth for a treat for my self in Cusco. Zadie Smith is ok, but reading "Everyman" just makes her seem ordinary. There's a quote on every page, in fact every page is quotable, just about.

I've been reading him since "Portnoy's Complaint", which was not yesterday, and he's never let me down. He's in his 70s now, and for me that's one helluva an inspiration to keep going. Along with Bob of course. Long may they both live.

For readers getting on in years, and there are a few of you, this is a must read book. You will face the future with confidence, no matter what. I must finish this post with Roth on religion with apologies to the believers who may be reading.

"Religion was a lie that he had recognised early in life, and he found all religions offensive, considered their superstitious folderol meaningless, childish, couldn't stand the complete unadultness - the baby talk and the righteousness and the sheep, the avid believers. No hocus pocus about death and God or obsolete fantasies of heaven for him. There was only our bodies, born to live and die on terms decided by the bodies that had lived and died before us."

A bit savage but honest. There's lots more like that. So much of it reminds me of things in my own life. Was going to say more but time runs out.

He is a private man and does not seem to have a website of his own. But lots about him in Wikipedia and elsewhere. Read the book. Its good for you.

A Birthday Party

Wednesday was Eber's 13th birthday. I bought him a cake and we had a wee celebration party in Yanapay. Yuri and the rest of the workers there, sang happy birthday for him, in Spanish of course, as he blew out the one candle I could find for his cake. His face was a picture to say the least. Of course he got no presents except the clothes I bought for him and Robin last weekend. Here they both are in their fancy hats and wearing their new clothes. They insist on buying trousers way too long for them. But apparently its the fashion in Cusco right now.

"Two cheeks of the same arse"

George Galloway on Tony and Gordon, last week in Edinburgh. Shame about Tommy, but I'm sure he'll be back.

Being here in Peru makes me think I should go back to SWP and join Solidarity. What else is there? Will have to consult my political advisers when I get back.

El día de los trabajadores

My first May day away from the UK. Most people are on holiday here today. I saw a couple of workers' marches and small rallies, a bit like Edinburgh. Maximo Nivel is closed for classes but is open for volunteers and students to use the facilities. Which is what I'm doing now.

I'm not forgetting that many of my workmates in Edinburgh and elsewhere are on strike today. I did think of you all whilst I watched workers in Cusco take to the streets. I hope the day was a success and that Gordon Brown has been brought to his senses. Some hope. It grieves me to think that he is vying with Thatcher in his efforts to put us civil servants down. I fear that where Thatcher failed he will succeed, and there will be few of us left who are not in the private sector. A one day strike wont stop them, but we have to start somewhere.

I will be donating a days pay and more to the various organisations I'm involved with here in Cusco to make up for the fact that I'm here on annual leave.

Today I had my Spanish class in Jack's Cafe and treated Claudia to breakfast at 8 am. Jack's is owned by the same guy who owns the Irish Bar, Paddy O' Flaherty's. By the time we left just before 10 am they were queuing up to get in. I walk past it every night on my way home and people are always waiting to get in. Its not that good and especially when there are so many other choices available. It reminds me of my drinking days in Glasgow, which were few, of course, but those who were around may recall the queues outside some of the pubs in Byres Road. I'm sure Neil will remember if no-one else can. Maybe they still do it of course. Glaswegians are like that. Maybe the people waiting outside Jack's are from Glasgow. Will have to ask them tonight.

Other than that I was at La Policia de la Familia today as usual. No holiday for the kids there. There are lots of teenage boys there this week. Lots of aggression around. Not against me, they all seem to respect me for some reason. Maybe they like me. I had to stop a couple of fights before things got out of hand. Fortunately they accept my interventions and desist. God knows what would happen if they didn't. So I pretend to be fearless, which is not quite the case. And the police are nowhere to be seen.

I've had to be strict with Fernando to allow me time to play with these kids, which he accepts reluctantly. But at least he accepts. We play cards and dominoes and connect 4. It passes the time for them and lets them calm down and talk a little. They all want to be my friend. Which is nice but not easy to keep them all happy. I do my best but there are so many of them. Its hard enough to remember all their names from day to day.

Today I brought one of the boys some underpants as his tracksuit bottoms were split open. Which for a 13 year old with girls in the room is not easy. Needless to say he was delighted. I managed to give them to him without anyone other than F. noticing. He went away to change in the loo and he came back in a smiling boy. Amazing what a difference a small gesture makes.

Chelsea got beat, which serves Mourhinho right considering what he has been saying about our boy Ronaldo. Fergie's response was pur Fergie of course. Which is what you would expect from a Glasgow boy. "What Ronaldo has got are principles, ........... Whereas some people who are educated have no principles, so we're leaving the matter that way."

Big game tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Its on here at 1.30 pm. I've booked my seat in Nortons and cancelled all appointments.

Cienciano took a beating in Mexico, 3-0, just in case anyone is interested. A defeat but not an embarrassment. They are on the way up, though I do wonder how much the altitude here in Cusco helps them along.

Must go. Tarea to do then wee visit to see the bluesmen again all being well.

Manager of the Year

Roy Keane, don't you just love him? I reckon Roy or Sir Alex for manager of the year. Either way I don't mind. You decide. With Steve Bruce not far behind. Nice one boys. It must be very satisfying for Fergie to see his old boys doing so well, even that silly wee man who works at Parkhead. No, I don't mean that, honestly folks, he's no silly at all. He did go to Kieran's old school after all, and only good thingscome out of there, including Riordan, whom he seems no longer to rate. Miller or Riordan? Silly question really.

"High Hopes"

I meant to say "High Hopes" the Mike Leigh film and not High Times, in my last posting. It's an old film I know but I don't recall seeing it before, and I've still not managed to watch it through to the end, as I keep dosing off to sleep and have to switch of the dvd player in case I fall asleep with it playing.

The only film I've managed to watch through to the end is "Million Dollar Baby" but then its such a brilliant movie I couldn't sleep till I found out what became of her, even though it was not hard to guess. Still lets hope he enjoyed his move to that wee place he fancied.

The man is touched by genius I reckon. I saw my first Clint movie in Hanley, one of "the five towns" for those of you who know your Arnold Bennett, although there are actually six of them, way back in 1966 or 1967. I still remember the people I went with though most of their names are long gone, apart from a Norwegian called Harry Foss, who tought me how to play poker, the daft sod. The film was "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly", the best of the dollars movies.

I must go and do my Spanish homework. Am having a quiet day today. Its the pressure. How did Ben a' Chrunaic put it again? How's my spelling doing there?

Lunch at Jesus mi Luz, with Basilio and 50 others.

Today I visited Basilio at Jesus mi Luz and helped with his homework, though with somewhat less enthusiasm than before, which could be due to the fact that they have a holiday next week from school. He did some drawing in the new drawing book I bought for him. He chose to draw a volcano from the poster of the wonders of the worlds, old and new, (from the Grauniad for those of you still reading it) which I had brought with me from home. After reading the bloody thing for at least 30 or more years I suppose its about time I found a use for it. Mind you I've also been watching "High Times" in bed on a DVD player some nice person lent me. Though always falling asleep before reaching the end, so still don't know what became of them all. Basilio successfully found the right spot for all the stickers, and then did his drawing. He declined my suggestion of Machu Picchu. Basilio is on the left.

We then played outside for a bit a were joined by lots of others. I was invited to stay for lunch with the boys. How could I decline. My first lunch in an orphanage. It was excellent. Three courses of soup, meat dish, probably beef, with potatoes, rice and veg. Juice included. Excellent. The boys had another plate of what looked like nuts but may have been maize. Does maize grow on the cob, a la corn? A very pleasant interlude. The staff their have my highest admiration. I was also treated to the boys' own version of the Lord's Prayer in Spanish, least I assume that's what it was, with all the actions.

Will see him again mext week and hope to have Loic peform sometime.

Eber y Robin (see last posting)

She speaks good english...

I had not seen Eber or Robin since Eber left La Policia on Tuesday. They arrived at Maximo Nivel unannounced on Friday afternoon. Obviously hungry, so we went off to Yanapay Restaurant.

Eber has been unwell this week and very tired. They both fell asleep as soon as we had eaten. Sleeping in Yanapay is easy as they can lie on the cushions on the floor. I spoke to the girl who runs the place, who is a good person and knows the boys well by now. She comes from Lima and she speaks good English, though not inviting me up to her room, she said the boys could stay there while I went off to my apartment to take some washing to the laundry. They must have slept two hours. They were still asleep when I got back. As can be seen from the pics.

The girl from Lima told them that they could come in any time after I have left and she will see to it that they are fed. Wish I could remember her name, but its just gone from my memory. Which is bad as she has been so good to the boys.

I bought Eber some stuff from the pharmacy for his cold and gave them 2 soles for their taxi home. This time I put them in the taxi. So no trips to internet cafes. Apparently lots of kids here are hooked on internet games. Maybe because they can't afford PS2s and such like.

Their father is supposed to be home today. Lets hope so. I will need to post pics another time as google is being stupid again.

Fernando in his Cienciano kids top

F. in trouble and I meet two Frenchmen

I had to take Fernando to a pharmacy earlier this week to get him some medicine for his fever. We were accompanied by Jenny, the policewoman in charge on the day. He's had his ups and downs this week. When he was very ill he was quiet but now that he is better he is back to his old self. He's been crying a lot this week, which is not really his style. He cries when I'm leaving and pleads with me to stay with his sad wee face, which of course he puts on specially for the occasion. But he breaks my heart some times. In the meantime he's broken a window and kicked a policewoman. Always in trouble that boy. I think he is reacting violently to all the rejection he has suffered all his short life. And he doesn't think before he lashes out. He has been punished in a truly Dickensian fashion for his misdemeanours.

There have been lots of children coming and going from La Policia this week. Today there were at least and its a small room they are locked up in. There were 5 boys who were 11 and 12 years old. All of them in tears. I don't know why they were there. I began to play with one of them, teaching English with flash cards which the brighter ones love. Pretty soon I was surrounded by six boys all wanting to participate. Fernando didn't mind either, which is always a blessing, as its hard to work with the others when he is at his most demanding. The boys were all taken away shortly afterwards, maybe home or the court. Will know tomorrow. Once they had left Fernando wanted to learn English. Usually when we play with the cards its only in Spanish and for counting but I guess because he heard the others he wanted not to miss out.

Yesterday I met the circus performer. He is a young French guy who learnt his circus skills in Paris. He lived for a year in Bruntsfield while he did a term or two of computer studies in Edinburgh. We went for lunch in a vegetarian restaurant which does lunches for 5 soles. 3 course less than a pound. Its madness the way I'm wasting my money eating out over here.

We sat at a table with one other customer, as place gets rather busy. The guy turns out also to come from Paris. Would you believe it me and two Frenchmen discussing what going to happen next in China. I've no idea how we got there but we did. A fine time and lunch was had by all. It turns out that this second Frenchman not only knew Edinburgh but also the Highlands and Islands. Well as far as Skye anyway, which no longer counts as an island of course.

Loic, the circus artiste has agreed to perform at Jesus mi Luz and at Yuri's project, and they have both agreed to have him. He's also offered to do some teaching of juggling for the kids on a regular basis. He juggles with fire and all that kind of stuff, though he wont be teaching the kids that kind of juggling.

Cienciano del Cusco

I have added a few more links to my blog. Including our local football team, who are not quite Man Utd standards, but then who is, but who did beat Boca Juniors the first weekend I was here. The fans were dead chuffed so had a wee mini riot to celebrate. There are lots of pics on the site to view, links to YouTube videos. Team musica is also available there.

Next game in the Copa Libertardores is against Toluca of Mexico, in Mexico. That's tomorrow night and the game gets shown on a big screen in Plaza de Armas. I might go for a while but I'm told it get mobbed, so maybe not a good idea. Will have to see.

The "New 7 Wonders" site is there to encourage one and all to vote for Machu Picchu. Cienciano also have a link on their site, so don't be shy, go ahead and do it.

The other site is a local newspaper which I like, but am never sure where it stands. Worth a look for all you Spanish speakers. Not quite Private Eye though.

Knockin' on Heaven's Door

Bluesmen & a Professor of Circus.

Last night as I was walking home with Robin (another Robin who lives in San Blas) we decided to visit a bar, which had caught my attention another night. In this bar there were two guys playing blues guitar and singing. So we made ourselves comfortable at the bar with a large glass of orange juice.

As they began to play another song, I thought to myself, I know that tune from somewhere. Sure enough I did. They were playing and singing "Knockin' on Heaven's Door". A superb version which they kept going for some time. Excellent. Well, one thing lead to another, as they say and we ended up staying in this bar till very late, way past my bedtime, which during the week is never much after 10. And we got speaking to some English girls from dear old Hull.

Robin wants to marry a European girl because he likes blond fair skinned girls. He knows more about the facial features of all Euro nationalities than I have ever learnt. So he was delighted on two scores. They were in their 20s, so a bit young for me these days.

I spoke to the guy who sang Dylan and it turns out he is Chilean, and speaks excellent English, having lived in Australia for some years. He knew many Scots there, whom I guess he met while playing there. He has tried the bagpipes. His fellow musician is from the far country, i.e. north of Peru. He is Indian, and very distinctive features. Will post a pic or two later. He plays superb guitar, a cross between Davy Graham and Bert Jansch. Brilliant. Will be going back. They also played "Light my Fire" which was the only other song I knew, but that was ok by me.

Its 1 pm here and am just back from La Policia. Fernando has been very ill over past few days so have been comforting him and wetting his head with cold water. He cried when I was leaving and just did not want me to leave. Eber has left so I assume he is home now. Might find out soon as he is quite likely to turn up here.

I'm off to meet a French professor of circus now to have lunch and maybe persuade him to perform at Jesus me Luz and at Yuri's school. Never a dull moment here in Cusco.

A Football Tournament

I spent the day yesterday with Basilio. We spent 2 hours in the morning together and did his homework. My knowledge of Spanish is enough to enable me to help, with the aid of my dictionary, and Basilio is such an easy boy to help and be with. We did his maths homework and then some reading. We ended with him reading a poem for me which he then proceeded to sing. Nice. He's a good singer, or at least I think so.

One other boy came into the study room to see what was going on, which Basilio was quite happy with, but when four more arrived he was not too pleased and asked them to leave, politely, which they did. They are all so friendly and just want to know whats going on.

After we finished his homework we went for a walk round the grounds, which are not extensive but big enough for a small artificial surface football pitch. We sat on the spectator benches and were soon surrounded by lots of other boys, young and old. Including Abel, whom I'd worked with last year at La Policia, and he was really pleased to see me again, and of course I him.

We played Connect 4, which the kids all love. Basilio is very good at drawing and proceeded to do a couple of drawings for me. He doesn't seem to mind being surrounded by other kids while he draws. He did a cartoon figure from memory and then one from another kids top. I think he is quite talented. It looks easy for him.

I came back in the afternoon to watch their football tournament. There are about 50 boys in the orphanage and they all got to play, young and old, in teams of 6 a side. They all have their team strips and look really smart. I reckon the pitch and the strips must have been donated.

They had a thoroughly good time. Basilio in his number 7 top played well and his team won both their games. Abel was in his team as well. I think they two have become friends since their time at La Policia together. There were chants from the crowd, ie the boys who were not on the pitch at the time. Half time drinks, team talks and all the trimmings. One game went to a penalty shoot out, most of which were saved. One goalkeeper was wearing an England goalie top. The guys who work at the orphanange ran the tournament and did the referee and linesman bit.

All in all a very enjoyable afternoon. I think Basilio was quite proud to have me there, but I did my best to share my time with the others, especially the younger ones, who thought nothing of coming over beside me and promptly jumping into my lap.

All the staff were at the tournament, including Elita who runs the orphanage and is really pleasant and friendly. They were having a winners, and losers, presentation at the end but I had to leave before it.

I took some short clips on my camera which I will put onto a dvd and give it to Elita next week so they all can see themselves playing. I don't think its possible to put clips on my blog, and putting them on YouTube would not be a good idea. I have some pics though which will be added some day.

Re Fernando pics

I've been trying to make his next move a positive experience for Fernando. No-one ever seems to talk to him about his next new home. He is just told on the day and off he goes. It seems that there are no orphanages left in Cusco, which are prepared to take him, but I'm hoping something turns up for him rather than have to go to a hospital in Lima.

These pictures were taken earlier this week. I usually do some writing with him. Not much more than writing his name, but he can do that quite well, better than last year, and he can also write the numbers up to 10. Doesn't seem a lot I know, but for Fernando a major achievement, especially considering his lack of an education.

After we finish writing I ask him to draw a picture of what he wants his new home to look like. He draws the mountains first; his home in San Salvador is in the Sacred Valley and overlooked by some spectacular mountains. He then draws the sun, shining down with a smiley face. Then comes the house, and the two stick figures are him and me apparently. I've asked him what he most wants in his new house and guess what he wants a Dad ( un papá) who will be nice to him.

You can see from these photos how hard he concentrates, and for Fernando concetration is a major problem. In the photo where he is showing it off you can see how proud he is off his work and at the same time he is pointing out his new Cienciano top (our local profesional football team in Cusco). He wants to be sure that you notice. He doesn't get given much so the new clothes for him are very special.

A larger version can be seen by clicking on the photo.

As I write this there is a salsa class going on in the cafe next door. I like the music but bailar is beyond me at this altitude, or probably at any altitude nowadays. Its a beautiful dance to watch, very energetic, with fast complex steps. There are lots of places in Cusco where one can salsa the night away. So I guess this lot are preparing for a night on the dance floor tonight, being as its Saturday. I might visit Mandela's bar and see what music is on there. Miller has just arrived, so will probably go with him if he fancies it. A few people from Maximo Nivel go there at the weekend.

Saw Ebert and Fernando at La Policia this morning before going to visit Basilio at Jesus mi Luz at 11 and back at 3 to watch his football tournament. For those who can't wait for the scores his team played two games and won both. He wore the number 7 shirt of course; Ronaldo or Beckham, but he played a Keane type of game in the middle and with keane type tackles to boot.

More later all being well.

Fernando draws his new home and shows it off

Ebert gets arrested

I was planning a nice quiet afternoon today until Robin arrived at MN. Like I said he told me that Ebert had been lifted last night for shoe shining in Plaza de Armas, which the mayor does not like, cos its bad for the tourists. Priorities you see. Just like working for DWP.

So we had to go in search of him. He has spent the night in La Policia but had been taken to court before I arrived there this morning.

I learnt a bit more about their circumstance at home. According to Robin they mostly live in the one room apartment on their own as father works away from home a lot, so the boys are left to their own divices. He leaves some money and they supplement it with shoe shining and selling postcards. It makes you weep; well almost.

Meantime off we went to find Ebert. To cut a long story short we found him in La Municipalidad building in Ave el Sol, where he was awaiting processing. From his own experiences Robin knows all these places.

Ebert was relieved to see us but very sheepish. Him and I had been out yesterday afternoon and had a good time together. We met up with Robin, who has come to MN to find us. I gave them two soles for a taxi home, but instead they went off to an internet cafe to play games. When money ran out Robin went home but Ebert insisted on going to Plaza de Armas to shoe shine for more money. Then the police arrived to take him away. He will be back in La Policia tonight and I've promised to see him there tomorrow. Him and Robin had a big hug as we parted. They are so caring of each other, its very touching, but just as well as each other is all they seem to have.

Meantime Robin was not happy to be home on his own tonight, too frightened, despite being so street wise. So I took him for some grub at Norton Rats (english pub but they make the best and biggest burgers in Cusco) which he really enjoyed. Not the kind of place he usually gets inside.

After that I took him to a night shelter for street kids, not far from the centre. I spoke to the guys there, who knew him from the past. They were very happy to take care of him and will see he is OK. A good place to have in the circumstances and no-one gets turned away.

So life goes on. As this is my third posting, or is it my fourth, I'm not doing anymore. I had planned to publish some pics with all my free time this afternoon, but as you can see that plan was well and truly scuppered.

Tomorrow is Fernando and Ebert at La Policia and the rest of the kids there, and then Basilio and his football tournament.

Expectingrain

I,ve just hada look at expectingrain.com, and it shows one person in Peru on the site at the mo. So that must be me. Fame at last. Anyway I guess his Scottish visit has been and gone. Did any of yoose go? If not why not? I think this is the first tour since he came back in 1978 that I have missed.

So who went with me to London that time I wonder?

Next post will be all about Ebert.

Taking Fernando to hospital

Today I finally got Fernando to hospital. He always asks me every day to go for "medico" and today was no different except that he showed me more and worse sores on tender parts of his anatomy. These looked very painful and badly urgently in need of treatment. I asked the police woman on duty today to have a look, which she did and immediately agreed that a visit to the local hospital emergency clinc was called for. Of course there was no-one to take him apart from me. So off we went, just the two of us, with Fernando very happy to be out for the first time in ten days, and to be out on his own with me and no police. He gave me no problems, apart from talking to anybody and everybody who would listen.

At the hospital I was able to explain what was going on in my splendid Spanish and with Fernando's help. Its amazing how readily people accept me wondering off the streets with these kids. Once I've told them who I am they accept it readily.

Anyway we were quickly seen by a doctor who examined him and quickly diagnosed a case of scabies. Needless to say I was none to pleased for the boy's sake, but also for myself and the other kids back at La Policia. Scabies is highly infectious. The doctor told me that I was probably OK but to keep checking for any signs. So far no signs, though of course one begins to imagine the worst from the least little itch.

Anyway the good doctor wrote me a long list of instructions to take back to La Policia. He also gave me a prescription for some ointment for Fernando. Which we got for 1.5 soles at the hospital. He advised me that Fernando should shower every day and change his clothes every time. This could be difficult as he only has the clothes I bought for him.

Back at La Policia, after a stop for ice cream and jelly and coca cola, the police have promised to fumigate the place and also check the others, many of whom are away now. So lets hope thats an end to the matter.

No signs of a place being found for him in Cusco. The courts have exhausted all possibilities. They are now working with Maximo Nivel and are looking at finding him a place in a special hospital in Lima, for kids with these difficulties. Lets hope that works out, though I will be very sad to see him go and I reckon he will be none to happy either.

In the middle of this posting, Robin arrived at MN at 3 pm, put his arms around me and told me his brother had been arrested last night for shoe shining in Plaza de Armas. Shit indeed. See my next posting for more.

What's the chances of that happening then?

When I was in Yanapay Restaurant with Karen last week she heard some one speaking Norwegian and went to talk to her. Its turns out that they both were born and lived on the Faroe Islands and went to the same school there.

They are both Faroese speakers , and there are not many of them in the world. Like they say its a small world. I'm keeping my ears open for a Gaelic speaker.

My day in court with Fernando

I've had some exceptional days in Peru but Monday will be one I shall never forget. Of course it involves Fernando again.

I arrived at La Policia de le Familia Monday morning 10.30 to find him in a state of hysteria and distress. I've no idea what put him in such a state, but because of it he refused to go to for the medical with Jonathan and myself. After about half an hour I had managed to calm him down, or he just calmed down with exhaustion. By this time Yuri had arrived for a visit and the police agreed we could take him to hospital. The emergency dept sent us to the dermatological unit but they had closed at 11.00. So no medical exam or anything else for him. His skin is still a mess and still no doctor, a week after I first asked. You just have to get used to the way of things here and not get frustrated or upset. Which for me is not easy. Yuri helps to keep me calm though.

Because of the disappointment I asked Yuri to come with Fernando to buy some shoes and clothes for him. He is well pleased with his new outfit, which he likes to show off for my camera. Yuri got some special soap, shampoo and a couple of anti-histamine tabs for him, to ease the itching. When we got back to PF we persuaded them to let him use their own shower, and for the first time in weeks he was nice and clean and had shoes to wear and new clothes. He was dead chuffed, as they say in Sy.

I'm rambling on here. Just before I was about to leave we were told that he was due in court at 2 pm and that I could accompany him. As soon as he heard that there was no way out for me, not that I would have wanted one in any case. In the end I was so glad I went with him. The experience for me was traumatic, so what it felt like for him is a mystery, though I guess he gets used to the treatment doled out to him.

We were taken in a police range rover, along with two other kids who had no-one to support them, from what I could see. The first building we went to was a quick visit where some papers were signed. No explanation given to me or Fernando. We were then taken to another building, the court house I assume, where I quickly realised we had been abandoned by the police and left on our own. We were not told they were leaving us and again no explanation given to him or me. I think he must be used to it.

The first guy we met spoke a little English and told me how well his son was doing working in London. He said little about Fernando, except to say he was schizophrenic, which from my knowledge of that illness, he definitely is not. But maybe he uses it as some kind of generic word encompassing all possibilities. He moved us on to the next guy, again without explanation. Maybe they all thought I knew enough or too much.

This chap seemed to be the one making decisions and once my Spanish ran out, which under all the stress it did very quickly, ( not at all like speaking Spanish only, in my class, which Claudia insists is good for me, and who am I to argue), I had the brilliant idea of asking him if he would phone Heidy at Maximo Nivel, as she knew all about the boy. He then said he would try to find an interpreter but as no-one was immediately available he called Heidy from anther room. She comfirmed all I had told him about the boy and made some suggestions as to where he could go and asked for psychriatric assessment and treatment if appropriate. Who pays is another matter altogether; but lets take one step at a time.

After all this they told us they had no place for him in any case as all options appear exhausted. Heidy is investigating a place she thinks might take him. He allowed me to speak to Heidy and she comfirmed the police had left us there and would not be coming back for us. So then the court had to phone La Policia de la Familia to take him back and I was asked to take him in a taxi and pay for it. Which was nice of them. We were accompanied back by a court security man, and I'm sitting in the taxi thinking if this guy asks me to pay his fare back to the court, I'm very suddenly going to have find myself with no money left after paying the trip there. Its not the cost that bothered me but it just felt wrong. Fortunately he did not ask. Lets hope he doesn't get round to reading this.

All of this time Fernando sat on my lap, and though he is not a heavy weight, three and a half hours on a hard chair with him in my lap was not easy. At one stage, when we had just been left to sit and wait he fell asleep in my arms, and I just did not have the heart to move him. He is such a brilliant wee boy to help. I wish I could do more for him, but I'm so glad to have been there for him on Monday, even if my presence didn't affect the outcome much, we have made a little progress.

I won't say anything about the interpreter, except that she was very pleasant and helpful. I told her that I would like someone to explain to Fernando what was going on, which she did. She thought somehow that I was going to take him off their hands.

They have agreed to keep Heidy informed of developments and will tell us next time he is due in court and will let then me accopmany him to his new home. I have spent the last two days talking to him about it and trying to make it a positive experience for him. I get him to draw pictures of the new house. In answer to what he would like there he says he would like a papa (father here in Cusco). When he draws his new house he puts a drawing of him on one side and one of me on the other. We practice his writing skills, which are not great but could be easily improved. He wants to go to school when he moves.

Enough for now. I hope you all noticed I made three postings on Sunday. It's my day of rest and worship.

Robin and Ebert

I've been seeing a lot of these guys lately. If they had there way it would be every day. But I think we have made some progress, especially on the education front.

Whenever I see them we go to Yanapay Restaurant, which is just too good a place to miss out on and they love it. It is very child centred which helps, and the music is the best I've heard in a public place and just held at the right level for easy conversation. But the best thing about it is the quality of the food and the incredible cheapness. Lunch is a 3 course affair with a freshly made large juice. It costs 7 nueve soles, and a uk pound exchanges for just over 6 soles, which is why I go so often. Three pounds for three of us. Amazing. But I must be a lottle bit more advertourous sometimes.

But maybe not as all the money I spend there goes to pay for Yuri's various projects, including the free school he runs for 50 or more kids. Anyway its a brilliant place and though I dont like corny quotes here goes : "Where from the moment you enter you feel lots of love. Where the food and drinks are artistic and fun."

Anyway to cut a long story short, I've spent an afternoon at the school, which I will describe another time but which impressed me hugely, especially as its free. In Peru all kids pay for their education, which is why Robin and Ebert only go 3 half days a week, including a Saturday morning. Today I took them to Yanapay and we met and spoke to Yuri. The boys have agreed to start going and I'm taking them for the first time on Tuesday. I hope it works out, but they are both very street wise and maybe will not find it easy to fit in. Its run by Yuri himself and a whole bunch of volunteers. Lets hope the boys don't give them a hard time.

They are both very intelligent boys and could do well with a bit of luck and some support, which I really hope they will find with Yuri's projects. They are now teaching me Quechua, which they know a little bit, because their father is Quechua. I can't cope with Spanish never mind Quechua, but how can I refuse.

Just about everytime I am out with these boys the police or security guards give them a hard time, especially if they are carrying their shoe shine gear which they are not allowed to use in Plaza de Armas. The boys of course give as good as they get, especially Robin, who will take a telling from nobody. Will get him in bother some day.

Why is it that even though they have nothing, it takes them hours to choose a pair of trainers? We eventually found ones which were to their high standards.

Fernando again

He is still at La Policia de la Familia. I'm beginning to suspect that he is allowed to escape just to give them a break.

Elena reckons he stays in a night shelter when he does go on the run, and they allow kids to use any name they fancy and the police dont mind as otherwise the kids would not come to spend a night. Elana also tells me he has fallen in with a glue sniffing gang, although he seems to be free of them at the moment. When he goes on the run he eventually makes his way back to La Policia. Probably when things overcome him. God knows what happens to him out there.

He still has no shoes, even though he has beed asking me every day. I've been more concerned about a skin condition he has. Hopefully not contagious as he is usually all over me. I've been asking the police women in charge to take him for a medical but so far without success. They have agreed for me to take him tomorrow to a medical centre in Santiago. Jonathan from Maximo Nivel will come with me in case of any language problems and to show me where yhe place is. When I told Fernando this, on Saturday he was delighted. He never gets out of course, except when he escapes.

I've promised to take him to buy some shoes and clothes at the same time. Meantime have been giving him some cream to stop the itching and scratching. Will keep you posted. The future for Fernando does not look promising, at least at the moment.

For the first time I saw some affection for him from another person, a girl in fact who seems to have had a rough time herself going by the scars. Anyway it was nice to see and I teased them both a bit which they did not seem to mind. Fernando was happy even for another boy to get my time and affection, which he sometimes finds hard to take. So thats progress of sorts.

Basilio

I went with Elena on Saturday to see Basilio for the first time since I arrived. He was so happy to see me it was a bit overwhelming. He just wants to hold on to me all the time. Elena left as she had to meet someone but I stayed with him for about an hour. He showed me round the orphanage and their new all weather football pitch, which was being well used.

He was still wearing the trousers we bought together last time I was here. Which he proudly pointed out to me. We went to his room so that I could see where he sleeps. He showed me his cupboard and there at the front is the car we bought, and still in its its box, thought well used. When I picked it up he smiled so sweetly but a little shyly. His face was a picture of delight.

He now goes to school and is doing very well, according to Elita who is the person in charge of the orphanage and probably deserves an entry to herself, but time is short. Basilio is near the top of his class. She also tells me he is very popular with the girls which is no surprise really. I think she has to ward them off.

He took me to see his school back bag which was full to bursting. We had a look at his work which is indeed very impressive for one so young and who has lost so much over the past couple of years. I've learned a bit more about the circumstances of his arrival at La Policia, which is not a pleasant story and not for here.

Anyway I've arranged to see him next Saturday for an hour in the morning to do some homework with him and play some games. He then has an inter schools football tournament that afternoon which he wants me to come to and hopefully see him score, just like yon wee man Rooney. So am looking forward to that amongst other things that are going on.

Thats all about Basilio for now, except that he wants to visit Scotland some day.

I hope there are no spelling mistakes. I cant be bothered checking as I just end up re-writing and life is too short for re-writes.

Fernando, Robin and Ebert

Fernando was back at La Policia de la Familia today. He was minus one shoe and none too clean, but it was great to see him, and to see him looking in reasonable health. I did have to ask them to get him to a doctor ro check him out properly. Needless to say he was extremely pleased to see me, and indeed seemed worried that I had not recognised him, which was not at all the case. Just that I was thrown by his sudden arrival in the room some time after me.

He was all over me and I had to sruggle to get him to understand that the other kids needed my tome too. But we got it sorted and he was great really. He was asking if I remembered the llamma running away that time in the park. I'm sure I'll be seeing more of him.

Robin and Ebert came to meet me at Maximo Nivel as arranged. It was Ebert's first time seeing me since last year when I left them waving to me from the roof of their orphanage. He came running into the cafe and was immediately all over me. They both were. It's great to be back with them. We went for lunch at restaurant called Yanapay of which more later. It was Robim's 13th birthday too so we has a celebration juice. Funnily enough it is Ebert's 13th on the day I leave here. I will see them again at the weekend.

I've put a link on my site to Aldea Yanapay, which is the site of Yuri's organisation. Karen and I were there last night till 10.30, which is way past my bedtime. We're meeting him again tomorrow and visiting his project. I'm hoping that I can introduce Robin and Ebert to him and they may be able to go to his school. More about Aldea Yanapay later.

I'm meetimg Basilio at the weekend all being well.

What a Team

I just felt I had to come on here to do a little bit of gloating. I'm sure you all won't object to that at a time like this. What can I say other than what a team and as for my pal Fergie, well words fail me.

The other reason for coming back so quickly is that I've noticed some glaring spelling errors in my last posting or two, which old Fury would have not appreciated. The keyboards her don't help as all the letters are worn out.

Quechua is of course the correct spelling and not as I had it. The rest I will leave you to work out for yourselves.

The final reason is that its 6.45 pm and I'm waiting for Karen to arrive at MN so we can go to meet Yuri together.

Living in San Blas and back at La Policia

I moved to my new apartment yesterday. Its in San Blas, the artists´quarter of Cusco, so I fit in rather nicely. Its quiet small but has everything I need; bathroom with shower, small kitchen, which will be mostly unused, and a balcony looking out on to the street, which has a Quecha name, "Atoqsak'uchi". Quiet exciting to think I'm sleeping where the Incas used to hang about.

I have started my Spanish class with Claudia. She is of the opinion that I have made progress since we last met. We start at 8 am for two hours. Its a nice easy walk for me down from San Blas then through Plaza de Armas and down Av el Sol to Maximo Nivel. Which is somewhat different from driving to that lovely car park in Wester Hailes. Its also all downhill so easy on my blood pressure. I'm still getting used to living 2 miles up in the sky, but I reckon my doctor's little pills have eased the process.

Today I went to La Policia de la Familia for the first time. Its changed quiet a lot since last year. A coat of paint and new bunk beds have improved the place considerably, as have the new windows. This is apparently down to them having a female police officer in charge, who has more time for the kids and is keen to help improve things. More in this another time.

Unfortunately I still haven't met Fernando. He is on the run again having escaped last week sometime. I'm told he sometimes makes his own way back to La Policia. So lets hope he shows up soon. I'm told he still remembers me. Which is nice.

I met with a quy called Yuri at La Policia today. (Lots of people here have Russian names, which I'm told is a throw back to when the communists were a force to be reckoned with in these parts). Anyway Yuri is a young Peruvian who runs his own small organisation supporting street kids. He has recently started working with Maximo Nivel at La Policia. He runs a restaurant which partly funds the centre he has set up for the children. I'm going to meet him tonigh at 8 pm at his restaurant along with Karen, another volunteer, who amazingly enough was born and brought up on the Faroe Islands. More on Yuri and his work later.

Sunday afternoon was unexceptional until about 3 pm. Miller and I were sitting on the balcony of a cafe overlooking Plaza de Armas, sipping our cappuchinos and watching the world go by. When who should I spot but young Robin crossing the square with his shoe shine gear under his arm. I shouted his name and he looked up , saw me and I just wished I had my video camera on. He gave a huge smile, turned to his pals, abandoned them and came thundering up the stairs, across the cafe and onto the balcony, where he threw himself all over me. To say he was pleased to see me is oa bit of an understatement. And of course I was very pleased to see him. I've arranged to meet him and his brother, Ebert at Maximo Nivel tomorrow afternoon.

Thats all for now folks.