Sunday, October 30, 2011

Prickly Pears

I've just discovered about a fruit called prickly pear. It's called tuna in Spanish and not to be confused with the fishy thing we call tuna. That's atún in Spanish.

It's apparently a prickly pear-shaped fruit of a kind of cactus. I think I've seen them at home but never paid any attention to them, as one does.

Anyway the reason they warrant a mention is that I've read an article about them in El Comercio and it seems that it's just the best thing ever for diabetics and does wonders for the colesterol level too. It was used by the natives to treat lots of conditions, from fever, to hernias to ulcers. Amongst various others.

Some cafes and restaurants sell tuna juice. Have stocked up on them in the flat and will be having one daily. There's a special technique for pealing them which my pal taught me today. My blood sugar today level was at it's lowest level since I stared testing it. Don't know if the two are connected. I didn't really eat much today so maybe not.

Anyway if you have diabetes or colesterol problems,  and at least one of you does, then a prickly pear a day may be just what the doctor ordered. This blog will not be held reponsible for any unexpected outcomes.

I probably won't be issuing any more medical advice but you never know. 

EARTHQUAKE

It was indeed an earthquake I felt when I was sittng here on Friday writing my blog. It was reported as being of magnitude 6.9 on Richter scale and centred round a town called Ica which is about 185 miles south of Lima.

No people were killed but buildings and houses were destroyed. It shook buildings here in Lima but caused no damage in the city. It was near to where a magnitude 8 quake killed more than 500 people in 2007. Though I was not in Lima at that time I visited the area and saw all the damage it caused. The doctor I use in Cuzco went to help out with field hospitals there and showed me some of the photos he had taken for their records.

Quite frankly I'm glad I don't live in an earthquake zone. But you just get on with life and don't think about it. The locals take it all in their stride and don't even mention that they felt the tremor.

Malkovich made a joke on Thursday night, before the quake, to the effect that he was doing a world tour of earthquake zones with his play. Funny at the time but would have been less so in other circumstances.

This is now Sunday afternoon and I'm off out to see the world and pay one last visit to the book festival which closes on Tuesday.

Friday, October 28, 2011

http://www.guardian.co.uk/stage/2011/jun/18/the-infernal-comedy-review

Malkovich conquistó Lima

Went to see John Malkovich last night and he gave one hell of a performance. The above was the headline for today's review in El Comercio. I'm sure I don't need to translate it.

Not like anything I've ever seen before. It was a play with an orchestra and two sopranos supporting him. I guess it was a cross between an opera and a play. Just very different.

Malkovich's performance was quite astounding. Funny, terrifying and quite too believable. He speaks with what he describes as European accent, but it didn't sound like any accent I've ever heard in Europe or anywhere else. His pronunciation of some words is just a touch out, enough to make you smile just a little, though not sure if the Peruvian audience picked up on this. We had simultaneous translation on screen above the stage.

It's the true story of a serial killer, who eventually commits suicide. Or at least as true as we want to believe it to be. He is quite philosophical about it all. Blames the women in his life. Or so it seems. He strangled most of them with thier bras. He plays this out with one of the sopranas then the other.

In the end he plays out the suicide by tying rope round the desk he has been using and round the leg of a chair used by one of the orchestra players.

It looks very much like he's about to do it again. But of course he doesn't. He comes back to make a joke about having to be alive to perfom the play again in Bogota tomorrow night. But invites us all along to see if tomorrow he has a change of mind.

Very glad I went to see him. I will need to check out about the theatre. It was quite impressive. But i think it must have something to do with the army. We were directed into the theatre by armed soldiers. Nobody else seemed to notice. Very strange. They were there again on the way out and even directing traffic on the roads outside. Maybe they heard I was coming. I'm told that indeed it is an army theatre. But there must be more to it than that. Surely!

VILLA MARIA

It's a question of time really. So much to do when you are in a foreign country it leaves so little time for writing my blog. Not to mention having to get plenty of sleep. Where to start? I've got half an hour just now.

I'm back working in Villa Maria with Flor and the kids of INABIF. I got such a welcome from them. I can't believe that they all remember me so well. A wee girl called Naydelin handed me a letter she had written for me telling me how much she missed me and how happy it makes her for me to be back with them. It's in Spanish of course but I will try to post a photo of it soon.

Some of the older kids have left now, but new younger ones have arrived. The idea is that they get three years with INABIF, during which time they should go to school in the morning and then come to INABIF for lunch and spend the afternoon here till about 5 o'clock. This should mean they have no time left to  go to work and at the end of the 3 years their education should have improved considerably and also their general health and wellbeing.

Flor is now working on her own, as Pedro has moved to work in the private sector, so she is really busy, and the little bit I can do is a big help to her. We have access to a footie and play park as well as the room where they do home work and games and other stuff. The lunch is provided by the state. They are building a new kitchen and canteen. The meals are prepared on site and are for older folk and younger ones who live in Villa Maria. The kids of INABIF are allowed to partake too.

Unfortunately we are not able to work in San Juan now. It's not possible for Flor to cover both places. I'm hoping to be able to organise a day in San Juan so that I can meet the kids there again. I just hope the government finds the money to pay for another worker to help out.

I'm sitting in my apartment writing this and I've just felt a tremor shake the building. Blimey!!! Thats the biggest I've felt. It's a very strange feeling. I think I will head off out now and see how the world is going. I guess you just get used to these things. Will maybe post later if I find the time etc.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Missing

That last posting was written with my usual devotion to paragraphs but somehow blogger decided to do without. They've just made some "improvements" and this is the end result.

Jose Saramago hardly ever uses paragraphs in his writing so I'm sure just for this once you will all cope.

I'm writing this on my iPhone so who knows how this will look once I post it.

Forgot to mention that Heber's brother Robin is in Puerto Maldonado working in the mines there. It's rough and tough out there. Not the best place for a boy but then maybe it's better than working the streets of Cusco. Who can tell?

Day out with Heber

Spent the day with Heber yesterday. Had a good day with him. I can hardly believe he has grown up so much. Seems like yesterday I first met him in La Policia in Cusco. But it must be five years now. Where have all the years gone? His life continues to bring surprises. He's been driving a moto taxi recently. These are about the most dangerous vehicles I've ever seen on the roads, other than a certain tractor back in Tong in the 50s. He talked about doing this last time I saw him, and he agreed he would stick to his job in the restaurant, So of course he went ahead and started driving a moto taxi. And what happened? He had an accident of course. His shoulder is damaged and he has to wear a cast round his shoulders so that it will set properly. He insists that he is not too young to drive one of these things and that the police have not charged him. The moto belongs to an uncle who has now repaired it. He promises not to go back to driving it again. He now hopes to start work with a company which does electrical maintenance in various buildings. I'm hopeful this will work out for him as if he does ok they will give him training. He still lives with his aunt and uncle in Villa Maria, but they are moving to Iquitos so he hopes to move in with another aunt in new year. This will be better than the alternative which is to return to Cusco. We went shopping for clothes for him. Followed by BurgerKing. Yes they are here too. Then to a new ice cream shop which sells the most delicious ice cream I've ever tasted. Had a nice chat with him. He tells me how my Spanish has improved. He remembers when I could hardly say a word. Now we can have long conversations. He is very patient and speaks nice and slowly for me.We decided that the Nazca Lines were definitely put there by spacemen from some world not yer known to us. Oh and he tells me that when he is married and has his first boy he will call him Donald. Which is nice. I hope some day to meet this Donald. He's a good kid. I hope to see him again at the weekend.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Back in Lima

Mick Jagger, Rod Stewart and I arrived in Peru last week. Rod was doing a concert in Lima on Friday night, for 10,000 of his fans, old and young. I think he was looking for me but I was too tired to go out after my long voyage over.

My pal Mick is visiting Peru as a tourist. He was in Cusco last week and visited Machu Picchu of course. He was welcomed as some kind of hero here. He went to see the Amazon rainforrest in Tambopata which is where I visited a few years back. He was made an "embajador honorario del bosgue amazonico". Which is more than they did for me for some reason. Maybe they will do it this time round.

Talking about voyages, that's the last time I go from Edinburgh to Lima in one trip. It's just too much for my old body to cope with. Next time will have to stay a night in Amsterdam I reckon.

We have a new president here since my last visit. His name is Ollanta Humala and as far as I can make out he is on the left. He seems to get the right a bit excited. The worst insult they can give is that he's "Chavezista", whom the CIA have turned into a bit of a monster of course. Will have to wait and see how it goes.

They're having their own wee corruption scandal in parliament too; just like home.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Last day in Lima

Last day in Peru. Sad to be leaving but looking forward to being back in Edinburgh too. It's going to feel very strange indeed after all this time.

Have had lots of great times and good memories to keep. Also had some sad moments of course, but never without hope for the future. There are lots of good people here in Peru trying to improve lives. I've noticed a big change here even in the few years I've been coming. This year they have a presidential election. Lets hope they do the right thing, or at least don't vote Keiko into power. She seems to be running second in polls right now.

I've just heard from Ricardo at Maximo that they are taking Fernando to the clinic today, so hopefully there will be good news there. He is still in La Policia de la Familia unfortunately.

Getting to know Fernando and Alberto was one of the highlights of my time in Peru. As was meeting the kids of San Juan and taking them to the cinema and lots of other things. I will go back there to see them for sure. Don't know when but some day soon.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Fernando and Alfredo

Fernando and Alfredo are two 12 year old boys who were in La Policia all last week. I spent quite a bit of time with them just chatting and playing games. There were between 6 and 9 kids there every day last week.

These two boys just did not want me to leave. There are both great kids but have had lots of problems in their lives as have all the kids here. Fernando had been sent to work in a brick works every day for who knows how long. He also had a hard time at home so needless to say he ran away and refuses to go back. The police seem to have accepted that he will not be able to go back home.

Because he was working without any protective clothes or goggles his eyes are now damaged. To what extend I don't know. The police asked if I could help so called Dr Grober and he is going to arrange things for him. I've left some money with MN to pay his medical fees. Hopefully it will turn out to be treatable and he will be ok.

I hope to keep in touch with both the boys when they move to a home. Ricardo at MN will try to keep me posted on where they go to stay. It would be good if they went to same place.

It's Alfredo's drawing that I've posted. I asked him to draw a picture for me showing where he lives and who he knows there. The guy in the picture is his father with the big hat. He didn't tell me much about him. I like that he has shown a happy sun, though I did have to ask if there was not a sun to be seen near his house, so maybe he does not see it as sunny at all. Maybe he was just trying to please me.

So that's my time at La Policia finished yet again. There's never a dull moment there. Hope to be back there some day soon.

Sunday, January 09, 2011

Javier

 

I've seen this boy and his mum on the streets numerous nights. Last night I brought him some food and had a chat with him. He is 11 years old and says he goes to school every day. God knows how he makes it. They can go to ahelter but not until midnight and they sleep there the rest of the night. He's a great wee kid, but tell me what chance does he have? He didn't mind his foto being taken and I paid them. Will look for him tonight and try to give him a bite to eat.
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Alfredo's Drawing

 
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Saturday, January 08, 2011

The boy with no name

The boy with no name has been found a place in an orphanage. I was there when he left which was good. He gave me a cuddle as he left, though I doubt he really understands. He still had no name as he left. I'm sure he will be well looked after now in his new home and I'm so glad he didn't have to hang about in La Policia de la familia for too long. I will always remember his smiling face.

Only two days to go in Cusco. Leave here on Monday. Slight change in plans of one day. Have been to work today, Saturday, for a couple of hours, as Alfredo and Fernando insist on me coming in. Will go in tomorrow for a couple of hours too for my last visit. There are six boys there over the weekend.

Going out to pub tonight to see my favourite band for last time. Think I might request a Bobby D number. I'm sure they could manage Forever Young or Knocking on Heaven's Door or something .....

More tomorrow all being well and maybe your first taste of Quechua....

Thursday, January 06, 2011

Working life

Such a busy time here in Cusco I rarely have time to write anything here. It doesn't help that I don't have internet in the apartment of course. I leave my laptop in the office here in Maximo, so don't have to carry it every day. Am I repeating myself?

It's Thursday morning here and am in Maximno prior to going off to work at La Policia. I really enjoy my time with the kids at La Policia, though I'm not sure that enjoy is the right word to use, when I see how life has treated so many of these boys and girls. It's a cruel old world, but it always amazes me how the kids survive and get on with things. I think it's more gratifying than enjoyable.

There were nine kids there yesterday, seven boys and two girls. All with their own sad story to tell. All of them individually so important, if you're the kid living it, but all so similar. All comes down to same conclusion.... revolution now. Maybe some day some of these kids will take up the fight. It's the same the whole world over.

I can't recount all the stories on here, but there is one boy there just now who has got to me. He is a "special needs" boy though not that much, he's about 11 or 12. He seems to have been abondoned in the street, which is not unusual. There are two other boys also abandoned. This wee guy is a complete mystery as no-one knows who he is and he can't or won't say his name or who he is. The police say he can't speak. First time I saw him he was in a corner hiding his face and crying. Nobody paying any attention, not that there is anyone who can. It was heartbreaking to behold, though I'm a bit soft in that regard. Other boys wanted me to play games soon as I arrived but waited while I tried to speak to this guy. I gave him my hand and tried my best to re-assure him. He responded after a while and we dried his tears and he wanted a cuddle. I took his had and lead him to the table to play games with the other boys.

He gave me a big smile and along he came, sat beside me and joined in as best he could. Big smiles from him and then he spoke a few words. Not much but at least proof that he can speak a bit. Second day I saw him was the same situation, he was left in a corner all on his own though not crying. The police just do not have the resources to be social workers or spend much time dealing with this kind of situation. Lets hope he gets to a good home. Wonder what today will bring?

All for now.....

Sunday, January 02, 2011

A New Year arrives in Cusco

 
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Fireworks and a stalker

New year celebrations were all I could have hoped for, and then some more. One of the best Hogmanay celebrations I've had in many a long year. Though I was probably the only one here calling it Hogmanay. I'm teaching Gaelic now as well as English. I offer a phrase of the Gaelic for every phrase of Quechua that I'm taught. Seems like a fair swap. Will post some Quechua phrases soon. Let me know if you fancy any in particular?

Took in the New Year at La Plaza de Armas here in Cusco. We started of with five of us but three were lost along the way. Not that it mattered much. The Plaza was crowded. Not quite to Edinburgh levels but enough to make it exciting and intimate.

Lots of booze was consumed and lots of people got drunk, as was to be expected. There was a band playing but couldn't hear them because of the noise. The big difference here is that everyone has fireworks and they let then off indiscriminately. And they begin really early in the evening, well before midnight.

Some of these firewporks are very powerful, and kids have them too. So you can be walking along and someone sets off a firework on the street right in front of you. It's incredible, I'm amazed there are not more people injured. People scatter to get away. Lots of rockets set off constantly. I've never seen anything like it. Took me a wee while to get used to it, then you just ignore it and get on with things.

There was an official firwworks display at midnight, not quite of Edinburgh standards but very impressive nonetheless. Will post a couple of pics on here in a bit. The rain stayed away which was good. After that it was off to a bar near the plaza for somo musica en vivo. Band didn't come on until well after one. I was knackered. We walked home about 2.30. Streets were still crowded. But everbody in happy mood.

Yesterday I got up at 8.30 to watch last hour or so of Man U game then had to go back to bed. Went off walking into town to meet a pal. It's not a long walk but it's up a bit of a slope, not really a hill. So have to walk nice and slow so as not to get breathless. I was overtaken by this young woman who kept looking back at me. I thought maybe I'd forgotten to comb my hair. Then she turned back and asked me if I was Donald. She remembered me from last year in Maximo, when we had chatted. She decided to follow me. I was not too surprised to learn she was suffering depression and getting therapy. Just my luck. She was my first stalker. We passed some benches and I told her I needed to rest. She said bye, walked on a bit then tuned back to tell me she was tired too and needed to rest.

What a pain. I was trying hard not to be rude, but eventually I told her I had to leave. I walked across the road and went into a shop until I saw her passing up the other side of the road. She is a good looking young woman but I prefer not to be stalked right now. I feel a bit bad but it was all too much.

I know lots of people here in Cusco and have people coming up to me all the time who remember me from previous visits, but none quite like her.

I've only got one more week left in Cusco. I don't want to leave, I feel at home here. I've got used to the altitude and coping well with it. BP is excellent, not had to take my back up pills this time round. Such is life.

Friday, December 31, 2010

La Banda Sin Nombre

 
 
 
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Happy New Year/ Feliz Ano Nuevo

This is the first time I've spent Hogmanay and New Year away from UK. I'm quite excited. Hope the rain stays off. It's looking ok right now. We plan to go to La Plaza and a bar with a band. Depends on weather where I will bring in New Year. I quite fancy La Plaza followed by the bar.

Today I was invited to a rebirthing ceremony, but decided against it. I reckon I've seen enough folk being reborn and fat lot of good it did them.

There have been some caves discovered recently near Cusco. Some hieroglyphic images were found within. These have been carbon dated and the messages translated by top European experts in these kind of things. It turns out that they are 10 million years old and the images reveal a message from highly developed visitors from outer space, called the Elder Brothers. The Brothers' message was for us all to follow the Path of Light.

So thats a very hopeful message to end my last blog posting for 2010. And no sneering there at the back!!! Believe!

So happy new year to all, and thank you for reading my ramblings. It's been fun.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

Street Crimes

This morning I spent chatting with two 16 year olds in La Policia. They are both there for being very naughty boys indeed. One of them has been there for five days, he keeps telling me it will be his last. So hope not to see him tomorrow. His parents are supposed to come and take him home tomorrow morning. The other boy hopes to get away too. Depends on the police of course. Enjoyed chatting to them, tried some gentle moral guidance, bit of encouragement to change their lives and think about things. They were quite happy to listen to my words of wisdom, and good to hear a bit of their life story. Life is hard for them. I like that I can speak to them reasonably freely in Spanish. It makes a big difference to all.

Met a policewoman today who remembers me from 3 or 4 years ago. She remembered my name though I forgot hers. She remembers Fernando and has promised to find out what became of him, and where he is now, if she can manage it. But of course she is busy keeping the peace here so may not see her again. But am hopeful.

Have managed to find out a little about Robin, met someone who knows him and which street he works. We went for a walk along there but no sign of him. He "works" there because it's busy and there are no cameras. I feel so sad for him. It's such a waste of a life. I doubt if he will appreciate seeing me, but what the hell, I feel I've got to try. So different from his brother Heber. He's all of 17, and not likely to change now.

I was sitting on a bench in this street where Robin works, just waiting to see if he would turn up, when these two boys, all of 6 or 7, sat down behind me and tried to pick my pockets. I was alert fortunately and no harm done. I was just amazed how young they start. I suggested they eff off, but we left before they did.

Tomorrow is the last day of the year here too, though it will arrive here a bit later than back home, about 5 hours later. We have a big celebration in La Plaza de Armas, lets hope rain stays off. Going to KM0 again and will probably bring in new year there with some friends. Plans still fluid.

One gets to meet all sorts here in Cusco. Can't make my mind up if I prefer here or Lima.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Xmas Celebrations in Peru

Things are done very differntly here in Peru. Most of the celebrations take place on 24th.

I went to La Policia as usual on morning of 24th and spent the morning with the boys and girls there. It's quite sad really to see these kids there. They seem quite happy but you never know how they feel inside. It must be really hard for them to tell anyone how they feel, when the whole world has let them down so badly.

The two brothers are still there, one is 4 years old and the other one is 10. They are looking after each other. I hope they find a place for them soon. There's another boy aged 6 , Juan Carlos. Not sure what his background is. He can't write hisa name and doesn't know the numbers from one to ten, so we practice that and I think we've made some progress. Yoel has promised to help him when I'm not there. So I leave him homework to do, as it were.

I decided against spending Xmas day at Elim, because there are enough volunteers staying there but more because I had an invitation from a friend to spend xmas eve having a traditional Peruvian Xmas.

Like I said all the celebrations take place on xmas eve, or at least main ones. The children get there presents in the morning and at night the adults celebrate. I spent the afternoon in Plaza de Armas, which was quite literally packed to overflowing. The square is given over to all sorts of stalls and people come to make last minute shopping. Not quite like Princes Street but same idea with less money.

Turkey and rice and potatoes and veg were served at 11.30 pm. We first had to go to a communal kind of kitchen where all the turkeys for the locality and beyond were cooked in a giant oven. We walked back carrying the steaming turkey, passing others doing the same. Turkeys taste the same here as every where else. I was given too much but was allowed to take a whole lot back to my flat in a doggie bag.

Come midnight we went outside to set off our fireworks. Where we were joined by all the locals doing the same in the street. Great fun. I got home to my bed about 1 am. Tired but pleased to have had the experience.

Xmas day was the most unusual I have ever spent. I took a taxi to La Policia and spent the morning with the kids there. Went for lunch and then got caught by the rain going back to my flat. My first soaking. Spent afternoon in my flat getting warm abd dry and waiting for rain to stop.

Xmas night was spent with some friends in a bar with live music. Band were superb, one of the best live bands I've seen in years. Will post some pics and maybe a video if I can get round to it. It was a truly memorable Xmas night, one I shall never forget. The band played for 3 hours. I eventually got home about 1.30 am. We walked back as it was such a nice night.

Such is xmas here in Cusco;