Wednesday, May 30, 2007
At Qoricancha, Ave el Sol
This is Qoricancha (Koricancha) which is opposite Maximo Nivel in Ave el Sol. The photo was taken by Eber.
Qoricancha was one of the most important temples in the Inca empire. It was home to 4,000 priests and also the main astronomical observatory for the Incas. Dedicated to worship of the sun, the temple was a glittering palace of gold: Qoricancha means "courtyard of gold" in Quechua.
Its walls were lined with gold panels, housed life size gold figures, solid gold altars, and a huge golden sun. Much of the wealth was removed to pay ransom for the captive Inca Atahualpa at the time of the Spanish conquest, but the Spaniards looted the temple anyway and emptied it of gold and used the polished stone walls to build the Dominican Convent of Santo Domingo on the site.
The Road to Chile
This is the road to Chile just south of Lima. Some day
I will drive down this road to Chile.
Thursday, May 24, 2007
A farewell party
I leave here tomorrow morning and have just said all my goodbyes to everyone at Maximo Nivel. Its been such a hectic few weeks and I've met so many people, and have so much to think about. Tonight the staff here gave me a gift of a beautiful bound notebook with lots of messages written for me. I had to stop reading them as I was going to cry. Will read on plane tomorrow.
Yesterday was my last day at La Policia and the other volunteers who work there organised a party for me. Its was most unexpected. The children all did drawings for me. More drawings. So many I will have to pay extra for my baggage. The literate ones wrote me really kind messages, which say lots of nice things. I will post some of them when I get back and have more time. One boy told me that Peru waits for me with open arms. Lots more.
I saw Fernando in the street and I watched him from across the road as he did some gentle shop lifting. He is ace at it. He came to MN and borrowed one sole off Heidi. We think the police have just let him out to get rid of him. He says he goes back but I reckon he is back on the streets. Certainly not been seen at La Policia for last few days.
Robin and Eber were here with me today. They will miss me lots and me them. Maybe I will come back and open that restaurant Eber wants.
Must go now. PS the kids made me dance. I survived. My blood pressure must have been sky high.
Yesterday was my last day at La Policia and the other volunteers who work there organised a party for me. Its was most unexpected. The children all did drawings for me. More drawings. So many I will have to pay extra for my baggage. The literate ones wrote me really kind messages, which say lots of nice things. I will post some of them when I get back and have more time. One boy told me that Peru waits for me with open arms. Lots more.
I saw Fernando in the street and I watched him from across the road as he did some gentle shop lifting. He is ace at it. He came to MN and borrowed one sole off Heidi. We think the police have just let him out to get rid of him. He says he goes back but I reckon he is back on the streets. Certainly not been seen at La Policia for last few days.
Robin and Eber were here with me today. They will miss me lots and me them. Maybe I will come back and open that restaurant Eber wants.
Must go now. PS the kids made me dance. I survived. My blood pressure must have been sky high.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Mandela's Bar, Saturday Night
Saturday night I went to Mandela's Bar for the last time, at least this time round. The band were on tremendous form. I reckon they knew it was my last night so they rocked the joint one more time just for me. At least that's what I like to imagine. They are a seven piece band in quite a small room, playing various instruments, some of which I have never seen the like, and they all sing. Just brilliant.
I've put some pics in this posting from the bar, but I can't put any on of the band as they are still in my camera and every time I try to download from my camera it messes up my memory card. The nice man in the camera shop I use told me that this is a common problem with XD cards. The ten commandments is worth enlarging to check out how much more sensible they are than thou shalt not kill , or the one about graven images and no other gods etc. The latter is certainly ignored in these parts. Give me some Calvinistic austerity please, I've seen too many virgins for my own good and as for the images of Christ bleeding away up there and down there in his grave, well its all too much for a simple man like me.
Tonight I'm off to see my bluesmen for the last time. Hope he does his Dylan number for me.
Monday, May 21, 2007
Homework, cops and thieves.
Yesterday Eber and Robin came to meet me at Maximo Nivel. Its quiet on a Sunday and they can get to use the PCs to their hearts content. I managed to persuade them to bring in their homework and we did that together once they had enough of the PC games.
I did my Spanish and Eber worked on his Spanish writing, which I was able to help him with. Robin had some maths to do, long division, which he was having dificulty with. They seem to do it different here to what I'm used to, or at least was used to. So when Eber finished his the three of us got stuck into Robin's long division. It proved too much for me. I never was much good at maths, but I have clean forgotten how to do long division. I blame calculators. I just kept thinking where's Coinneach when you need him. You should be here to help these boys you know, seeing as you're the mathematician in the family. The end result was that Robin is going to ask his teacher for more help. I wish I had asked them to bring their homework before now, but as my mother would say you live and learn.
Last week Eber had told me that he wanted me to adopt him and starting calling me papa. Cheeky monkey. Yesterday he decided it would be better if I came back next year and the three of us opened a restaurant together and him and Robin would then have good jobs. Tempting. I think he gets the idea from Yanapay Restaurant. He's always asking about Yuri. They don't believe he comes from Peru. I think this is because of the social class diference. Yuri comes from a totally different social background and they are not used to mixing with that class. But they do fine.
Eber and I had a discussion about religion and belief the other day. He is a believer but does not like church. He thinks God is up in the sky watching us. I think I heard that one before. I didn't give him too much atheism. But he was interested in why I didn't believe. He's a good kid. They both are. We decided to agree to disagree.
I walked them to their bus stop and I had to stop to take their notebooks out of my bag. A policeman came up and gave Robin a clout on the head. Hard. this was totally without reason. He then turned to me and told me to watch my bag as these boys would steal from it given the chance. By then Robin was ready to cause a serious disturbance, and I could not blame him really. But I had to calm him down. I told the cop I knew them and that they were with me. I spoke their names and asked them to walk along with me so that he would be in no doubt that they were with me. He just looked at me as though I was nuts. Its no wonder these boys find it hard to accept the police. It was bloody awful. I was a bit worried that I might have a diplomatic incident on my hands. Fortunately Robin decided to walk away from the provocation. They rightly did not like the idea of me thinking they were a couple of thieves, which I don't think for one minute, but I do understand their being upset. They want me to think the best of them, and I do.
I did my Spanish and Eber worked on his Spanish writing, which I was able to help him with. Robin had some maths to do, long division, which he was having dificulty with. They seem to do it different here to what I'm used to, or at least was used to. So when Eber finished his the three of us got stuck into Robin's long division. It proved too much for me. I never was much good at maths, but I have clean forgotten how to do long division. I blame calculators. I just kept thinking where's Coinneach when you need him. You should be here to help these boys you know, seeing as you're the mathematician in the family. The end result was that Robin is going to ask his teacher for more help. I wish I had asked them to bring their homework before now, but as my mother would say you live and learn.
Last week Eber had told me that he wanted me to adopt him and starting calling me papa. Cheeky monkey. Yesterday he decided it would be better if I came back next year and the three of us opened a restaurant together and him and Robin would then have good jobs. Tempting. I think he gets the idea from Yanapay Restaurant. He's always asking about Yuri. They don't believe he comes from Peru. I think this is because of the social class diference. Yuri comes from a totally different social background and they are not used to mixing with that class. But they do fine.
Eber and I had a discussion about religion and belief the other day. He is a believer but does not like church. He thinks God is up in the sky watching us. I think I heard that one before. I didn't give him too much atheism. But he was interested in why I didn't believe. He's a good kid. They both are. We decided to agree to disagree.
I walked them to their bus stop and I had to stop to take their notebooks out of my bag. A policeman came up and gave Robin a clout on the head. Hard. this was totally without reason. He then turned to me and told me to watch my bag as these boys would steal from it given the chance. By then Robin was ready to cause a serious disturbance, and I could not blame him really. But I had to calm him down. I told the cop I knew them and that they were with me. I spoke their names and asked them to walk along with me so that he would be in no doubt that they were with me. He just looked at me as though I was nuts. Its no wonder these boys find it hard to accept the police. It was bloody awful. I was a bit worried that I might have a diplomatic incident on my hands. Fortunately Robin decided to walk away from the provocation. They rightly did not like the idea of me thinking they were a couple of thieves, which I don't think for one minute, but I do understand their being upset. They want me to think the best of them, and I do.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Cuesta San Blas
Cuesta San Blas with Jack's Cafe on the left hand corner. No queues yet as its early. I usually rest at the bottom before climbing home. Lots of cafes and one or two bars hereabouts.
This is the view of Cuesta San Blas half way up, as I go home. Usually its dark by then. Taxis come down this hill so you are forever stepping off the pavement to dodge people and back on to dodge taxis. Its a struggle to get to the top without resting. My blood pressure can't take all the excitement. I'm still trying to work out how I managed Camino Inca a couple years back.
Going down every morning is easy. The bakery El Buen Pastor is on the right.Plaza San Blas and Atoqsayk'uchi
Plaza San Blas is just along from my apartment. The bar where the bluesmen play is just above this fountain. Its called Muse.
Atoqsayk'uchi is my street. Its the one at the end with the blue doors. My apartment is just up to the left from these doors. See previous posting for pic of apartment. Click for better view. The word is Quechua and means "tired coyote". Someone told me why but I forget. If I remember I will get back to it sometime. Its in Barrio San Blas.My Apartment
My apartment is the door on the left and my balcony is the one you can see just above. Me gusta. This was taken early in the morning as the sun was rising.My last pic of Fernando, unless he comes back
This is him looking cheeky and innocent as the day he was born, and with a feather in his hair. Sorry pic is on its side but thats the way it is and to change it I would need to save on this pc etc. I'm sure it can be viewed right way round tho.Basilio listens to The Beatles
This was my last visit to him and he was a little unwell as can be seen. The photo is taken in the study room at Jesus mi Luz, which is where we did his homework etc. He's beginning to grow up now. I notice a difference since I arrived even. Not too sure what he thinks about going back to his dad.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Last visit with Basilio
Today was my last time seeing Basilio this time round. He was unwell and in his bed when I called but got up when he saw me. We just sat in the study room and he did some drawings and listened to the Beatles on my mp3 player. He likes them a lot, as do many of the kids.
Some of the other boys joined us and played some games. I gave him an origami kit as a parting gift which he seemed to like.
It was a funny feeling leaving him and not knowing whether we will see each other again. Lets hope things work out for him at home and I've promised to visit him there if I come back next year.
I had meant to post a couple of pictures but me camera is playing up. Just seen the bad news from Wembley. Still we are league champs and will be even better next year.
Some of the other boys joined us and played some games. I gave him an origami kit as a parting gift which he seemed to like.
It was a funny feeling leaving him and not knowing whether we will see each other again. Lets hope things work out for him at home and I've promised to visit him there if I come back next year.
I had meant to post a couple of pictures but me camera is playing up. Just seen the bad news from Wembley. Still we are league champs and will be even better next year.
Friday, May 18, 2007
José, Cristian and Jorge
I've worked with lots of kids in La Policia over the past few weeks and liked them all. Its hard to remember them all but some do stay in my memory for whatever reason. Mostly because they have been there longer than the rest but also because I got on so well with them, as I do with all of them really.
José has been there for a few weeks but expects to move to an orphanage today. Though he has been saying so for a few days now. I know the orphanage and will try to visit him before I leave next week if indeed he has gone. José likes to draw and has given me many drawings to take home as well as a dream catcher he made this week. I suggested he give it to Martha, another volunteer who had been helping him, but he insisted it was for me. Today he gave me another of his drawings on which he had written a message to say thanks and ended with "I will always remember you". He brought a tear to my eye and even now it moves me. He's 13 and has not had an easy life, like most of the kids there, so for him to go to the bother of writing me that message was for me one of the best things that have happened here. Its hard for me to explain to him how much it meant though I suspect he knows from my reaction.
Cristian is another boy who likes to draw for me and just gets on well with me. He did a drawing for me earlier in the week on which he had written the message, "God bless you and thank you for all your kindness to us all". Also a bit overwhelming to say the least. He's a good kid and for him to thank me on behalf of them all was a great moment. And all because I bring them a few apples every day and spend time playing and chatting to them. Brilliant kids. I wish I could do more for them.
Jorge is another boy who is no longer in La Policia de la Familia. He is also 13 years old and went home to stay with his parents again. Yesterday I had my lunch in a restaurant called Granje Heidi, which does an excellent 3 course lunch for 18 soles, about 3 pounds. I was sitting in Plaza de Armas letting relaxing in the sun before going back to MN, and minding my own business, when I saw this boy running towards me a shouting my name. Of course it was Jorge who was there selling postcards, which is a popular alternative to shoe shining. He was so pleased to see me I can hardly explain it. He'd said before he left the PF that he would come to see me at MN but I never really expected to see him there. He was sitting on the bench chatting to me and telling me about how he has to work because he has 10 younger brothers and sisters - they like big families here, good Catholic country - when a man came to talk to him. Jorge stayed facing me and did not turn round to answer the guy, who was asking him about how much money he had. Obviously up to no good. Eventually he left and I also had to leave, but he aked to come with me. As I was heading for MN I told him just to come along. I assume he wanted just to get away from the guy. I'm told there is some kind of "mafia" who control and take advantage of the children. He ended up back at MN with me and I introduced him to Heide and Eliza. He told me the man was bad to him and when I asked if he hit him he said yes. He played on the computers here for about an hour and was happy. I took him to his bus stop and sent him off home. He also goes to school at night 3 times a week, like Eber and Robin. I hope to see him again before I leave and he knows he can come to MN anytime.
No news on Fernando today. Heidi is going to Calca this weekend and will look for him.
José has been there for a few weeks but expects to move to an orphanage today. Though he has been saying so for a few days now. I know the orphanage and will try to visit him before I leave next week if indeed he has gone. José likes to draw and has given me many drawings to take home as well as a dream catcher he made this week. I suggested he give it to Martha, another volunteer who had been helping him, but he insisted it was for me. Today he gave me another of his drawings on which he had written a message to say thanks and ended with "I will always remember you". He brought a tear to my eye and even now it moves me. He's 13 and has not had an easy life, like most of the kids there, so for him to go to the bother of writing me that message was for me one of the best things that have happened here. Its hard for me to explain to him how much it meant though I suspect he knows from my reaction.
Cristian is another boy who likes to draw for me and just gets on well with me. He did a drawing for me earlier in the week on which he had written the message, "God bless you and thank you for all your kindness to us all". Also a bit overwhelming to say the least. He's a good kid and for him to thank me on behalf of them all was a great moment. And all because I bring them a few apples every day and spend time playing and chatting to them. Brilliant kids. I wish I could do more for them.
Jorge is another boy who is no longer in La Policia de la Familia. He is also 13 years old and went home to stay with his parents again. Yesterday I had my lunch in a restaurant called Granje Heidi, which does an excellent 3 course lunch for 18 soles, about 3 pounds. I was sitting in Plaza de Armas letting relaxing in the sun before going back to MN, and minding my own business, when I saw this boy running towards me a shouting my name. Of course it was Jorge who was there selling postcards, which is a popular alternative to shoe shining. He was so pleased to see me I can hardly explain it. He'd said before he left the PF that he would come to see me at MN but I never really expected to see him there. He was sitting on the bench chatting to me and telling me about how he has to work because he has 10 younger brothers and sisters - they like big families here, good Catholic country - when a man came to talk to him. Jorge stayed facing me and did not turn round to answer the guy, who was asking him about how much money he had. Obviously up to no good. Eventually he left and I also had to leave, but he aked to come with me. As I was heading for MN I told him just to come along. I assume he wanted just to get away from the guy. I'm told there is some kind of "mafia" who control and take advantage of the children. He ended up back at MN with me and I introduced him to Heide and Eliza. He told me the man was bad to him and when I asked if he hit him he said yes. He played on the computers here for about an hour and was happy. I took him to his bus stop and sent him off home. He also goes to school at night 3 times a week, like Eber and Robin. I hope to see him again before I leave and he knows he can come to MN anytime.
No news on Fernando today. Heidi is going to Calca this weekend and will look for him.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
La vida en Cusco
He estado en Cusco cinco semanas hasta ahora. Me gusto mucho la vida aquí. Vivo en apartamento en el barrio San Blas. El apartamento es pequeño pero es muy cómodo. Los Peruanos dicen departamento no apartamento. Es como un "loft apartment".
Hay un balcón y dos ventanas en el techno. Antes de dormir puedo ver las estrellas y le luna de me cama (algunos veces).
Un amigo en Cusco, quien vive cerca de mi apartamento me ha prestado una radio y tambien tengo dvd player pero no he mirado muchas peliculas porque estoy cansado cuando regresso a casa.
Camino a mis clases de español a las siete y media del dia y compro dos panes en la panaderia del Buen Pastor en la Cuesta San Blas. San Blas es muy alto con muchas gradas. Cuando voy a Maximo Nivel en la manaña es facil, pero es muy difícil cuando regreso en la noche.
Hay un balcón y dos ventanas en el techno. Antes de dormir puedo ver las estrellas y le luna de me cama (algunos veces).
Un amigo en Cusco, quien vive cerca de mi apartamento me ha prestado una radio y tambien tengo dvd player pero no he mirado muchas peliculas porque estoy cansado cuando regresso a casa.
Camino a mis clases de español a las siete y media del dia y compro dos panes en la panaderia del Buen Pastor en la Cuesta San Blas. San Blas es muy alto con muchas gradas. Cuando voy a Maximo Nivel en la manaña es facil, pero es muy difícil cuando regreso en la noche.
Fernando has left the building
Today Fernando was taken to court and I was not told despite being at La Policia when they took him away.
This week I eventually got a psychologist to see him. She is a friend of my Spanish teacher, highly qualified and experienced in working with street children. She came to meet Fernando for the first time on Monday at La Policia de la Familia. We decided to take him away from the PF and took him to a park so that she could get to know him and make initial observations. The main session was set for Tuesday at her house.
Everything went well and he got on famously with Wilma. He played with some dolls which were for use the next day at the full session. Heidi and I left Wilma at her house and got a taxi back to the PF. I suggested we take him to a cafe for an ice cream as he'd been so good, which he often is. This was a mistake. We asked him not to take the dolls back to the PF as they would get lost or broken. He refused and when we insisted he made a dive for the door to escape. Fortunately he was wearing a big jacket which I was able to grap as I jumped after him. After this everything went down hill rapidly. He basically lost the plot and would not or could not calm down and kept trying to escape. He kicked a table and a couple of chairs over and eventually I had no choice but to hold him on the floor till help arrived. Heidi called the police and one of them came and we took him back to the PF in a taxi, still struggling wildly.
The end result of all this was that the police refused to let him out with me anymore and would not themselves take him to the psychologist. So the meeting on Tuesday with Wilma had to be cancelled. It was a huge disappointment to me and everyone else who has tried to help over past few weeks.
Since then he has calmed down and been a good boy. He apologised to me the next day, so at least he understands that he was out of order. But at the same time I don't think he can help it as he seems to have no control over his behaviour or any idea about the harm he is doing to himself. He definitely has some kind of mental health problem and from her initial observations this is what the psychologist thinks too.
Today I was at the PF in the morning as usual. The police came for him and took him away. We eventually discovered that he had been taken to for a court appearance but the police didn't ask me to go this time. To cut a long story short the court today decided to send him back to Calca to live with his grandparents. When I got back to Maximo Nivel at one o'clock Heidi was looking for me to tell me all about this and also that the guy at the court whom I'd met previously had been trying to get hold of me to accompany Fernando back to Calca, which is about an hour and a bit away. Fernando, had understandably kicked up a fuss about their plans and made sure they knew he was not willing or wanting to go there. They thought that I might help him adjust to the idea of going back. Even though I was not in agreement with their plans I would have gone with him so that he would at least have someone he knew and trusted. But I suspect he would not have had time for me either. Fernando in a fury is no easy matter and like someone once said "is not for turning" until he is ready.
We phoned the court but by then they had taken Fernando away to Calca so I was unable to accompany him anyway. I'm sure the police must have known my whereabouts and could have told the court.
I'm very upset about all this, if only because I was not able to say goodbye to him. I recall same thing happening last time. But not only that he has some serious unresolved health problems. His scabies is the least of them. Heidi from Maximo Nivel, and I took him for further blood tests last week and we are still waiting for the results to come back from Lima.
I'm sure that Fernando will not stay with his grandparents and will escape at the earliest opportunity. He may even have done so as I speak. If so with any luck he will make his way back to Cusco and I will see him again before I leave next week. Lets hope so. Life for him on the streets will be hard. I just hopè he comes to no harm.
This week I eventually got a psychologist to see him. She is a friend of my Spanish teacher, highly qualified and experienced in working with street children. She came to meet Fernando for the first time on Monday at La Policia de la Familia. We decided to take him away from the PF and took him to a park so that she could get to know him and make initial observations. The main session was set for Tuesday at her house.
Everything went well and he got on famously with Wilma. He played with some dolls which were for use the next day at the full session. Heidi and I left Wilma at her house and got a taxi back to the PF. I suggested we take him to a cafe for an ice cream as he'd been so good, which he often is. This was a mistake. We asked him not to take the dolls back to the PF as they would get lost or broken. He refused and when we insisted he made a dive for the door to escape. Fortunately he was wearing a big jacket which I was able to grap as I jumped after him. After this everything went down hill rapidly. He basically lost the plot and would not or could not calm down and kept trying to escape. He kicked a table and a couple of chairs over and eventually I had no choice but to hold him on the floor till help arrived. Heidi called the police and one of them came and we took him back to the PF in a taxi, still struggling wildly.
The end result of all this was that the police refused to let him out with me anymore and would not themselves take him to the psychologist. So the meeting on Tuesday with Wilma had to be cancelled. It was a huge disappointment to me and everyone else who has tried to help over past few weeks.
Since then he has calmed down and been a good boy. He apologised to me the next day, so at least he understands that he was out of order. But at the same time I don't think he can help it as he seems to have no control over his behaviour or any idea about the harm he is doing to himself. He definitely has some kind of mental health problem and from her initial observations this is what the psychologist thinks too.
Today I was at the PF in the morning as usual. The police came for him and took him away. We eventually discovered that he had been taken to for a court appearance but the police didn't ask me to go this time. To cut a long story short the court today decided to send him back to Calca to live with his grandparents. When I got back to Maximo Nivel at one o'clock Heidi was looking for me to tell me all about this and also that the guy at the court whom I'd met previously had been trying to get hold of me to accompany Fernando back to Calca, which is about an hour and a bit away. Fernando, had understandably kicked up a fuss about their plans and made sure they knew he was not willing or wanting to go there. They thought that I might help him adjust to the idea of going back. Even though I was not in agreement with their plans I would have gone with him so that he would at least have someone he knew and trusted. But I suspect he would not have had time for me either. Fernando in a fury is no easy matter and like someone once said "is not for turning" until he is ready.
We phoned the court but by then they had taken Fernando away to Calca so I was unable to accompany him anyway. I'm sure the police must have known my whereabouts and could have told the court.
I'm very upset about all this, if only because I was not able to say goodbye to him. I recall same thing happening last time. But not only that he has some serious unresolved health problems. His scabies is the least of them. Heidi from Maximo Nivel, and I took him for further blood tests last week and we are still waiting for the results to come back from Lima.
I'm sure that Fernando will not stay with his grandparents and will escape at the earliest opportunity. He may even have done so as I speak. If so with any luck he will make his way back to Cusco and I will see him again before I leave next week. Lets hope so. Life for him on the streets will be hard. I just hopè he comes to no harm.
Sunday, May 13, 2007
Waterboys
I have a ticket for the Waterboys concert at The Festival Theatre, Edinburgh on 20 May 2007. As I'm not now going to be back in Edinburgh until 25 May, I will not be going. If anyone would like to use it email me at donald.maciver@gmail.co and I will let you know how to get your hands on the ticket. There will be no charge for the ticket unless you feel very strongly about it.
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Saturdays
Saturday mornings I get up late, at 8 am. Leisurely shower and shave then stroll down Cuests san Blas for breakfast in a friendly wee cafe where I get a full English for 18 soles. About 3 Scottish pounds or the price of a coffee in Borders. Yummee. If there is no-one chatting at my table, and there usually is, I read my book. Now in Paul Auster's New York Trilogy. For which, many thanks to Chris. And I can see why you like it so much. Just your kind of story and a bit of philosophy thrown in for goo measure. Excellent choice. But I don't think I will be taking you on board as a political adviser. Lets stick to movies. Have you seen Walk the Line yet. Great scene when he plays Folsam Prison Blues for Sam the first time and the band pick up his tune.
Back to Saturday. I meander down to Plaza de Armas where I sit in the sunshine for half an hour, and get chatted to by lots of postcard sellers. Which reminds me of last Wednesday in Ynapay with Robin and Eber. I heard this wee voice calling my name but could see no-one. Then this face appears from behind another table and its a wee fellow who remembered me from La Policia. His name is Jose Antonio and he is only 9 years of age. He must have followed me into the cafe. I bought him lunch with Eber and Robin and we chatted. He said he loved the apples I bought to La Policia every day, and wanted to know if I has an apple tree. Sweet kid. He sells chiclets in the street, like little sweets. He says he does not go home till after 9 pm. Lives with mum. On leaving he tried to sell me some. Cheeky monkey.
After my rest in Plaza de Armas its off to Jesus me Luz ro visit Basilio. He is in good form today and delightlful company. We spend 30 minutes on homework, reading and maths, have a chat with Elita, who runs the orphanage, and she shows us the folder which she keeps with a record of what they have spent all my donations on. A nice moment and complete surprise. Basilio is expected to go back to live with his dad in August. I left him some money for when he moves to pay for school etc. Made another donation for rest of the kids. I will miss Basilio and I think he will miss me, but we've had good times so good memories for him and whop knows I will be back next year. Next week will be last Saturday I will see him this time round.
On leaving Jesus mi Luz I walk along Ave Grau heading for Maximo Nivel. When I'm tapped on the shoulder by Eber who has come along to see me at MN. No Robin.
Eber is with me now at MN playing games on another pc. Tomorrow is Mothers Day. We are off to buy some flowers for his mum. His idea and my money. Pennies really.
No spell check today. PC is nuts. Must go. More later on Fernando and his ongoing saga.
Back to Saturday. I meander down to Plaza de Armas where I sit in the sunshine for half an hour, and get chatted to by lots of postcard sellers. Which reminds me of last Wednesday in Ynapay with Robin and Eber. I heard this wee voice calling my name but could see no-one. Then this face appears from behind another table and its a wee fellow who remembered me from La Policia. His name is Jose Antonio and he is only 9 years of age. He must have followed me into the cafe. I bought him lunch with Eber and Robin and we chatted. He said he loved the apples I bought to La Policia every day, and wanted to know if I has an apple tree. Sweet kid. He sells chiclets in the street, like little sweets. He says he does not go home till after 9 pm. Lives with mum. On leaving he tried to sell me some. Cheeky monkey.
After my rest in Plaza de Armas its off to Jesus me Luz ro visit Basilio. He is in good form today and delightlful company. We spend 30 minutes on homework, reading and maths, have a chat with Elita, who runs the orphanage, and she shows us the folder which she keeps with a record of what they have spent all my donations on. A nice moment and complete surprise. Basilio is expected to go back to live with his dad in August. I left him some money for when he moves to pay for school etc. Made another donation for rest of the kids. I will miss Basilio and I think he will miss me, but we've had good times so good memories for him and whop knows I will be back next year. Next week will be last Saturday I will see him this time round.
On leaving Jesus mi Luz I walk along Ave Grau heading for Maximo Nivel. When I'm tapped on the shoulder by Eber who has come along to see me at MN. No Robin.
Eber is with me now at MN playing games on another pc. Tomorrow is Mothers Day. We are off to buy some flowers for his mum. His idea and my money. Pennies really.
No spell check today. PC is nuts. Must go. More later on Fernando and his ongoing saga.
Friday, May 11, 2007
At Ollantaytambo
These photos were taken in Ollantaytambo
The guy with the big cudgel is Inca Ollantay, an Inca prince. I'm not sure what he is famous for. Someone tells me he lead a rebellion against the Spaniards. He had no chance. No wonder the Incas lost everything. Cudgels v guns? Nice cudgel, mind.
Its good to see Hearts doing outreach work in Peru, don't you think.
Eber in The Sacred Valley
The tour of The Sacred Valley was exhausting but exhilarating. Robin didn't make it for reasons unknown, so it was just Eber and me and a coach load of mostly Europeans with one or two yanks and Aussies. It was a small group which made it more friendly and intimate. They all wanted to know about Eber of course and to talk to him.
It was a 12 hour day which included a 2 hour hike round the ruins at Pisac. I was more tired after that than I was after the Inca Trail. Pisac is one of the most important Inca sites after Machu Picchu.
The first photo is Eber with Rio Urubamba and The Sacred Valley behind him. He enjoyed his day but I think he was pretty tired by the end of it all. He fell asleep on the coach back.
This is him admiring a hole in the rocks as we walked round the mountain. He collected lots of flowers and stuff to take back to his mum.
More photos on next posting. Its easier just to post photos on their own. Or so it seems to me.
Saturday, May 05, 2007
The Sacred Valley
There are many important Inca sites in The Sacred Valley. Mostly destroyed by the Spaniards and now only ruins remain, with Spanish buildings on top of most of these ruins. Much like Cusco itself. There are too many for me to visit them all. I've been to a few already, including Machu Picchu and other sites along the Camino Inca, and some last year when I went in search of Fernando.
Many people from Cusco have never visited these places, and of course most Peruvians have never been to Cusco, never mind The Sacred Valley.
I'm going on a day tour tomorrow to visit four of the most important ones. I've decided to take Eber and Robin with me. Eber and I went to meet their mother today to get her ok. Robin was using the school computers, as Saturday is one of their school days, so Eber had come to meet me on his own.
Of course mama was delighted. I'm never quite sure of the dynamics of this family. It seems to change frequently. The boys live such chaotic lives. I met a sister aged 15, whom I never knew existed. They are all very friendly to me. I just hope I don't get invited back for dinner. A refusal often offends as they say. Dad is nowhere to be seen at present and does not seem to have been around since I arrived here. They appear to have moved in with mama on a temporary basis. Which may or may not be good news.
Eber and I then went to SAS Travel in Plaza de Armas to buy our tickets. This is the company who organised and provided guides for the Camino Inca three years ago. There are still the same people running it and they are very helpful, and cheaper than the rest. Including getting the boys into the sites for free, which the other companies won't do. They will also drive us up to the ruins at Pisac, which are very high up and not included by other companies. We walk back down; which is nice. Going to Pisac and not visiting the Inca site seems daft.
Its an early morning start for a Sunday. 8.30 am and return at 6 pm. We will be visiting Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Lunch will be in Urubamba.
So while the rest of you are watching Arsenal beat Chelsea, to help Man U clinch the title for the ninth time for Fergie, I will be in The Sacred Valley. Lets hope Wenger and his crew do us all a favour. The least said about other football events this past week the better.
Many people from Cusco have never visited these places, and of course most Peruvians have never been to Cusco, never mind The Sacred Valley.
I'm going on a day tour tomorrow to visit four of the most important ones. I've decided to take Eber and Robin with me. Eber and I went to meet their mother today to get her ok. Robin was using the school computers, as Saturday is one of their school days, so Eber had come to meet me on his own.
Of course mama was delighted. I'm never quite sure of the dynamics of this family. It seems to change frequently. The boys live such chaotic lives. I met a sister aged 15, whom I never knew existed. They are all very friendly to me. I just hope I don't get invited back for dinner. A refusal often offends as they say. Dad is nowhere to be seen at present and does not seem to have been around since I arrived here. They appear to have moved in with mama on a temporary basis. Which may or may not be good news.
Eber and I then went to SAS Travel in Plaza de Armas to buy our tickets. This is the company who organised and provided guides for the Camino Inca three years ago. There are still the same people running it and they are very helpful, and cheaper than the rest. Including getting the boys into the sites for free, which the other companies won't do. They will also drive us up to the ruins at Pisac, which are very high up and not included by other companies. We walk back down; which is nice. Going to Pisac and not visiting the Inca site seems daft.
Its an early morning start for a Sunday. 8.30 am and return at 6 pm. We will be visiting Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero. Lunch will be in Urubamba.
So while the rest of you are watching Arsenal beat Chelsea, to help Man U clinch the title for the ninth time for Fergie, I will be in The Sacred Valley. Lets hope Wenger and his crew do us all a favour. The least said about other football events this past week the better.
Friday, May 04, 2007
"Everyman"
Not much time for reading here in Cusco but I manage to fit in enough time to read my old friend Philip Roth's latest masterpiece. And masterpiece it sure is. I've been recommending Roth to lots of people over the years and even bought him for a few. Don't know how many have taken my advice, some I hope, but "Everyman" is another work of genius from America's finest. The UK has no-one to compare.
I was reading "On Beauty" on the plane over here and kept Roth for a treat for my self in Cusco. Zadie Smith is ok, but reading "Everyman" just makes her seem ordinary. There's a quote on every page, in fact every page is quotable, just about.
I've been reading him since "Portnoy's Complaint", which was not yesterday, and he's never let me down. He's in his 70s now, and for me that's one helluva an inspiration to keep going. Along with Bob of course. Long may they both live.
For readers getting on in years, and there are a few of you, this is a must read book. You will face the future with confidence, no matter what. I must finish this post with Roth on religion with apologies to the believers who may be reading.
"Religion was a lie that he had recognised early in life, and he found all religions offensive, considered their superstitious folderol meaningless, childish, couldn't stand the complete unadultness - the baby talk and the righteousness and the sheep, the avid believers. No hocus pocus about death and God or obsolete fantasies of heaven for him. There was only our bodies, born to live and die on terms decided by the bodies that had lived and died before us."
A bit savage but honest. There's lots more like that. So much of it reminds me of things in my own life. Was going to say more but time runs out.
He is a private man and does not seem to have a website of his own. But lots about him in Wikipedia and elsewhere. Read the book. Its good for you.
I was reading "On Beauty" on the plane over here and kept Roth for a treat for my self in Cusco. Zadie Smith is ok, but reading "Everyman" just makes her seem ordinary. There's a quote on every page, in fact every page is quotable, just about.
I've been reading him since "Portnoy's Complaint", which was not yesterday, and he's never let me down. He's in his 70s now, and for me that's one helluva an inspiration to keep going. Along with Bob of course. Long may they both live.
For readers getting on in years, and there are a few of you, this is a must read book. You will face the future with confidence, no matter what. I must finish this post with Roth on religion with apologies to the believers who may be reading.
"Religion was a lie that he had recognised early in life, and he found all religions offensive, considered their superstitious folderol meaningless, childish, couldn't stand the complete unadultness - the baby talk and the righteousness and the sheep, the avid believers. No hocus pocus about death and God or obsolete fantasies of heaven for him. There was only our bodies, born to live and die on terms decided by the bodies that had lived and died before us."
A bit savage but honest. There's lots more like that. So much of it reminds me of things in my own life. Was going to say more but time runs out.
He is a private man and does not seem to have a website of his own. But lots about him in Wikipedia and elsewhere. Read the book. Its good for you.
A Birthday Party
Wednesday was Eber's 13th birthday. I bought him a cake and we had a wee celebration party in Yanapay. Yuri and the rest of the workers there, sang happy birthday for him, in Spanish of course, as he blew out the one candle I could find for his cake. His face was a picture to say the least. Of course he got no presents except the clothes I bought for him and Robin last weekend. Here they both are in their fancy hats and wearing their new clothes. They insist on buying trousers way too long for them. But apparently its the fashion in Cusco right now.
"Two cheeks of the same arse"
George Galloway on Tony and Gordon, last week in Edinburgh. Shame about Tommy, but I'm sure he'll be back.
Being here in Peru makes me think I should go back to SWP and join Solidarity. What else is there? Will have to consult my political advisers when I get back.
Being here in Peru makes me think I should go back to SWP and join Solidarity. What else is there? Will have to consult my political advisers when I get back.
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
El día de los trabajadores
My first May day away from the UK. Most people are on holiday here today. I saw a couple of workers' marches and small rallies, a bit like Edinburgh. Maximo Nivel is closed for classes but is open for volunteers and students to use the facilities. Which is what I'm doing now.
I'm not forgetting that many of my workmates in Edinburgh and elsewhere are on strike today. I did think of you all whilst I watched workers in Cusco take to the streets. I hope the day was a success and that Gordon Brown has been brought to his senses. Some hope. It grieves me to think that he is vying with Thatcher in his efforts to put us civil servants down. I fear that where Thatcher failed he will succeed, and there will be few of us left who are not in the private sector. A one day strike wont stop them, but we have to start somewhere.
I will be donating a days pay and more to the various organisations I'm involved with here in Cusco to make up for the fact that I'm here on annual leave.
Today I had my Spanish class in Jack's Cafe and treated Claudia to breakfast at 8 am. Jack's is owned by the same guy who owns the Irish Bar, Paddy O' Flaherty's. By the time we left just before 10 am they were queuing up to get in. I walk past it every night on my way home and people are always waiting to get in. Its not that good and especially when there are so many other choices available. It reminds me of my drinking days in Glasgow, which were few, of course, but those who were around may recall the queues outside some of the pubs in Byres Road. I'm sure Neil will remember if no-one else can. Maybe they still do it of course. Glaswegians are like that. Maybe the people waiting outside Jack's are from Glasgow. Will have to ask them tonight.
Other than that I was at La Policia de la Familia today as usual. No holiday for the kids there. There are lots of teenage boys there this week. Lots of aggression around. Not against me, they all seem to respect me for some reason. Maybe they like me. I had to stop a couple of fights before things got out of hand. Fortunately they accept my interventions and desist. God knows what would happen if they didn't. So I pretend to be fearless, which is not quite the case. And the police are nowhere to be seen.
I've had to be strict with Fernando to allow me time to play with these kids, which he accepts reluctantly. But at least he accepts. We play cards and dominoes and connect 4. It passes the time for them and lets them calm down and talk a little. They all want to be my friend. Which is nice but not easy to keep them all happy. I do my best but there are so many of them. Its hard enough to remember all their names from day to day.
Today I brought one of the boys some underpants as his tracksuit bottoms were split open. Which for a 13 year old with girls in the room is not easy. Needless to say he was delighted. I managed to give them to him without anyone other than F. noticing. He went away to change in the loo and he came back in a smiling boy. Amazing what a difference a small gesture makes.
Chelsea got beat, which serves Mourhinho right considering what he has been saying about our boy Ronaldo. Fergie's response was pur Fergie of course. Which is what you would expect from a Glasgow boy. "What Ronaldo has got are principles, ........... Whereas some people who are educated have no principles, so we're leaving the matter that way."
Big game tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Its on here at 1.30 pm. I've booked my seat in Nortons and cancelled all appointments.
Cienciano took a beating in Mexico, 3-0, just in case anyone is interested. A defeat but not an embarrassment. They are on the way up, though I do wonder how much the altitude here in Cusco helps them along.
Must go. Tarea to do then wee visit to see the bluesmen again all being well.
I'm not forgetting that many of my workmates in Edinburgh and elsewhere are on strike today. I did think of you all whilst I watched workers in Cusco take to the streets. I hope the day was a success and that Gordon Brown has been brought to his senses. Some hope. It grieves me to think that he is vying with Thatcher in his efforts to put us civil servants down. I fear that where Thatcher failed he will succeed, and there will be few of us left who are not in the private sector. A one day strike wont stop them, but we have to start somewhere.
I will be donating a days pay and more to the various organisations I'm involved with here in Cusco to make up for the fact that I'm here on annual leave.
Today I had my Spanish class in Jack's Cafe and treated Claudia to breakfast at 8 am. Jack's is owned by the same guy who owns the Irish Bar, Paddy O' Flaherty's. By the time we left just before 10 am they were queuing up to get in. I walk past it every night on my way home and people are always waiting to get in. Its not that good and especially when there are so many other choices available. It reminds me of my drinking days in Glasgow, which were few, of course, but those who were around may recall the queues outside some of the pubs in Byres Road. I'm sure Neil will remember if no-one else can. Maybe they still do it of course. Glaswegians are like that. Maybe the people waiting outside Jack's are from Glasgow. Will have to ask them tonight.
Other than that I was at La Policia de la Familia today as usual. No holiday for the kids there. There are lots of teenage boys there this week. Lots of aggression around. Not against me, they all seem to respect me for some reason. Maybe they like me. I had to stop a couple of fights before things got out of hand. Fortunately they accept my interventions and desist. God knows what would happen if they didn't. So I pretend to be fearless, which is not quite the case. And the police are nowhere to be seen.
I've had to be strict with Fernando to allow me time to play with these kids, which he accepts reluctantly. But at least he accepts. We play cards and dominoes and connect 4. It passes the time for them and lets them calm down and talk a little. They all want to be my friend. Which is nice but not easy to keep them all happy. I do my best but there are so many of them. Its hard enough to remember all their names from day to day.
Today I brought one of the boys some underpants as his tracksuit bottoms were split open. Which for a 13 year old with girls in the room is not easy. Needless to say he was delighted. I managed to give them to him without anyone other than F. noticing. He went away to change in the loo and he came back in a smiling boy. Amazing what a difference a small gesture makes.
Chelsea got beat, which serves Mourhinho right considering what he has been saying about our boy Ronaldo. Fergie's response was pur Fergie of course. Which is what you would expect from a Glasgow boy. "What Ronaldo has got are principles, ........... Whereas some people who are educated have no principles, so we're leaving the matter that way."
Big game tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Its on here at 1.30 pm. I've booked my seat in Nortons and cancelled all appointments.
Cienciano took a beating in Mexico, 3-0, just in case anyone is interested. A defeat but not an embarrassment. They are on the way up, though I do wonder how much the altitude here in Cusco helps them along.
Must go. Tarea to do then wee visit to see the bluesmen again all being well.
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