Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Some fotos

Have posted some fotos today as promised for your delectation. I think they speak for themselves.

The photos of La Victoria only show a small part of this giant market, most of which is given over to large commercial market stalls supplying all of Lima and beyond. These photos only show some of the stalls selling to locals and folk who come for the cheapness of the produce compared to the shops.

The turtle is Annabels pet. It's very small and cute. There are hundreds of taxis like this in the poor areas, to ferry folk up the mountains where they live etc.

Today I was at San Antonio, where a five year old called Jose has decided to adopt me as his daddy. He goes around introducing me as his new papi. Hope he ain't going to be disappointed in his choice. Mustn't let these boys get to attached though. Won't be back there until next Monday. Which is probably for tghe best.

Tomorrow off to San Juan with Flor..

Views from INABIF in La Victoria

 
 
 
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A turtle and a taxi Lima style

 
 
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David in La Victoria and his painting

 
 
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La victoria with Flor and Anabella

 
 
 
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Saturday, November 27, 2010

La Victoria, Lima

This week Flor took me to work in El Mercado Mayorista de La Parada, in La Victoria, Lima. It's the biggest market in all of Peru, where all the produce is brought to for onwards distribution to other parts of Lima and the rest of Peru. It is gigantic, and on a poverty scale the people working here are supposedly the worst off in Lima, which is saying something.

There are hundreds if not thousands of stalls, large and small, all types of produce, and what seems like millions of people, all very busy, moving stuff on huge barrows or trolleys, making very little money. Looking tired and worn out, but not unhappy, at least not outwardly. It as if they are resigned to this existence, and to me that's all it is, but I feel bad thinking it. It seems so disparaging to so many people to feel like that. They need a revolution real bad, even more than the UK does. Next year there is a presidential election. Lets hope that Keiko gets a kick up the proverbial. Somehow I fear she may do all too well.

Flor tells me that INABIF work with 140 kids in La Victoria. They don't all come every day, but some afternoons as many as 40 kids come along. INABIF have premises in the market with a bit more room than in Villa Maria or San Juan.

I met the other workers in La Victoria, and went out with them to see around the place and meets some kids and mums. It's such an incredible experience to be there, to see it and to smell it and even taste it. Nobody seems to mind the stranger in their midst. I've been given my own waistcoat to wear when I go out with them, so that helps.

Never thought I would see the day with me wondering around poorest bits of Lima, wearing a jacket which says MIMDES on the back. See the photo I've posted. MIMDES is a governmet dept, of which IBNABIF is part. Best translation I can come up with is Ministry for Women and Social Development. Orwellian or what?

The kids work all hours, day and night sometimes alone sometimes with their mothers. During the night after all the workers have gone home the kids go around collecting stuff for recycling. Such as plastic cups. When they collect 1 kilo they get 1 sol, which is worth about 20p. And it's back breaking, soul destroying. At night the place is swarming with rats. They run around in packs and squadrons. Horrible. I can't even stand the sight of a mouse, neve mind work all night amongst the rats in order to feed me and the rest of my family. Heartbreaking even to think about it.

It's truly a hand to mouth existence. The women who run their own wee fruit or veg stalls, have to wait until they have sold enough in order to be able to feed their families. Some of them live so far away from the market, and they have no money to pay fares on buses so they just sleep in the market with their kids beside them, those that are not out collecting. Such is life.

Am going to work in La Victoria at least once a week. Will go back to San Juan on Wednesday to see the new tables and chairs I supplied. Peace.....

A fugitive

Met this chap who insisted on giving me his life story. Don't know why he thought I would be interested. Turns out he is a fugitive from Dutch justice. Not a big criminal, just stole from his own company he says. Reckons it was justified as his fellow director had stolen too and company was about to go bust.

I used the excuse that I didn't like his smoking and that I was busy to make my getaway. He says he wants to do voluntary work too. Didn't want to tell him what I do. He reckons he can go to Tanzania now. So good luck to him.

Was having breakfast in my hotel this morning. Couple at table next to me, middle aged, like me, were having lots of early morning fun over breakfast. Don't understand why they couldn't have taken a wee break over the croissants. The lady found everything he said to be totally hilarious, had that kind of silly giggle, which was ok at first but eventually grated. Told them to put a sock in it. No I didn't really, but felt like it. Eventually they left and headed off presumably to resume intimacies in more private setting.

Peace to have one more cup of coffee for the road, and read some more about The Savage Detectives, which I've just about finished, some of you will know it's quite a hefty read, and I read nice and slow. Best way to read and take life nowadays. It's a terrific read, not like any other book I've ever read. A genuine original and well worth the effort. He died all too young did Bolano, I think he was only 50. Sad.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

mmol/L and mg/dl

My blood glucose meter took a fall a couple weeks back and never recovered it's former glory. Hence I've been unable to monitor my sugar levels for past few weeks. It was on an upwards trend. Which was not enough to worry about too much, but even so I have had the odd little pensamiento that all's not well.

I could not find a similar meter here in Lima and all the ones I could find use the measures as used in USA. They've not yet caught up with the rest of the world in this regard. Plenty bombs though if you need them for your well being and safety.

In the UK we use mmol/L and all the meters I could find use mg/dl. I eventually found a nice pharmacist who did a check for me and it turns out that all was well, though a little on the high side. I decided to go to a clinic just to be sure and all was well. The doctor I saw was called DR Willy, which was a little funny, but not very. I didn't share the fun with him. Maybe he's heard it all before.

Anyway I'd already worked out with the help of the internet, would you believe, finally it's useful, that all I have to do to convert to UK system is to divide by eighteen. Simple as that really. Silly me not thinking of internet before.

Dr Willy told me about a Japanese emporium,Hiraoka, where I could buy a meter at a reasonable price. Which is what I did two days ago and all is well. Will just have to be a little more careful what I eat etc.

The end result of all this is that I've decided that a trip to Nicaragua is not really on for me this time round. So I've been in touch with them to explain it all and they were quite happy with this. A bit disappointed but just felt a trip into unknown was just not sensible when I was not sure about my diabetes being ok. There will be other times, and they will be happy to see me.

I will be staying in Lima now until I go to Cusco on 17 December. I've managed to rent this apartment until I go to Cusco. I just have to go to a hotel for two nights, Friday and Saturday, and come back Sunday morning. So have to prepare to move tro hotel tomnorrow. I will be able to leave most of my stuff in the apartment, just need to take enough for two days. I'm really pleased that I can stay here. It's a great apartment at a great price.

This also means that I can spend more time with the kids here in Lima. If I was going to Nicaragua I would be going tomorrow and this would be just toos short a time with them. So maybe all is for the best. More about the kids tomorrow. This is enoough of my ramblings for a day. Who wants to hear about mmols anyway?

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Heber photos

I've uploaded some photos of Heber. He sure has grown up, but still just a wee boy really. I spend every Sunday with him. He comes in from Villa Maria to Miraflores to see me faithfully at 10 am every week and goes off home at 5 pm. I really enjoy my days with him. He doesn't want me to leave.

He came in to see me one day in his working gear. The restaurant where he works provides a uniform, hence the suit. He works very hard and is always tired. He goes home on Sundays after being with me to wash his clothes. Have asked him to bring them in so I can wash them for him, but he hasn't so far anyway.

Still its better to be tired with work, than being on the streets. He's come a long way since I first met him and that's for sure. I'm proud of him, but he's still a worry. Life here is so precarious for him and can change overnight.

I see the sea

 
 
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Heber not dressed up

 
 
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Heber and Pacific Ocean

 
 
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Heber at Larcomar, Miraflores

 
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Saturday, November 20, 2010

Walls of Redwing

There I was sitting in this cafe in downtown Miraflores when this girl got talking to me, so being polite and well brought up I put my book and iphone away and indulged her, so to speak.

Turns out she comes from Minnesota and went to university there, which as most of you will know is where Bob Dylan failed to get a degree and dropped out of after his first year to take up some kind of singing thing he got into.

My new friend was called Alison, and not only did she go to Minnesota University, but she was born in a place called Redwing and went to same school as Bob, though I'm not sure if this was in Duluth or Hibbing.

She says there is not much to Redwing but that there is a jail there for young criminals or naughty boys. I knew the song of course, but I never realised such a place as Redwing exists, always thought it was another of his inventions. So there you are, every day here brings new revelations. I keep getting closer to Bobby, one of these days we shall meet. Closed I've been is when he walked past us on Stirling Castle esplanande, or am I imagining that? Maybe someone remembers, my memory is crap.

So spent a pleasant evening with Alison. She was just back from Santiago, Chile and catching her flight back to USA. She had come by bus from Santiago to Lima, which I think is a two day trip. Too much for me, anyway.

So that's MU just won their game, my washing is in the dryer, so think I will head out into the sunshine. And Stoke beat West Brom 3-0. Nice one boys.

Returns

Yesterday was Antuan's last day at San Antonio. He's been here four months now. His uncle arrived from UK to take him back home to live with his gran until his mum comes home. Uncle is just a young guy himself. Embassy are looking after things and the two of them will fly back to UK early next week. They were going to visit his mum in prison yesterday. Poor soul.

I will miss the wee fellow, but it was good to see him re-united with family. He was grinning all over his face, but still not saying anything in English. His uncle has my number should they get bored over the weekend, so may well hear from them again.

In all the excitement of him leaving, the embassy person didn't ask me about the ball tonight so didn't have to tell any porkies. Would have gone had I some suitable clothes and been up on my Scottish dancing styles. Anne thinks I should still remember my lesson's in Nicolson Institute hall, but thankfully that is a memory that is truly lost on me.

It's Saturday morning here. Now doing my washing before I go out. Was up in time to see end of Arsenal v Spurs game, so won't say anything about that for fear of losing one or three readers. Man U v Wigan is on now and MU are one up. Time diference is five hours, it's 11.10 here, so will watch end of gemme.

Friday, November 19, 2010

More of San Juan

I know that so called life changing experiences are easy to come by these days, and at my age one just does not expect to have anymore, not that I'm saying that I'm old or anything like that, far from it indeed, I will have you know. I've been coming here so often now that I get to think I know it all, and that maybe I'm getting bored and need to go some place else, which I will do for sure eventually, but yesterday in San Juan was an adrenalin rush of a day, so happy making to be able to be there and do my little bit.

Pedro and I were there again yesterday and instead of two kids we had twelve boys and two girls turned up late. I've seen documentaries about these kinds of places, but it's just not the same until you are there. It's not a place for tourists or such like and definitley not for going out alone. But I'm well looked after by Pedro, sometimes he seems too protective, but he knows the place, and he's a great guy to work with. I owe him a lot for letting me see these places and letting me work with him. Thanks Pedro.

We spend about 45 minutes wslking round the streets which are teeming with people, getting up to all sorts. Everyone seems busy doing something or other. God knows what, but it's certainly never stop.

The streets are mostly given over to markets, if you can call it that. All the stuff is laid out on what there is of a pavement and then into the road. It's truly incredible to behold, but then I get so used to it that it just seems normal. And you can buy everything here. Every variety of potatoe you can imagine,Peru of course being home to the tatty. Though I've not seen any kerrs pink here. Maybe you only get them in Stornoway. Vegetables of all kinds, giant pumpkins, onions galore, carrots, you name it its here somewhere. There's stalls selling meals of all kinds, just wee stoves with some kind of stew bubbling away. There are birds in cages for sale, cats all over the place and of course a thousand dogs.

Then there's the kids working with there mothers mostly looking after the produce and stuff. They've got to know me now, at least a few of them have, and they coming running out and jump up on me to give me a hug and get allowed to come along. They show me all they want to do, homework if they have any and off we go. The mums know me too now, but it's still kind of strange having all these kids to look after and following us around as we collect more. It's an truly life changing and I think yesterday was just about the best day I've had this year, with them.

The place we take them to in San Juan is part of a church complex with a some school buildings too. We have been given a room there, well INABIF have been given use of a room there. It's quite small but ok. We need to buy a couple of tables and some chairs for the place, so I've made a donation of about $120 to cover the cost of that. It's not a lot for all that they give me.

I've been told to bring some lemonade next week by one of the boys, so will do that on Tuesday. Pedro and I are hoping to get them to a cinema some day soon. All for now, I'm tired. Excuse any spelling mistakes or any other errors, for those of you who worry about these things.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Birthday

Imagine having a fifth birthday and no presents. One of the boys in San Antonio had his fifth birthday on Monday. To celebrate one of the workers played him the ringtone for happy birthday on her celular,when we were waiting for lunch in the canteen, mobile as you call them back in UK. No gifts.

I didn't know it was his birthday until I got there so didn't have even a sweet for him. His grannie phoned from Chile, but I'm not sure if he even spoke to her. That's the sum total of his fifth birthday celebration. But at least his gran phoned. Can't be easy for her either. Don't know about rest of family, except they are not able to look after him. When I think of how much is spent on kids birthdays in UK, and how much they demand and expect, even the poorest kids. Still he's well looked after here.

We only had two boys at San Juan yesterday. Don't know what happened to the rest of them. They live chaotic lives and it's hard to get them organised. So spent the afternoon playing with Rafael and Luis Miguel. We played some games and then got them to do some drawings. I suggested it would be nice to do one for their mums, which they did, and very good they were too. They drew birds which we copied from a jigsaw they had completed.

They made little envelopes for them and wrote te amo mama. They seemed happy. Rafael's mum is called daisy, spelt a wee bit diferent of course. He says cuy is his favourite food and they keep them at home to feed themselves. He invites me home to have some cuy with them. It's another invitation which I will probably turn down.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Feeding Sebastian

I help out with the younger boys who are 4 or 5 years old. They are a quite challenging. Usually only two women to look after them, and one of them, the boys that is, is just a tad agressive. He likes to bite and scratch, but he's lovable none the less. So I spend my time between the older boys, mostly 11 year olds and the young ones.

The wee English boy, Antuan, is in with the five year olds, which is how I got to know the rest of them. He seems to have taken to me in some way. No word of him going back to UK so far. But he seems content here and is well cared for. He still doesn't speak in English, but I'm sure from his reactions he understands me when we converse in English. So now we speak a mixture of Spanish and English; in fact I found myself speaking Gaelic to him, just to confuse him a wee bit more. Poor soul. He must thing I'm nuts. God knows what he thinks really.

Feeding time is a hoot. I help out in the canteen to keep order and to feed them. They all want to be spoon fed. Sebastian is never too keen so has to be encouraged. Once he gets a spoonful in his mouth he throws his left arm up in the air, in a kind of Churchillian victory salute, and then slams the other hand down on the table or my leg. He is a funny wee chap. Eventually the plate is emptied, after many victory salutes.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Caledonian Balls

There's a wee English boy in San Antonio orphanage. He's there because his mum got lifted at the airport and he has nowhere to go and no-one will pay for him to go back to UK. He's a lovely wee chap, so try to speak to him everday, but he will not speak in English at all, and is picking up Spanish along the way. He goes to a nursery type school in San Antonio every day, so will quickly pick up some Spanish.

I spoke to a lady from the embassy who comes to visit him. She told me about his plight. Lets hope they find a way to help him back to UK soon.

So I've now been invited to the Caledonian Ball in Lima on 20th November. All formal dress, haggis and strip the willow. They have even put on Scottish dancing classes here in Miraflores in preparation for it. My dancing days are well behind me, if they ever arrived. So I won't be going. I don't have a kilt or formal dress of any kind.

I need a better excuse for not going than that though. Any suggestions are welcome.

Sunday, November 07, 2010

Heber

For those who have been following my blog over the past few years and wonder how he is doing, I met up with Heber a couple of times since I've arrived here. He's still working in the restaurant in Villa Maria. He's 16 now, so it's ok for him to work. But he has to work 12 hours a day for 6 days a week for about 100 soles a week, which is just over £20.00.

He came to see me yesterday in his work uniform. He's a waiter and has to wear smart clothes which they provide. So must be a reasonably good restaurant. He was looking very smart in his gear. Will post a photo on here shortly.

He tells me the owner of the restaurant is talking to him about going back to some college to further his education. Not quite sure if this means she will give him time off and still pay him, or what. He will go back to ask her but its kind of hard for him. He says her husband is a professor in some university here in Lima.

We've arranged to meet once a week on his day off, which is usually a Sunday and suits me, just as long as its a weekend day.

I'm really pleased to see him. I think he is the main reason I come back to Lima. Though the other kids are great too, he is a bit special for me. I've known him since he was 12, back in my days in La Policia in Cusco. Him and his brother crying in my arms because their mother/granny refused to take them back home.

Although he's 16 now he still takes my hand when we walk down the street, which is a bit awkward to say the least, Lima being quite a macho place, or so it seems to me. It was fine back in Cusco as he was a lot younger but even then drew some looks from the locals to see me with him on one hand and his brother on the other. First we met he did it but something distracted him and he stopped. Yesterday I decided I had to speak to him about it,tactfully of course. So when he took my hand in Larco, the busiest street here in Miraflores, I knew I had to say something. It's a shame really but such is life. He understood why it was not such a good idea in such a busy place and we agreed it would be ok in quiet places, not that one finds many such places in Lima.

San Antonio

I've started work in an orphanage called San Antonio in a district of Lima called Callao. Callao is the port for Lima, but is also a huge district, which extends for many miles, I think the airport is also in Callao. It's nearer to my apartment and a lot cheaper for me to get there than it is to get to Villa Maria.

San Antonio is run by INABIF, which means essentially thats its a government run orphanage.So I'm working with INABIF in two locations now.

Its the best run orphanage I've been to in Peru. Light years ahead of Hogar de Cristo. Which incidentally has now also been taken over by the government. So no more involvement by that Martin chap.

I will be working there on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings till about 12.30. Will be working with the older boys helping with homework, playing games and stuff. They like the fact that I speak Spanish with them. Lots of volunteers can't speak the lingo. It makes a huge diference, in so many ways.

I think I'm going to like working there, just getting to know the boys now. They go to school in the afternoons, but are in the home all morning.

Thanks to Ana Lidia for arranging my placement at San Antonio. http://www.tarpuysonqo.org/

San Juan

Went back to Villa Maria and met some of the kids again this week. Great to see them all again and they seemed happy to see me. They are such a friendly lot, and got lots of hugs from them.

I will be going there twice a week this time round but I will be going out with Pedro to work in a new location in San Juan. However will still be able to spend a short time with the kids of Villa Maria.

INABIF have started a new project in San Juan, which is another poor district near to Villa Maria. Poverty you learn is relative. The kids here seem poorer. They are smaller and less physically developed, at least the ones I've met so far. We will work in a place called Ciudad de Dios.

A lot of children have to work with their parents, usually their mothers, who work in the market in San Juan. It's mostly an open air market where everyting imaginable is for sale. Fruit, vegetables, meat, cds, dvds, clothes, clothes, shoes, household stuff, tvs, phones, carbon (coal) and lots more.

It's not the kind of place that I would be able to visit were it not for being with Pedro. Not really safe for a foreigner like myself to be there all alone. Of course I never see any such. But funnily enough I feel quite safe, and enjoy the adrenalin rush. It's quite bracing, though not in the same way as Skegness is bracing. For those of you who may be reading this and were with me in the 80s at all these SWP Easter rallies we used to enjoy. There's at least one or two of you around still.

INABIF have managed to find a room in a school in San Juan, which we have for our use with the kids. I've only been out the once so far but will be going every Tuesday and Thursday afternoon for 4 hours.

The work involves walking round the market with Pedro and looking for the kids. Pedro has worked here for a while so knows quite a few of them. Not all of them come everytime. They have lots of distractions and work to do.

On my first visit we ended up with 5 kids to take back to the centre. It's a bit odd walking around there with a bunch of kids in tow, but I'm welcomed by all the mums I've met so far. They seem to appreciate what Pedro and co are trying to do. And the kids are great, but more on that another time.